Crumpler

Hey all, I got the itch to pull the proverbial pod this weekend.
Combination of gauge and light issues.
I purchased a "light enhancement kit" on ebay, how wise a purchase remains to be seen. Essentially a mirror kit, after removing old glaze with acetone.
Attachment 837118

Attachment 837119


I'm replacing bulbs first, I may do LED down the road based on results.
We were speculating on the extra switch covered with the factory tape in the guts of the pod. My buddy said Euro thing, which sounds credible, anybody got details?
Attachment 837123

Kit includes mylar tape, to apparently control any light loss on corners of prisms.



The shop dog lost interest pretty quickly, he's only interested in honest HP upgrades...
Attachment 837124

marine928

Crump, I am getting ready to pull my pod next week for led switch out, on a scale of 1-10 how difficult is the removal. ( 10 hard)

Thanks

Marine928

Crumpler

Two or three with Dwayne's walkthrough in hand.
Same old story, most of the work is the cleaning.
Getting enough torque to free 27mm nut on steering wheel without busting anything was the only trick.

Cheers.

Randy V

Dwayne's write-up is the gold standard in tutorials.

One tip is to tape the rubber grommets to the pod - make re-installation much easier!

Crumpler

Anybody used one of these?
I have a aluminum shift gate and some other brushed metal in the interior. So I thought I would give this a shot.
I'm hoping for more light, it does make the gauges stand out, IMO.
Attachment 837301

928Shane

i like it. Cool use of the airpump filter housing!

Wisconsin Joe

As someone said, Dwayne's writeup makes pod removal a 2 or 3, the hardest part is being upside down under the dash.

The taped off switch is for the Euro rear fog light.

NoVector

I did on my 84. I covered it with cf and then added trim rings.

For pod removal, Shocki's 15-min removal thread is pretty good too.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-ok-price.html

Crumpler

I like it, No Vector, looks good with the steering wheel too.


Hey, BTW, I would have to say putting this back together was more frustrating.
Not BLUE HOSE frustrating, but maybe 6-7/10 to line up grommets.
Attachment 837375

I also crumpled my intensive washer switch somehow, I may just put in a toggle switch instead of waiting for parts.

marine928

OK, thanks guys, pic's look great I have printed out Dwayne's and Shocki's procedures, confidence level is high so I will start the pod/ led light replacement next Saturday. I also purchased Ed Scherer's AILD 1 dimmer module and will be installing it as well.

Thanks

Marine928

Crumpler

Ok.
In and done.

Assessment: New bulbs and kit are brighter, but maybe by 30% - 40%.
Good enough to see gauges clearly, but I'm guessing LED would still be brighter.

Bonus: Got a functional voltmeter and gas gauge out of the deal!

Ad0911

There are really excellent LED solutions for the instrument lighting, but it can also be done extremely cheaply. I dumped the so called prismas and glued some translucent white plastic over the lots. Cheap LED strips and a touchdimmer did the magic. See:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...el-lights.html

Read it till the end and see the youtube movie

Alan

Kind of... all cars have one. For ROW cars its the USA Pod reset switch that is taped up - there is a separate small connector for the under/lower pod face mounted reset in ROW cars. For USA cars its the rear foglight switch connector that is taped up (goes bottom left in place of the reset switch). Single pod loom for all models so you just have the one you need connected, some are confused to see it taped up and think a PO did it....but you are right it's factory tape.

Alan

The Fixer

Dave looks fantastic!, NoVector, your's also looks great!

Dave, i have found the only difficult task re-installing is the passenger side
hardware with L shaped cast alum spacer.

I hold this assembly together with a small soft rubber O ring placed over the upper bolt threads which crushes when you tighten this bolt. Makes it easy.

I wish i knew i would have sent you pics.

Glad to hear the gauges are functional and hopefully it will be in a while.

Matt

Crumpler

Yes!
That's exactly what slowed me down Matt.
I had to line up the L shaped piece by working through the hazard switch hole with a pair of forceps.

All gauges operational, except oil pressure... stays pegged at all times except when running warm and clutch pedal down -- then I get great numbers.
I have assumed extra resistance somewhere, but I have replaced sender and R/R gauge as above.

RS looks awesome BTW.

I also took the time to make a dash and pod cover with black vinyl.

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