FBIII

I saw the car after the frame was repaired and before anything went back together. I got to take a look at it while everything was exposed. It was in fact very nicely done. I was curious to see if there was any distortion to the firewall or any other areas where the frame member was reattached. There was no visible damage where the "new" frame member was attached to the existing chassis. I would do a search and see if the name of the shop that did the work pops up. I know Mason was impressed with their reputation and work.

ThetaTau87

Determining even a ballpark value for this car is extremely difficult. It has value as more than a parts car, but only to the right type of buyer who is looking for a deal on a driver GT and is willing to take some risk buying a car with a well known accident history. Someone who really wants a GT, but only has S4 automatic money to spend and isn't afraid to get their hands dirty sorting out the issues.

I won't hazard a guess at your car's value, but I can give you a reference point with the price I paid for my car in June 2013. My car is an 89 GT that is mostly stock and is missing some of the key (read expensive) GT parts. The 89 only light weight forged Club Sport wheels were sold by a previous owner and replaced with perfect condition 17" Cup II 993 wheels. The GT muffler has also been replaced with a standard S4 muffler. The rear bumper cover was replaced with a GTS cover many years ago due to minor rear end damage to the cover only. I thoroughly checked out the body and structure of the car and there is no damage related to the cover being damaged. These items missing from the GT bring down it's value, but were things I was willing to overlook because I don't like Club Sport wheels and planned to replace the rear muffler with a RMB anyway.

It had 135k miles on it when I bought it. Exterior is 7.5/10 with a few chips and blemishes, but mostly looks great. Interior is 8.5/10 with two very small cracks in the dash and some minor wear on the back of the front seats. Mechanically it is in very good condition. When I bought it the only things it needed were a LH front tie rod end, rear outer CV boots and an AC recharge. The timing belt and water pump were done in the last 5k miles and it has new Bilstein coil overs with <5k miles on them.

When I first saw the car on ebay the reserve was over $20k. I didn't seriously start thinking about it until the reserve dropped to $15k. I eventually bought it for $12k.

If you're thinking about selling I'd start on the high side of what you want to get for the car. The level of interest at that price will quickly tell you if you're too high. Continue to drop the price until you find a buyer or get a decent amount of interested potential buyers.

It's anyone's guess what your car might be worth in 10 years.

69gaugeman

This is the crux of the issue. With some 3000 GT's being made, they are certainly one of the more rare iterations of the 928.As more head to the parts bin the remaining ones go up in value.

I love my 90 GT. It needs an engine rebuild and the syncros done and the torque tube refreshed, but it still drives fantastic and I love it even with the blemishes. It would take me north of 20k to part with it (and only if I could find a Black on Black one to replace it with). Every thing else works as it should with the exception of the radio. That gets replaced next year.

jcorenman

Dan, it would help to know what your goal is.

If you would like to sell it, then the value will be higher if you can work through the issues and shorten the list. But realistically, unless you do the work yourself, that is probably not worth it-- just offer it as-is and accept whatever you can get.

The front-end repair doesn't need to detract much, IF it was properly done and documented. It will take some research to find out who did the work, hopefully get the receipts, and find out if anyone has pictures of the work done. That would worth doing in any case.

No airbags will be a negative for some buyers, neutral or plus for others.

The ECU's are probably stock with aftermarket chips, as mentioned-- not a big deal. You may need a diagnostic tool to reset codes, after the PSD is fixed-- not a big deal, they are around. But resetting the codes will not fix the PSD.

The PSD is a big deal, both in terms of value and also getting it fixed. As Hilton mentioned, it is most likely related to old fluid. It's a hydraulic system, a pump behind the left rear wheel pressurizes a small hydraulic accumulator, which activates the slave cylinder on the side of the tranny as needed to lock the differential. It uses brake fluid, which absorbs moisture over time, which either corrodes things or precipitates some crystalline crap that clogs things up. It is one of those out-of-sight systems that gets ignored until it quits.

It may be as simple as flushing with new fluid, but more likely the pump assembly needs to be rebuilt. There is also a fuse and relay in the spare tire well. If the pump is jammed then the fuse will be blown-- don't even think about bypassing the fuse.

If you want to keep it then it would be worth sorting through the issues as time and resources permit. If you want help, pick one issue at a time, take some pics and start a thread.

And happy thanksgiving!

Hilton

It was here:

725 County Line Rd, Huntingdon Valley, PA
(215) 322-3210

If they have any documentation of the repair that would help the case.

FBIII

Hilton good find.

Dan Brock

Thanks for uncovering all this guys!

So here's where I'm at with this car. I over paid for it a good amount. I know the parts alone will be worth a good amount if I sit on them for awhile. I've only put 600 miles on it over the last 3 years. Timing belt replacement & water pump stuff done a few months before I got it.

I don't need the money... but I also hate the fact that I have $16,000 into it (Yeah... laugh at me I deserve it).. sitting around and doing nothing. I also want to recoop as much of that as possible... so I can hold onto it until it increases in value which I'm sure it will.

I don't really want to put much more into this car... so my concern is how much it will cost me to maintain for 10 years if I basically keep it in the garage and drive it up and down the neighborhood street every few months of the year.

On the flip side, I'm also open to doing a little work and spending a little money to increase the value of the car.

The PSD is the first thing I'm going to look into.

Bottom line:

I don't need the cash in the short term, or immediate term, but I also want to get out if its going to bleed my money over time keeping it roadworthy over the next 10 years.

So I guess my main goal is recouping as much of the $16000 im into this as possible.

Thanks guys... you've all been really helpful. I know so much more about this car now.

Dan

Leon Speed

So what if you overpaid. Many of us did. It is not the cars fault. Love it and drive it. How much you have to invest in the next years to keep it running in good order depends on the general condition. I expect/mentally reserve 2000-3000 per year for my car (I do all work myself) but that is in order to get the car into top notch shape. I could drive around the whole year without spending much money if I wanted to.

Dan Brock

@jcorenman

"The ECU's are probably stock with aftermarket chips, as mentioned-- not a big deal. You may need a diagnostic tool to reset codes, after the PSD is fixed-- not a big deal, they are around. But resetting the codes will not fix the PSD."

YESSSSS! This is what Mason told me. Yeah he had aftermarket chips put in, and said those needed that Bosch KTS3000 tool to reset the codes to get the PSD functional again.

Do you know where you can get this done, and how much it would cost?

Im in the Baltimore

the flyin' scotsman

Aftermarket eproms do very little for 928 performance for the later model years. You'd be best to find a set of stock eproms and get the car right from there.

The 928 is a marvellous car straight from the factory with everything set up as it should.

jcorenman

Dan, what I wrote was that "resetting the codes will NOT fix the PSD", sorry. The aftermarket chips would be for the engine ECU's (LH and EZK), which don't have anything to do with the PSD.

The PSD is run by the same ECU that operates the ABS, the PSD and ABS warnings are coming from there. It might be worth trying to clear any codes there, but I am 99% sure that the problem is wiring or hydraulics.

And don't worry about paying too much, it happens. Heck, we paid 80K for our first 928, but we've had a lot of fun with it.

Dan Brock

Does anyone have any recommendations on shops around the Baltimore area that can handle the 928 GT... and still maybe leave a little room for me to squeeze some money out of it?

You guys rock! Happy Thanksgiving to all in US!

BC

Learn through this site to do the work yourself

Dan Brock

@jcorenman

I found this - are you sure this doesn't have to be re calibrated with the aftermarket chip that was replaced?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1991-Porsche...470c3d&vxp=mtr

RKD in OKC

ABS and PSD fault, the accelerometer under the driver's seat. Mine was just came unplugged.