taking apart s4 engine
#77
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You want a 14mm 12-point socket for the rod cap bolts
RE: splitting the block, if you got both of the starter mount bracket bolts out, then the only thing holding the halves together is old loctite. There is one sleeve in the block around the M12 stud hole closest to the starter mount, I guess you need to make sure you're lifting straight up in that area?
Ignore the mid-block carnage, you can see the sleeve in question below, at far right:
'Nuther view, different block:
RE: splitting the block, if you got both of the starter mount bracket bolts out, then the only thing holding the halves together is old loctite. There is one sleeve in the block around the M12 stud hole closest to the starter mount, I guess you need to make sure you're lifting straight up in that area?
Ignore the mid-block carnage, you can see the sleeve in question below, at far right:
'Nuther view, different block:
#78
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Found the issue with splitting the block... I see now the starter bracket has to come off first since it spans the two sections of the block. Hopefully I can find the tool to get the flywheel off. This the problem with having a PC in the garage, too easy to post questions before you've stared at it long enough!
#79
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You need a 12 mm triple-square/cheesehead/XZN socket for the flywheel bolts. Pep Boys/O-Reilly/Autozone usually have a cheapo set of 6/8/10/12 mm. You can cut down the 12 mm one in order to get at the bolts with the engine on the stand.
#81
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"a 12 mm triple-square/cheesehead/XZN socket for the flywheel bolts. ", no affiliation, i bought one to fit a 1/2" impact gun from sears. I think it was the greatneck or some brand they sell online. When I went to use my friends impact gun his compressor went bad probably put out 20psi. but i soaked the bolts in two different types of penetrating oil over a week or two span and I was able to break the torque with my hands. they look like the strip easy I would not reuse them myself.