Bump for Mark.

 

I hadn't said before, but what Alan did to solve the problem with the HVAC connections on the side of the multi position switch pretty much solved that last piece of development. The last thing I did in that regard was to obtain some 8 pin female Porsche 928 connectors and take the 90 degree female connectors out with the short pieces of wire still affixed. I think there is room enough between the console and the switch to use these rather than solder to the shortened posts as Alan has so artfully done.

 

Spring kind of caught me with my pants down, figuratively speaking. I have a few properties tied up in the administration of some Probate Estates I am handling and they all seemed to need some serious attention. I would rather be able to work on these creative projects here in my shop, but I have had to spend several of my weekends and evenings with the properties. I finally got one of them listed this last week and hope to get another listed soon, so maybe by this fall I'll have more time to be creative.

In spite of that, however, I suddenly find myself with two actual Flush Console Conversions in my shop for a couple of our 928 guys. There is a twist in this however in that they both have found an interesting and cool looking Double DIN Automobile PC computer, a carputer as it were, to incorporate rather than the Nav/Stereo units I have been designing around.

The only glitch that puts in the program is that even though they are classed as Double DIN, they have a protrusion along the bottom of the front that is outside the double DIN measurements. That causes me to have to move the HVAC and AC/Warning panels down a bit. At first I didn't think this was going to work since there is no more room in the upper insert to move anything down; but it finally occurred to me that since I have already moved the two panels in question down and eliminated the bottom of the the upper insert, I can simply move them down a bit more and into the top rim of the lower insert. That has the advantage of even further hiding the joint between the inserts. It has the disadvantage of requiring me to make some more tooling to facilitate the cutouts necessary for the move.

Contrary to popular demand, or objection, both of these projects involve the guys having had the PC Units drop shipped to me and then sending me their consoles and other necessary items so I can do the complete conversions here. In the final analysis and given the complexity of finishing this conversion up on an individual basis, I think it is going to turn out to be the only effective way to get this conversion into anyone's 928.

The Carputer is by E3.1/0. You can probably google it.

 

Jerry

I tried searching for the above carputer but came up short.

Do you have an pics of the unit you can post?

Also you may have stated before, but what is the cost of having you doing this flush conversion?

Thx

 

 

Thanks W.E.P

Jerry didn't quite have the model # correct.

Looks pretty cool...Although I wouldn't use the internal amplifier and there's only one set of RCA outputs.

Seems a little meager on the audio end, but I'm sure sound cards and such could be installed.

 

,

I am charging $1000 for the conversion at my place including some usual console restoration and black leather. For the five speed conversion I expect to use your original shifter handle and boot modifying the boot to work with my design of lower insert. For the auto conversion I will include my design of a shifter boot. For the auto conversion I will not be including the gear position lite system until later and then it will be extra. Final installation in your car and all the wiring will be your job. Any other color of leather may be extra if available; or I might be able to use you own leather which will be the same as basic black, if it will work.

 

This thread will pretty well bring you up to date on how this project might be completed. I still haven't actually completed this conversion in any of my cars, but am working on two conversion now that have resulted from guys sending me their consoles for the conversion here. I am back to thinking that that is realistically the only way this conversion is going to come into being for anyone interested.

 

Hi Jerry,

Any updates with pics to share? It would be great to see one of these at Sharktoberfest, are you coming this year?

Thanks,

Rich

 

how bright is the screen on that carputer in bright sun? one concern with the center console is that its low angle doesn't allow for good display viewing or install of a glare shield. And not deep enough to recess it even with the additional height of the flush mod.

i was thinking a polarizer overlay but assume that would impair the touchscreen functionality.

thanks, d

 

The carputer that's being used is actually e3io's 'small edition', as it is only 6-3/4" deep (vs. the 6 to 6.5" depth that most conventional double DIN audio components measure).

http://e3io.com/2din-car-pc-small-edition

With the additional 'depth' available and all the bits I'd need to relocate the footwell flap (if necessary), I think it should fit depth-wise just fine.

The screen is a capacative touch screen, I think the brightness will not be an issue. I think they use the guts from a Mini-Touch 700 (http://www.mo-co-so.com/Double-DIN-M...700-mtc-dd.htm), though I could not get them to admit to that.

Specs on the carputer (from my order sheet):

2DIN Car PC M-ITX V2 Small Edition (2DIN Car PC Mini ITX V2 Small Edition)
Car PC Mini-ITX Case: In Dash Double Din solid metal Case with custom rear panel made by E3iO (6 3/4" deep)
Car PC frame buttons color: White front buttons
Motherboards: Ultrathin Mini-ITX Motherboard Intel® HM67 Express Chipset
Processor: Intel® Core™ i3-2310M 3M Cache 2.1GHz Intel® HD Graphics 3000
Memory: 8GB 204-Pin DDR3 SO-DIMM 1333 (E3iO Certified Memory)
Hard Drive (Master OS): SSD Samsung 840 EVO-Series 120GB 2.5" SATA III (Internal SSD)
Car PC Audio Amplifier: Audio Amplifier 50W x 4 Channel with denoiser function.
Radio: Car PC FM Radio module
Wireless Connectivity: Mini PCI Express Card - Dual Band WiFi / Bluetooth
Car PC GPS Receiver: GlobalSat BU-353-S4 USB GPS Receiver
Navigation System: NaviKey-7 Ways Navigation program with maps available for most countries.
Digital Optical Output: FREE installation of a Digital Optical Output
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 64-bit
Warranty: Lifetime Customer Support with 1 Year Parts and Labor Warranty

I'm not worried about the internal audio specs, I'm planning to run the audio out back to my sharkwoofer.

Back panel:







The unit being tested:

 

I think I have the HVAC and AC panel mounting figured out and will be doing the leather on these two conversions tomorrow, I think. Then it is downhill to the finish; so I hope to have these two jobs in the mail pretty soon.

 

Jerry,

Great job.

An acquaintance of mine is currently completely redoing his car using a mounted iPad with various isis (http://isispower.com/) goodies to replace stock items like HVAC control, radio, windows & door control, navigation, telephone, etc.

I wonder whether or not an iPad system would offer a better user experience than a Windows car computer? For once, the iPad and its software is designed to be operated via touchscreen, Windows 8.1 really isn’t. One major/minor update of Windows and none of the custom hardware/software might work.

Do you see a possibility offering an alternative flush conversion designed to hold a iPad instead of the e3io? (Niche in the metal sized to hold an iPad.) The only cable required to the iPad would be Apple's lightening cable.

Thanks.

MN

 

It's unfortunate that you feel that you must do the conversion, but I understand. Should you ever be willing to sell the inserts alone, I may be up to purchasing a set. Nice job, though.

 

Thanks, 69, but I was never able to figure out just what anyone thought "the inserts alone" would, or ought to, amount to. The reason I developed what appears as a very complex system of forming the upper and lower inserts to start with was so that they would be repeatable for me. In actuality I could have, on a much easier basis, just fabricated one or two or even a very few more from flat ABS plastic sheet material. You can do the same.

You already have the center console so you have the exact pattern for the inserts including where and how to mount the inserts, and including where to match the curvatures quite exactly. If you could start with my formed inserts and complete this conversion on your own, you can certainly fabricate the basic inserts yourself. All you need is the plastic material and a small container of ABS glue, and then with the tools that you must already have to complete this conversion, just fabricate your own inserts.

In other words, there is really no magic in my formed inserts. There is so much more fabrication associated with them to accomplish this conversion that if anyone is capable of doing that then they are certainly capable of making their own inserts to start with.

This thread and most of what I think I have put in it can function as a sort of tutorial to give anyone capable of such fabrication the guidelines to doing this conversion on their own; and I think there are enough pictures of the inserts here to point you in the correct direction of fabricating your own.

Go for it.