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928 Weissach in Iowa

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Old 04-13-2014, 10:54 PM
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taba2by
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Default 928 Weissach in Iowa

Hello Rennlisters! I've been reading, deciphering and working on my Weissach for several months and have come to a point where assistance and input would be greatly appreciated.

My name is Layth, live in Des Moines Iowa and am working on a 928 Weissach Edition with no spark. I have replaced the FI and FP relays with OEM, replaced the green wire, spent hours cleaning every ground (over "O" and "H", main and pass valve cover). I cleaned the 14 point connector. I tested and cleaned the ballast resistors, replaced the coil and ordered a spare CDI and installed... Car cranks, has good compression, just no spark. I am unable to tell from reading the numerous posts if a good fuel pump is required for spark, I do have new one, just haven't installed yet.

Aside from what I have listed, what other weak points are there for no spark conditions? Fingers crossed its not the ECU.

I am an IT professional by trade, but cars are my passion. I am able to perform board level repairs on just about anything, replace iPad/iPod/iPhone screens...I have several Jags (XJS, XJR and S-Type R) and can and have done just about everything. This Porsche really has me stumped.

If you have any ideas or suggestions I would be extremely appreciative Better yet, if there is an experienced Rennslister here in Des Moines willing and able to help, dinner is on me!
Old 04-13-2014, 11:31 PM
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jeff spahn
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Hey, once you get that baby running be sure to bring it to Dubuque for Sharks on the Mississippi in July. There's a sticky at the top of the 928 forum about it. We'd love to have more Iowa sharks there.
Old 04-14-2014, 02:45 AM
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It would be a good idea to take pictures of the CE panel and the under hood and starter and post them,
since your a member you can do this.

Also at the top of the page go to user CP click on edit signature then add in the details of your car the year model and trans type this makes the info come up on every post you make,
thanks
Old 04-14-2014, 03:11 PM
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karl ruiter
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I think in normally works the other way, in that the system detects that the engine is running via the ignition system and if it is not it cuts out the fuel pump. How about pulling the CDI box and checking that the signals necessary (power, ground at least) are all there. From where you are it sounds like a bad connection at or in the CE panel, a broken wire, or (perhaps) the ignition switch. Not quite sure all the ways the ignition switch can fail, but I think this might be one of them.
Old 04-14-2014, 03:56 PM
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James Bailey
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Have YOU ever seen this car run ????
Old 04-14-2014, 03:58 PM
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Pictures please...
Old 04-14-2014, 04:09 PM
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try" search" for green wire
Old 04-14-2014, 04:14 PM
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James Bailey
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As a test you can directly jumper the coil small plus term from the jump start post feeding it a full 12v but only for a short time as it will boil the oil in the coil after a few minutes.... The coil is powered by power from just one of the resistor when cranking then switches to flowing through both for the normal run position. The ignition switches fail in several ways and might be part of your problem.
Also worth mentioning that the factory alarm or any add on alarms can cause you grief. My wife's 79 unknown to us if you locked the passenger door armed the alarm and the car would never start until you unlocked the passenger door because the drivers lock was not functioning.....
Old 04-16-2014, 02:08 AM
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Unfortunately no and I bought it not running (it's a genetic defect).
Old 04-16-2014, 02:09 AM
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Originally Posted by terry gt
try" search" for green wire
1st thing I did was buy a new Hall effect sensor and replace.
Old 04-16-2014, 02:14 AM
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Originally Posted by James Bailey
As a test you can directly jumper the coil small plus term from the jump start post feeding it a full 12v but only for a short time as it will boil the oil in the coil after a few minutes.... The coil is powered by power from just one of the resistor when cranking then switches to flowing through both for the normal run position. The ignition switches fail in several ways and might be part of your problem.
Also worth mentioning that the factory alarm or any add on alarms can cause you grief. My wife's 79 unknown to us if you locked the passenger door armed the alarm and the car would never start until you unlocked the passenger door because the drivers lock was not functioning.....
I believe I just read something about bypassing the alarm with a jumper on Z (?) on the CE. My power locks do work with the key, however great suggestion and I will try to unlock both doors with the key.
Old 04-16-2014, 02:16 AM
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Originally Posted by taba2by
1st thing I did was buy a new Hall effect sensor and replace.
Please tell us who you bought a Hall Sensor from for this 1982 car, and where did you install it?
Old 04-16-2014, 02:17 AM
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Originally Posted by James Bailey
As a test you can directly jumper the coil small plus term from the jump start post feeding it a full 12v but only for a short time as it will boil the oil in the coil after a few minutes.... The coil is powered by power from just one of the resistor when cranking then switches to flowing through both for the normal run position. The ignition switches fail in several ways and might be part of your problem.
Also worth mentioning that the factory alarm or any add on alarms can cause you grief. My wife's 79 unknown to us if you locked the passenger door armed the alarm and the car would never start until you unlocked the passenger door because the drivers lock was not functioning.....
So I can perform a quick test for spark at the coil by running a lead from the passenger side + terminal by the 14 pin connector directly to 15 (+) on the coil? I think this May be the test solution I was looking for!

If it does fire what path will this take down?
If it does not fire what path will this take me down?

Last edited by taba2by; 04-16-2014 at 02:29 AM. Reason: Additional question
Old 04-16-2014, 02:24 AM
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Originally Posted by SeanR
Please tell us who you bought a Hall Sensor from for this 1982 car, and where did you install it?
Green wire purchased from www.porscheoem.com before I knew about 928srus.com.

I removed the black spacer and installed under the plate on the dist to the connector an ear the 14 pin connection.
Old 04-16-2014, 02:41 AM
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I wanted to thank all of you for your input. I am so impressed with the willingness and helpfulness of this forum and it's members!

Interesting note with working on the CE panel...I'm smart enough to know how to test a fuse, however the devil is in the details. I found several fuses that looked good, however they had so much oxidation (FP really bad) that there was no continuity! After removing the CE panel I tested each fuse position with my multimeter as well as 30 on both FI and FP relays. There was 1 female spade connector on the back that was broken, this was fixed. Everything cleaned, repaired and reinstalled...still no spark at coil.


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