Well, alrighty then.

 

Yea, I know I'm still green for letting my cams rotate. But it was my first time...and I didn't know what I was doing...and I was nervous and bloated.

 

It's ok, accurate cam timing is, like - optional.

 

Re-timed with a 32VR

 

So, why move it to 45deg and increase the chances of interference by rolling the crank around?

Meh - nevermind, I gave my advice, you gave yours. It's all good.

 

Question for you all:

SeanR mentions that pulling the alternator is one of his least favorite jobs on an S4.

Should I leave the alternator in on my 86.5s? It needs a serious cleaning. Why is pulling the alternator on an S4 such a PITA?

 

The alternator needs to come out for the timing belt job anyways. It will still be attached by the wiring, however, so depending how high the car was jacked you may need to support it so as to not put too much pressure on the wiring (if car is high) or you can lay it on the ground and cover it (if low). The wiring to the alternator MAY be zip tied somewhere to keep it from dangling down and catching the road so check to make sure it's not or cut the tie. You can always secure it back when you button the car up. (If you don't release it, the alternator will have to be supported up)

Think I jacked my car up to 20" and it was still safe to sit on the ground.

There's 4-5 nuts that hold the alternator shroud down and each has it's own tiny washer. There's a gasket there that may need replacing if it's all crappy looking. Then there's one nut each for the wiring post and ground.

It's not a PITA for S3s. Aligning the holes on the bracket and trying to thread that long 17mm bolt in one hand while holding that heavy alternator in the other hand just sucks though.

 

Leave it be for now.
The alternator need not be touched to remove the timing belt cover.
It's bracket needs to be undone and slid forward but can rest on the pan after that.

Set the engine to 45 BTDC and the cams will be 3 teeth out, rotate a number of rotations first with ratchet and socket, then starter, then set cams with 32ver.

 

You mean the power steering pump. That can rest on the pan. Alternator has to go or else the pump can't come off and the center cover won't either.

+ EDIT

Ah, I see what Colin and Doc are saying. Pirtle guide says you don't necessarily need to disconnect the alternator from the PS pump. Both can be taken off as a whole unit. Learn something every day.

 

Hi Colin, Hi Avar,

Thanks for your help on a second straight thread.

I forgot to mention that I need to change the power steering pump hoses. I'd like to completely clean and inspect the power steering pump before doing that.

 

Lucky Guy! Now try a wrench! Good luck and a smooth job!

 

Don't miss that wedding in Vegas ...

but, judging by your work in your intake thread, you MUST remove alt, PS pump and anything else required in order to clean and refresh.

And while you're at it, drop the cross member & pan and change the OPG, MMs, rack bushings, etc.

Keep up the good work.

 

No.

 

Yes, Denny! Working hard in the freezing temps in the garage to get this done.

Can that be done in a separate job? To put a different way, is there an advantage to doing that job now?

 

That is really funny!!!!




Definitely can, and maybe should be, separate job. Fewer parts to keep track of. There is some overlap for ease of cleaning but that's it.