Hi

I'm going to be taking my door panels off this weekend and while I'm in there I'd like to replace the door stops that are shot!

I've searched and not been able to find a procedure for this in the forum.

Anybody got one with pics?

While I'm in there I'll be replacing window guides (scratching the hell out of my window tint), and putting in butyl sound deadener.

Thanks
Brian

 

Also look at replacing the window guides if you have any play in the window.
The replacement of those parts are fairly straight forward.

 

when your putting the door back together make sure you have lubricated the door latch mechanism,
this will assist in preventing early failure of the door handle mechanism.

I like to use Weldwoood brush on cement in the red can found at Home Depot,
I also use a clear shower curtain found at the dollar store for the vapor barrier ,
make the water drip panels first then cover the whole door.
The cement adheres well to the plastic

 

The door stop is simple to replace and that may be the reason you cannot find a tutorial. There are 4 screws. The ones buried in the door are allen (hex head) screws. Probably 6mm (from memory). The screws on my door jamb were triple-square (XZN) headed. These will require a special socket. For example: ( )

 

^^^^^ NOTE if your going to remove the triple square bolts from the jamb anchor plate,
First put a soldering iron into the bolt head for a few mins to heat the bolt,
the locktite used can cause the head of the bolt to shear off or strip the head

 

From memory, I removed the 'hinge pin' bolt rather than pulling the two bolts that go into the door jamb. No risk of stripping the heads or popping the threaded inserts loose in the jamb.

I've used Stan's method with the contact cement to hold the water shield plastic pieces in, and also used strip-caulk. That's the bodyshop stuff used between fenders and body shell for instance, and in the HVAC sections, like where the fresh-air fan and door mount to the cowl. A thin 'rope' (maybe 1/4" dia) of that stuff goes on the door near the edge of where the plastic will go, and it gets squeezed under the plastic to adhere and seal. This gives a waterproof seal, but the plastic can be easily removed and replaced later if more access is needed, without ripping the plastic. If you use the plastic shower-curtain that Stan recommends, it's way tougher and longer-lasting than most any common plastic sheeting.

If you want to have a field-day in the door, pull the motor regulator and replace the dried-out grease in the drive with new synthetic grease. Replace the guides so the window doesn't rattle. Lubricate the latch and handle linkage, less strain will lessen the chance of breaking the tabs on the handles. Lots of good WYAIT PM stuff to do in the doors if you have the time.

 

Wish I'd had some of this advice 8 hours ago.

The 2 bolts into the door jamb were a complete nightmare.

There's some info here: http://jenniskens.livedsl.nl/Technic...8/MyTip853.htm

 

Glyn--

The threaded inserts are sort of tacked in, and they have loctite on the bolt threads. Pretty tough to get them out of a car that has any corrosion possibilites. The 'pin' in the hinge comes out, and goes back in with the new arm and a lttle grease. IIRC, the screws for the door end of the arm are accessible by pulling just the plastic airduct piece out of the leading edge of the door card. It's been a while and my memory of 'non-problem for me' services is not that sharp. Things that bit me, I seem to better remember the bite marks.

"NutSerts", and "RivNuts" are blind-hole threaded inserts that work a lot like pop-rivets, but without the 'pop'. Instead of a sacrificial pin, they are set by pulling on a bolt through the threaded wedge/cone section, drawing it in and flaring the sleeve to hold it snug in the opening. The setting tools are interesting. There are some DIY hacks, but the genuine tool works quite well and always sets the insert correctly with the right flanged face on top.

 

Thanks for the info.

I assume the locktite was the problem. Maybe the soldering iron trick could have saved me some of the aggravation.

Turns out my neighbour has the kit for the threaded inserts so I'll try that tomorrow.

 

Brian,

This might be useful.

 

bump.
search is king..

thanks for the info. Im in the process of gutting the door to be removed for painting....this was the last step. i dont have those bits And like everything else now, im looking at replacing the door catch while its all out.


edit...actually i did have those bits, So now it's just 6 hex head bolts and the doors can come off. Painters can handle that. Doors are gutted..,..glass...motor and assembly...door latch..lock..mirrors..

 

This is the procedure I found on jenniskens site which I followed installing door stays 10 years ago. They've been great since, with each door having three distinct detent positions on opening.

https://jenniskens.livedsl.nl/Techni...2/MyTip258.htm

I found an extension mirror really handy for eyeing the bolts in the door as you can't get your head round there! Also this procedure just takes out the single 5mm Allen hinge bolt on car frame, not the anchor plate.

 

its amazing how easy things can be when the dash is out and the hood is off.