taba2by

Thanks for the suggestions! Attached are pictures of the engine, distributor, 14 pin connector CE panel and a mystery connection that has nothing plugged in.

Mrmerlin

first clue somethings need to be investigated ,
you have too many fuses installed.

get the fuse panel chart,
print it off and verify you have the correct part number relay and the correct fuse in the correct positions.

use some Deoxit spray for coating the CE panel,
this will enhance the connectivity,

see the thread about Deoxit
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ghlight=deoxit

dont worry about that connector its not connected


fuse chart here
www.928gt.com

James Bailey

Good call Stan, especially since he is not the first one in there and it has never run for him.....God only knows what was "fixed"

taba2by

Here are a few more updates from the lunch hour:

I ran a wire from 12V jump port to 15(+) on coil, still no spark
I DO have 12V from 15(+) on coil
I DO have 12V from right side jump post
I have 570 ohm between 31d and 7 on disconnected ignition control plug

I locked and unlocked the doors with the security key, however, I am going to try to jumper 4-6 on Z

If the ignition switch is bad would I see the crank but no spark issue I have?

Attached are some pictures of the starter, I need to degrease tonight but the oil must be shielding the wire because the starter does engage and motor cranks.

Mrmerlin

before you go chasing all of these different things,
lets back up and get the fuses and relays sorted out.

then clean the battery terminals and the grounds,
then clean the starter .

NOTE replacing lots of parts without knowing whats causing the issue is going to get expensive and quite possibly bear no fruit.

work in a methodical manner and you will find out why the engine wont run,
we will help you just pay attention to what has been posted.

danglerb

Are you sure there is any oil left INSIDE the motor?

I would not be so hot for the jumpering, those things do have wires on them that go back to other circuits you might be making hot by doing the jumper.

James Bailey

I ran the old very brown 1980 on a jumper on a very hot day stuck on the 91 fwy....after about 30 minutes the coil erupted blew molten tar all over the engine bay....so I grabbed my spare coil jumpered it and drove another 30 minutes to my daughters, then back home later that night all on the jumper
I then fixed the bad resistor with new Mercedes units....so I do not worry much about any collateral issues as this was years ago !!

taba2by

Stan, according to the service manual, I should not have relay IV, fuse 7 or fuse 13 populated. I pulled the panel again for more testing and here are the results with updated photo:

Position 30 at relay IV(listed as not used but there was a relay) and relay XVI are connected on the back of the CE and test continuous. On the bottom of the CE where the colored plugs connect , plug letter V pin 4 connects to position 30 on relay XVI and test continuous. I do not get continuity between 30 (any primary CE power) to either relay IV or XVI position 30 which I thought were hot. Am I missing something? (red lines test good, yellow lines do not).

Is there a chance the Weissach Edition is different than a regular 1982? I did some looking into the number on my CE panel and it is correct for for a 1982.

James Bailey

Weisach is just a trim and luggage package.....like a Bill Blass Lincoln Continental or a Levi Straus jeep with denim seat covers.... minor details only.

Mrmerlin

someone has been messing with your CE panel.

It would be wise to restore the correct relays to the original positions, then check the continuity,

this happens frequently when a relay comes out then goes into the wrong slot ,
then the car wont run ,
then its parked,
then its sold,
then you buy it and start jumpering relays.

When the relays are not in the correct positions to start with. so like I said restore the CE panel to factory config first

karl ruiter

I think the advice about restoring the CE panel to the correct configuration is good. However, also, regarding the ignitions switch hot comes in on terminal 30 and the starter is energized on terminal 50 and the CDI box is energized by terminal 15. So the starter and the CDI signals are actually going through separate sets of contacts in the ignition switch and one could work but not the other. Lots of stuff is on terminal 15, but something pretty simple is the backup lights. If you turn the key on and but the tranny in R and the back up lights come on you know your ignition switch is good as far as terminal 15 goes. If they don't it might also be the reverse switch or bulbs or wiring, but if they work you know your good as far as the ignition switch.

taba2by

Stan, I pulled the CE panel again, pulled all fuses and relays. I found 2 bad (but making contact) female spade connectors for accessories on the back I replaced. I installed the correct fuses and tested and installed the correct relays in their corresponding positions. I reinstalled the CE panel and still no spark. When turning the key to on I do get 12.5V to 30 on XIV, XVI and XVII, engine does crank...still no spark.

Thanks for the suggestion on restoring the CE panel, I found things that needed to be repaired and am familiar with the panel and its functions.