FLYVMO

Looking great Evren!

How thick is that insulation material? Don't forget to locate all the bolt and screw holes on the interior panels...and punch a hole through the sound dampener before you forget where all the holes are...it is a pain in the rear to do it after the fact (don't ask me how I know). I used a round leather punch for it.

Great job!
Carl

LFA

Carl Hi,
Nice to hear from you. The Focal insulation is 6 or 7 mm thick, that is around 0.28 inches. It has 3 layers, rubber ,aluminum sheet and foam. Thanks for your advice, I will take care of the bolt and screw holes, I have an untouched reference car in my garage to check everything while working on these two cars.
I have one question for you. Some of my parts are now media blasted and I received a few today. For the aluminum ones, did you painted them with any paint, used clear coat or didn't do anything after media blasting?
Thanks,
Evren

FLYVMO

Evren,

I blasted mine with walnut shell, and then painted them with high temperature (500F) aluminum colored paint. I tried both Dupli-color and VHT. VHT seems a bit tougher than Dupli-color. For best results they recommend a heat lamp to get the surface temperature to 250F for full cure. I have not used the heat lamp yet but it seems to hold up well. I did clear coat them with the same manufacturer clear and it turns out nice, it is a satin gloss, so not too shiny. I can't say how well it will hold up to scratches and dings in the long run. And I don't think I would put any parts with rubber bushings near a heat lamp or oven...not sure when they will start to melt.

Thanks for the info on the Focal insulation. Never seen that one before.

Cheers!
Carl

LFA

Thanks Carl,
The original parts I guess do not have any coating on top, or do they? I was thinking not putting any paint or clear coat. Aluminum parts will in time have an oxide layer on top but I guess the steel parts of some of these arms definitely need some sort of paint or coating. I will not change any of the rubber or bushings on the front and rear arms. Have you changed anything on yours?

Are you planning any brake upgrade?. I will have 17'' GTS wheels and trying to find out what I can fit in these wheel.
Thanks,
Evren

tv

I think you will find some answers and inspiration in this thread --- https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...uspension.html --- The work shown there and in the link set the standard for what goes underneath a 928 imo. see post 37

atb

Isn't the critical question that everyone one is really wondering about is "Does Evren's wife have a sister?"

FLYVMO

Hi Evren,

I will be using GTS front brakes and 993 rears with a 33 bar bias valve. The GTS brakes will give you plenty of stopping power, and changing the brake bias works wonders too. Some people run 45 bar (and even 55 bar) bias valves, but I think the 55 bar valve is said to be too much for street driving. I really liked the change from the stock 18 bar to the 33 bar bias valve.

Cheers!
Carl

The Fixer

+1

There IS an economy in doing this, (both at once) not a Henry Ford economy, but one none the less.

Is there a specific reason you're doing both?

You got that right.

LFA

Thanks, that is very interesting, looks like sky is the limit

LFA

This is a good comment, when I bought the first car last year in June it was a hobby, now I have 5 and it is a full venture both technically and financially We all know that there is no return without any risk. There are 8 of these late model 928s( 1987+) here; only 2 of them are on the road( one in a private classic car museum) and I own 5 of them

LFA

Thanks Carl,
I have heard of the GTS rotor and calipers, but I need to source them from Germany. Here it is much easy to find used 911 rotors and calipers, that is why I was heading that route.