Were the heads off when you got it ??

 

OOPss missed that WSM reference.......

BUT further reading of the WSM will provide assembly instructions for the block,
thus disassemble can be figured from that

 

Mrmerlin, I have the WSM and Jime Morhouse CDs. I really can't find in the WSM were it tells you the order to take the engine apart. James the heads were off when I got it

 

Rods and Pistons out first.
Then separate the Block Halves.

 

I am in the final stages of putting my 89 engine together. One problem that I am having is figuring out how the harness route through out the block. I must have connected/unconnected, bolted/unbolted, fastened/unfastened various parts, bolts, wites at least a dozen times or more trying to piece together the connections. I tried to find the routing on the WSMs but I couldn t find anything. Ended up taking pics of Rod's (69Gaugeman) engine to help out. The vac hoses also were a treat because even though they tell you where to connect, the routing is not all that intuitive. I took the engine out 2 years ago and didn't take any photos of where they go. When the engine is complete and ready to go in, I will take video and photos so when I build my second engine, I don't have to spend hours doing it over and over again. At least I have become very intimate with my engine :/.

 

Did you get the heads with it ?? intake etc. or just the short block assembly ?

 

James - I bought just the short block assembly. My current 89 has '89 cylinder heads and intake manifold but not a S4 short block. So I decided to buy a short block and rebuild it. possibly putting my '89 heads and intake manifold on it.

 

The marking in the green circle looks like factory machining, but as Jim suggested above check the crankshaft end-play before disassembly. That will tell you if the thrust-bearing is OK or not. (If not, the block may still be OK, but knowledge is a wonderful thing).

The rod nuts are circled, 8 rods x 2 nuts each = 16 of them. Push each rod and piston out as you go, mark which hole they came out of, and don't drop them.

The two purple-circled bolts outside the crankcase are only the start.. all the other nuts that you can see inside the crankcase need to come off also-- those are studs that go through the girdle (lower block) and into the upper block.

The only thing that has to come of the front is to unbolt the oil pump. I assume most everything else is already off, to remove the heads-- right?

 

O.P. You clearly have insufficient knowledge, step back from the toolbox and engine stand.

Now,do a little research on "rebuilding" Porsche 928 engines.....

See, It isn't done.....

Carefully button up what you have and leave it alone.

What is the problem with your current engine?

 

Roy - the engine in the car has a little oil leak, nothing big, nothing that I need to remove the engine. I am going to take apart this engine and rebuild it because I want to learn how to take apart / rebuild 928 engines.

 

Not trying to be snide, crass, or condescending but the WSM has all the info you need to dis-assemble the engine. If the WSM doesn't provide you enough detail to do the dis-assembly then stop and do some more reading online or buy a Haynes brand manual on how to build an engine and read that first. Taking the engine apart is the simple part of this task. Cleaning, inspecting, tolerancing, and preparing everything before re-assembly along with the re-assembly itself is where those on here with experience building these engines (not me) can provide guidance and tips for success.

Again, not trying to bust your chops just hoping to help you avoid disaster, disappointment, and ruined engine parts.

Mike

 

If you are having problems at this point ... this will not end well

 

Jeez guys, what's wrong with taking a motor apart? Sure, it's a lot harder to put it back together, but that job is made much easier by having taken it apart. We all started somewhere, and I can't think of a better way to start than by disassembling a spare $250 block.

OP, Keep asking questions, take lots of pictures for future reference (i.e. reassembly), get a felt pen and a bunch of plastic bags for small parts, and if you are not sure of something then ask questions.

A couple of hints:

1) As mentioned, don't touch the cylinder bores with anything other than a clean rag. The block is silicon/aluminum alloy with specially prepared bores to expose a hard silicon surface. It is hard but thin, and easily scratched by errant tools. Don't let your tools become errant.

2) Aluminum is soft. When cleaning, be careful not to gouge or scratch the gasket surfaces. You will need to get old sealer off of some surfaces, resist the urge to get out the old paint-scraper. Permatex gasket remover is great (also for cleaning carbon off pistons) and plastic scrapers are safe. There are other techniques but you will need to find a Zen Master to teach you.

3) Pistons, rods, pins, all that stuff has to go back into the same place it came out of. You will need to number everything (felt pen, not pencil) and take notes and pictures. And after you clean each part, put the number back on.

OK, that's three. Knowing how to count is important.

Cheers, Jim

 

Well said Jim, he WILL learn how to take one apart !! and see what is really in there. And many people have rebuilt their own 928 engines.

 

I'm with Jim. Although I cannot help with the engine tear down, I don't think fear of failure is a good reason not to try this.
What is the downside here? It's a spare. Even if he loses the $250, he may learn a lot in the process.
Upside, he learns a lot more than many of us may ever know about our engines.
I say, go man go!