Mrmerlin

LOL Sean..

Now we know, the fun starts when you pull the block drains

Mongo

Best of luck to you man! I was in your shoes before with a 944 motor in 2005. Be prepared for a great learning experience!

I hope to learn about mine too this way when the time comes.

69gaugeman

You can buy the snap on torque wrench HERE.

MUCH cheaper than snap on and made by the same company. And from everything I read all the same functionality. I was gobsmacked when I used one. It was amazing. I have always used the little degree wheels that required a stop arm. This would have been worth the extra couple of hundred dollars over a standard wrench.

White Lightnin'

Oh ****... just about blew my drink out my nose!

1989porsche928

Update, I will finish taking apart the engine tomorrow, I just got back from a vacation and got tools in. I am going to take the engine off the stand to remove the flywheel. The weather is finally decent in NY. I'll post some more pictures when it is done. In a cylinder or two their is a scratch so I have to figure out if I can bore it out or plate it.

jcorenman

Or nothing, it all depends on the nature of the scratch. Post some pic's and some comments on the scratches-- Can you feel them? Do they "catch" a fingernail? Is there any discernible ridge at the top of the bore (other than carbon/color)?
I'm no expert but there are experts here, and small/harmless hairline scratches are not uncommon.

The block is Alusil, Reynolds 490 high silicon aluminum alloy. It cannot be honed in the conventional sense, but can bored 0.5mm oversize and then polished with special compound and procedures, then fitted with oversized factory pistons ($300-400/ea). Or bored and Nikasil'ed (nickel-plated) with new pistons (custom but conventional), or bored and stroked with new pistons, rods and crank.

Good search terms here are Alusil, Reynolds, Nikasil, stroker, wife left me, for sale/ran when parked, etc.

It's a slippery slope, and depending on goals and budget, it is a slope that you may very much want to stay on the top of.

Some cautions: Don't touch the cylinder walls with anything other than the prescribed polish, or some chemicals. No blades, no scrapers, no abrasives, no Scotchbrite nor anything like that. The surface is hard, but brittle-- basically a layer of microscopic silicon particles embedded in (soft) aluminum, with a surface much harder than the ferrous (iron) piston coating but the aluminum substrate is easily gouged by sharp tools or abrasive grit.
Permatex gasket remover and a rag is rumored to be quite effective at removing carbon, and stains don't matter. Close your eyes, use your fingers.

Cheers, Jim

Tony

Get a good air wrench, good sockets/etc and F' it..just take it apart. The only thing i followed when i did mine was the prescribed pattern and sequence of the bolts that hold the block halves together as well as the cam shaft bolts/caps...loosened them in the opposite sequence.
Have the special tool or make one to hold the cams in place when you loosen the caps.

also..biggest thing is to not scratch/damage the cyl walls, the surfaces that the bearings touch or the cams ride in

i also labeled the the rods and cam caps and where they came from...placed all the lifters in crushable foam in the manner that they were postioned in the heads...ie same lifter will go back in same bore.....same with valves.

they come apart very easily and "cleanly"....its the assembly that takes real care and diligence.

Mine is still in parts in the attic....after...oh...10years now?

One of these days...

atb

Are you referring to the starter mount?
This is true.
Whatever you do, don't forget to reinstall this before you put the flywheel back on. No fun discovering it's off after the engine is back in the car.

atb

And do your guitar amps go to "11"?

1989porsche928

High guys, have not logged on in while I was busy at work and went to visit my family. Anyways I finally got the engine taken apart. I removed the pistons/rods, crankshaft, flywheel. I did not clean the pistons and rods yet. Does any one know if the pistons are connected to the rods by getting pressed in or a ring? anyways here are some pictures.

Mrmerlin

the wrist pins are held in with circular spring clips remove one and the pin will push out.

to clean the pistons put them in full strength simple green ,
let them soak for a few hours,
then use a tooth brush to scrub off the carbon,
you can use a portion of a ring to clean the land be careful not to scratch the coating it chromium and prevents the piston from seizing.

wash the cleaned pistons in car soap and hot water after the simple green.

NOTE dont be temped to use a scotchbrite pad to scrub the piston it will damage it

James Bailey

Note that connecting rod nuts are one time use...and virtually all the used blocks I have ever seen will show a couple scratches but unless really deep seem to not be much of an issue....where as boring or plating quickly becomes a major project usually ending up with....might as well build a stroker All good fun !

1989porsche928

what tool combination can I use to deglaze the cylinders? I heard it is a diamond stone, do I only use one grit?

Rob Edwards

About 8 posts ago it was suggested not to use _anything_ on the bores. That's still true.

1989porsche928

so the cylinders on a 928 engine don't get deglazed?