bigcatindallas

Hey guys....a little help please?

I replaced the external fuel pump, fuel filter, some fuel lines and FP relay a few weeks ago. The car would not start at all before these items were replaced. After replacement...the car started and ran, but has never ran well over appx 2200 rpm. So anything over appx 7o mph was an issue because it sputtered a little.

I was told that my car MAY have a second fuel pump and that this pump could be located either IN the tank or in the wheel liner of the passenger rear wheel.

I do not think that I have an internal pump because I do not have a set of wires connecting the internal pump to the external pump (only 1 set of wires to the connectors). I am hoping NOT to have to drop the tank. I have heard that you can "get by" by removing the internal pump.

Does anyone have an educated guess what I will find and where should I start the process?

AirtekHVAC

It's easy to remove the cover in the wheel well and see....on my car, there is a fuel filter and accumulator in the front of the rear tire, a pump at the rear of the tire, and a pump under the cover at the tank, and a fuel strainer screwed into the tank. I was also told that 1pump can run the car, but I chose to stick with 2. Good luck. Hope this helped.

Dave928S

A Euro S should have an in tank strainer as per the pic below (note there are no wires, which an in-tank pump has next to the spigot). You can start by checking that as it may be choked with rubbish.

If you pinch the hose from it to the pump to stop fuel flow, then disconnect the hose from the pump, then drain the rest of the fuel from the tank (I use a smaller hose pushed into that hose and then to a can). With the tank drained, you can then remove the in tank strainer, and pour fuel through to flush debris out of the bottom of the tank. Remove the strainer slowly to carefully break the seal ... too much force/too quick and you can spin the insert in the tank.

If it's not strainer clogging, then you've at least got a good start on elimination, and can move down the fuel line ruling out possibilities as you go. The parts you've already replaced are a good start on getting a reliable system.

Note: take all the usual precautions with fuel.

GlenL

Personally, I'm afraid of touching the old tanks. Look for the wires to satisfy your curiosity about an in-tank pump.

My suggestion is that your performance problem lies elsewhere. Have you cleaned the "secret" screen at the inlet of the fuel distributor? It looks like a male banjo fitting from the outside but inside there's a screen.

Did it sit long? I've gotten a couple old CIS cars and they fixed themselves of driveability problems with a few tanks of gas laced alternately with Seafoam and Techron.

bigcatindallas

Thanks for the help guys. Car has never set for more than a coue of days.

jpitman2

Easy way to check pumps is to test fuel delivery rate. Have a fire extinguisher handy! Undo the RETURN line that comes over the RHS cam cover (I think its the rearmost line). Run a hose from the engine side connector out into a container. Bridge the pump relay for 30secs, check the volume - should be ~1350ml.
If you have or can borrow a CIS gauge set, you can test the system and control pressures to be sure they are ok - 65-75psi system, ~45psi hot control. If hot control goes past 55psi, your power will be seriously compromised. This is usually caused by a clogged WUR - do a search.
jp 83 Euro S AT 55k

ROG100

Mike if you have a 4.7 ROW S (last time we spoke you were not 100% sure) the external pump and filter are mounted on the back of the tank and you will have a fuel strainer. There is also an accumulator in front of the rear passenger wheel.
As some others are saying probably varnish clogging up the lines - add plenty of techron to the gas and drive it like you stole it.

soontobered84

Big Cat- You really need to get a set of gauges. My '80 Euro acted the same way until I got the pressures correct.

SeanR

Yep, control and system pressures have to be correctly or it just won't work.

1989porsche928

How many of you guys did the modification to remove the strainer? I replaced mine in 2009, if this one goes bad and the general opinion is to remove / modify it I will do that. I remember when the Boss came out with the old strainer. Good think someone recommended to epoxy seal it back in the tank. No leaks since.

jpitman2

I spun the strainer threaded insert in my tank - sealed it up with PC11 gas proof epoxy. Never leaked a drop. Later I replaced the whole tank, and gave the old one away. New owner got the insert out, epoxied it back in place, worked fine last I heard. Get the tank as empty as you can, remove the gauge head fitting in the top, and see if you can see the condition of the strainer - mine was shot to pieces. If yours looks entire, leave it alone, look elsewhere.
jp 83 Euro S AT 55k

bigcatindallas

Sean.....just may need to bring it to you

James Bailey

The control pressure regulator is the "brains" of the brainless CIS injection and as mentioned can cause all kinds of drivability issues including what you describe....

If you want to know ANYTHING about your CIS you need the gauges to measure system pressure and control pressure. Or take it to someone who understands it and has the gauges

soontobered84

Too many people do not understand their own limitations. You could probably do this IF you had gauges.....but you don't.

Good call to let the pro do it for you.