On the way home from SITM, loss of power?
#1
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Car is still driving but a loss of power above 3k. Me thinks it's the flappy. No way to pressure test it. If you rev it past 3 when parked, will it move?
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Just outside of Roanoke, having a bite.
I guess i will just drive her easy and check under the hood more often.
![Frown](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
Just outside of Roanoke, having a bite.
I guess i will just drive her easy and check under the hood more often.
Last edited by Adamant1971; 06-08-2014 at 02:34 PM.
#2
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I doubt the flappy can cause serious power loss. Maybe torque but not serious. Anyway, it should move after 3.5K revs, it should also open and close as you turn on the ignition. If you take off the rubber cap and attach a piece of tape, you can look under the hood from behind the wheel to see if it moves.
Have you tried switching some 53B relays?
Serious power loss above 3K revs sounds more like a bad MAF or LH. Or fuel restriction, or bad fuel, or incorrect timing, or corroded ignition coils.
Luckily you can cruise easily at 2.5K revs.
Have you tried switching some 53B relays?
Serious power loss above 3K revs sounds more like a bad MAF or LH. Or fuel restriction, or bad fuel, or incorrect timing, or corroded ignition coils.
Luckily you can cruise easily at 2.5K revs.
#3
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Maybe the power loss is not as serious as I first felt.
Pretty sure the flappy is not moving, I already had the rubber cap off and revved her up and it did not turn.
I will try the tape, so I can see where the tach is at.
It's still accelerates above 3k, just not with the unusual freight train feel.
Pretty sure the flappy is not moving, I already had the rubber cap off and revved her up and it did not turn.
I will try the tape, so I can see where the tach is at.
It's still accelerates above 3k, just not with the unusual freight train feel.
#5
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Tested with a piece of tape, flappy is not turning. Will carry on towards Pittsburg.
#6
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Tested it again,I just gives a very slight twitch. Will need to test vacuumed lines, and the flappy system at home.
#7
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#8
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how much fuel is in the tank? better to run it at half or more
did you remove the gas cap to check for suction?, leave the cap half a turn loose.
did you look at the tank to see if it is collapsed? check the vent valve adjacent to the dipstick this goes bad the tank will collapse.
leave the cap 1/2 turn loose
did you remove the gas cap to check for suction?, leave the cap half a turn loose.
did you look at the tank to see if it is collapsed? check the vent valve adjacent to the dipstick this goes bad the tank will collapse.
leave the cap 1/2 turn loose
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Timing related is a big potential problem..... huge unmetered air leak is worse at low RPM. Fuel filter blocked is so uncommon...
The cars will run surprisingly well on just 4 cylinders. I would be checking both ignition systems
The cars will run surprisingly well on just 4 cylinders. I would be checking both ignition systems
#13
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Check that the secondary leads from both coils are secure in the distributor caps. If you were recently in the MAF area, verify that the MAF is seated in its boot correctly. Change the fuel pump relay. Verify that the battery voltage is OK (not falling off due to discharge). Verify the connections of the minor positive leads at the battery, clean and tight.
The flappy makes only a very minor drop in power if not activated. It's connected to cannister/stored vacuum, so you should feel real vacuum at the source port on the flappy solenoid with the car idling. Regardless, effect is minor and generally ot a sharp difference you might notice in casual driving.
If one ignition is not working, raw fuel is passed through to the cats. That's a serious risk of fire. Might be coil leads as shared above, arcing from a bad wire, failed transistor driver module on the front apron, or a failing coil, cracked cap.
The symptoms also sound like some that have reported as part of an impending total LH failure. Is yours rebuilt?
The flappy makes only a very minor drop in power if not activated. It's connected to cannister/stored vacuum, so you should feel real vacuum at the source port on the flappy solenoid with the car idling. Regardless, effect is minor and generally ot a sharp difference you might notice in casual driving.
If one ignition is not working, raw fuel is passed through to the cats. That's a serious risk of fire. Might be coil leads as shared above, arcing from a bad wire, failed transistor driver module on the front apron, or a failing coil, cracked cap.
The symptoms also sound like some that have reported as part of an impending total LH failure. Is yours rebuilt?
#14
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It's seems to be running better, just outside of Pittsburg now.
I'm leaning towards it being fuel related. I'm going to stop shortly for the night. I will check the gas cap and the ignition leads when I get to a hotel.
I'm wondering if it could have been some bad gas?
Anyways thanks for the tips on what to look for.
I'm leaning towards it being fuel related. I'm going to stop shortly for the night. I will check the gas cap and the ignition leads when I get to a hotel.
I'm wondering if it could have been some bad gas?
Anyways thanks for the tips on what to look for.
#15
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Check that the secondary leads from both coils are secure in the distributor caps. If you were recently in the MAF area, verify that the MAF is seated in its boot correctly. Change the fuel pump relay. Verify that the battery voltage is OK (not falling off due to discharge). Verify the connections of the minor positive leads at the battery, clean and tight.
The flappy makes only a very minor drop in power if not activated. It's connected to cannister/stored vacuum, so you should feel real vacuum at the source port on the flappy solenoid with the car idling. Regardless, effect is minor and generally ot a sharp difference you might notice in casual driving.
If one ignition is not working, raw fuel is passed through to the cats. That's a serious risk of fire. Might be coil leads as shared above, arcing from a bad wire, failed transistor driver module on the front apron, or a failing coil, cracked cap.
The symptoms also sound like some that have reported as part of an impending total LH failure. Is yours rebuilt?
The flappy makes only a very minor drop in power if not activated. It's connected to cannister/stored vacuum, so you should feel real vacuum at the source port on the flappy solenoid with the car idling. Regardless, effect is minor and generally ot a sharp difference you might notice in casual driving.
If one ignition is not working, raw fuel is passed through to the cats. That's a serious risk of fire. Might be coil leads as shared above, arcing from a bad wire, failed transistor driver module on the front apron, or a failing coil, cracked cap.
The symptoms also sound like some that have reported as part of an impending total LH failure. Is yours rebuilt?