Turning flywheel clockwise
Okay, so I just read that little bit of advise after having replaced my torque tube and definitly turned the flywheel in both directions -screwdriver in flywheel gear teeth- while replacing TT. Haven't yet started the beast since having done the job, so what little problem have I caused or is there something I can do to right the wrong before I crank it over.
Live and learn! So far I'm living and saving the learn'n for later!
Live and learn! So far I'm living and saving the learn'n for later!
If you are that worried take the cam covers off and turn the crank the right way to align the crank to 0 /T and check that the cam sprockets line up with there marks you may have to turn it twice To align then. If your T belt is worn you could have jump timing.
Hi Deb,
Did you get a chance to check for cat furballs yet? When I had my rear muffler off for TT service, I found bits of material that looked like wood that had rotted crossed with radiator fins. Others have found the cat furballs.
Did you get a chance to check for cat furballs yet? When I had my rear muffler off for TT service, I found bits of material that looked like wood that had rotted crossed with radiator fins. Others have found the cat furballs.
Hey Thom, not yet, I spent the day getting the new TT installed, finally installed it tranny end first because I couldn't get the tranny to slide back far enough to go with the clutch end first -left the tranny and clutch in place>
After checking the timing belt tomorrow I'll do a fur ball check. What I did find when checking the air intake filter was pieces of a plastic bag -UNDER the filter, can't figure how they got there?
After checking the timing belt tomorrow I'll do a fur ball check. What I did find when checking the air intake filter was pieces of a plastic bag -UNDER the filter, can't figure how they got there?
(1) How does one turn the engine (clockwise of course) with out using the flywheel? (2) How do I know when cyl. #1 is TDC?
On the MGB I just watch the rocker arms.
On the MGB I just watch the rocker arms.
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Use the bolt that holds the harmonic balancer in place (front of the crankshaft). It requires a 27 mm socket and a long bar.
You'll find TDC by
a. observing the timing mark on the harmonic balancer (however that will come around on the exhaust stroke too).
b. pull the distributor cap and look for the rotor crossing the number 1 spark plug. This ensures you're on the compression stroke of number one.
You'll find TDC by
a. observing the timing mark on the harmonic balancer (however that will come around on the exhaust stroke too).
b. pull the distributor cap and look for the rotor crossing the number 1 spark plug. This ensures you're on the compression stroke of number one.
Get a 27mm socket and a long ratchet or torque wrench. Put the socket on the nut at the radiator end of the pulleys and crank it clockwise. You can see the timing marks on the harmonic balancer just like you're checking the timing. At TDC your cam pulleys should have their timing marks (notches) lined up with the mark on the cam tower. Remember, it takes two turns of the crank to turn the cams once so if you don't see the cams lined up don't freak, just turn the crank once more.
Hi Deb,
Who knows what evil lurks in the hearts of previous owners.
I do work the filter cover a bit to make darned sure that it seats snugly. It is a feel thing. The rear of the cover can’t be seen. You can slide and fiddle with the filter and cover to feel it seal. Then, clamp the straps. I just do it as a normal and expected operation.
Sounds like you are making really good progress on the TT. To turn the engine use: Socket for front main pulley - 27mm or 1 1/16”, 2” extension for pulley socket, ratchet. I know this might be tough if you are on a creeper beneath the transmission.
Please do check for furballs. I am really curious to hear what you find. Plus, they can cause your car to shut down.
Who knows what evil lurks in the hearts of previous owners.
I do work the filter cover a bit to make darned sure that it seats snugly. It is a feel thing. The rear of the cover can’t be seen. You can slide and fiddle with the filter and cover to feel it seal. Then, clamp the straps. I just do it as a normal and expected operation.
Sounds like you are making really good progress on the TT. To turn the engine use: Socket for front main pulley - 27mm or 1 1/16”, 2” extension for pulley socket, ratchet. I know this might be tough if you are on a creeper beneath the transmission.
Please do check for furballs. I am really curious to hear what you find. Plus, they can cause your car to shut down.
Ernest, do you figure that you can really damage the belt?? or is it just that because of the way the tensioner works, turning the engine backward might allow the belt to go slack enough to jump a tooth or two??
Brian,
I THINK the idea is that if the tensioner is not loaded in the right direction the belt could kink and get damaged as well as skip a few teeth. I've never figured out how that would happen.
I THINK the idea is that if the tensioner is not loaded in the right direction the belt could kink and get damaged as well as skip a few teeth. I've never figured out how that would happen.
Something I read (factory manual?) says you might damage the tensioner. I've had the whole system(including the tensoner) completly down to component bits and I sure don't see how anything might be damaged. Also I have turned mine backwards quite often and never noticed any damage. The only thing I can think of is that you might loosen the big pully bolt on the crankshaft. My uncle had that come loose on his new Benz (it was loose from the factory). It ripped the keyway out of the crank. Not an experience that I would highly recommend.
DEB, I guess we are on for this coming weekend. There is a good chance that I will bring the 928 if I can figure out a way to load my replacement mover deck into the car without destroying it. If not I will bring the F-150 without the bike this time!!!
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About the only potential damage I can think of from turning the engine backwards is the POSSIBILTY that the cup shaped bimetallic washers (whose job is to relax when hot to loosen the belt as the camshafts move away from the crankshaft as the block gets hot ) in the tensioner would get smashed . The tensioner is designed to pick up the slack on the loose side of the timing belt BUT not to endure all the pressure of the force needed to turn the cam shafts/ compress the valve springs . I do not see any way that the belt would be damaged or the cam timing lost by turning the engine backwards . IF the cup shaped washers were smashed flat the belt MIGHT be too tight when the engine gas hot .....this MIGHT break the nose off the driverside camshaft ......


