shaving wheels to fit
#16
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Shave 10mm off the wheels and I will personally guarantee that you will never have an accident driving on those wheels ever again.
Did I mention you may have problems keeping the wheels on the studs long enough to get the car back on the ground.
Did I mention you may have problems keeping the wheels on the studs long enough to get the car back on the ground.
#17
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NOTE the other thing to consider is how deep is the bore to fit the hub centric collar on the hub.
Cutting the rear face of the wheel will reduce the amount of metal the lugs are clamping thus making it easier for the bolts to pull through the wheel
Cutting the rear face of the wheel will reduce the amount of metal the lugs are clamping thus making it easier for the bolts to pull through the wheel
#18
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There was a mention that the F car guys were redrilling the holes after the "shaving". That could mean that the lug nuts MIGHT have enough metal under them depending on how deep they shaped the holes but then the wheel has 10 holes....face it , it is just wrong and any way you do it the wheels are not as strong as they were designed to be.
#19
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2mm off from S4 front rotors has been done. Car is still running and in one piece. 3mm from wheels and 2mm from rotors changed 8.5" ET56 to ET61 so its better than nothing but tires were still only 235 instead of 255 what would have been some kind of improvement. There really isn't that much what can be done cheaply and easily.
#20
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the only wheel worth doing this with, would be a porsche 997 wheel, but its so far off, that you would weaken it substantially buy shaving as much as you would need to . (i.e. 15mm) and whats the purpose for 2-5mm anyway. it wouldnt make a difference on most any wheel. you need to get 10 to 15mm off the wheel and thats downright stupid. (for many of the reasons mentioned)
this is why 3 piece wheels are great. you can change the outers and inners to fit the car.
old kinesis, new forglines, HRE, etc
this is why 3 piece wheels are great. you can change the outers and inners to fit the car.
old kinesis, new forglines, HRE, etc
#21
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Problem with most of these is that to properly fit into 928 front end they would need outer rim which has almost negative offset. 16" BBS RS for 928 is good example of this. Outer rim bends inwards from its center piece mounting surface. These outer rims don't really exist in 17-18" sizes and thus its virtually impossible to make proper 3 piece wheels for 928. If one asks just about any wheel manufacturers to make 8x18 ET60 or 9x18 ET73 wheel they really can't do it with their on the shelve parts. 8x18 ET50ish yes no problem but any more ET is impossible and widening wheel towards inside don't make any difference. Relationship between outer rim and center is impossible to get round.
#22
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ROH in Australia make 18" ET 60 3-piece wheels. I've got them on the front of my car. I think the wheels are 8" wide. May be 8 1/2? I'm told that this size wheel with its ET 60 yields and effective ET 63. Not sure of that maths. But anyway, much more rubber on the road than OEM, almost the same ET, no tram lining. Hub centric too. No need to do potentially lethal things to wheels to get more rubber fitting properly.
#23
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ROH in Australia make 18" ET 60 3-piece wheels. I've got them on the front of my car. I think the wheels are 8" wide. May be 8 1/2? I'm told that this size wheel with its ET 60 yields and effective ET 63. Not sure of that maths. But anyway, much more rubber on the road than OEM, almost the same ET, no tram lining. Hub centric too. No need to do potentially lethal things to wheels to get more rubber fitting properly.
#24
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I took .080 off the face of my rear rotors to improve clearance..... it did not weaken them at all. On my 1st set of Fikse wheels they had spacers mounted to the fronts with countersunk hardware to achieve the needed offset. if the work is done well it isn't an issue. I know many people that have widened wheels by cutting and welding in wider sections.... no problems....
#26
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I cannot believe this thread is still going with people saying: "Yea... maybe..."
It's a horrible idea and anyone who thinks it might be OK have never actually measured a wheel.
I've personally measured over 20 different wheels (mostly Porsche, two Ferrari, one Ford). All of them had less than 12mm at the narrow end.
Considering you have no idea how much material there is to work with, that is a very bold and dangerous assumption.
So removing over 65% of the available material between the lug nut and the hub isn't going to hurt anything? Why not 80%? Hell, just shave it all off and weld the wheel on.....
I would like to know which wheels those are. All of the Porsche wheels I measured where the same, factory or not.
Making that area thicker reduces the number of available threads for the lug, which isn't a good thing either.
It's a horrible idea and anyone who thinks it might be OK have never actually measured a wheel.
I've personally measured over 20 different wheels (mostly Porsche, two Ferrari, one Ford). All of them had less than 12mm at the narrow end.
Considering you have no idea how much material there is to work with, that is a very bold and dangerous assumption.
So removing over 65% of the available material between the lug nut and the hub isn't going to hurt anything? Why not 80%? Hell, just shave it all off and weld the wheel on.....
Originally Posted by Vilhuer
Some aftermarket wheels have much more material than factory sets.
Making that area thicker reduces the number of available threads for the lug, which isn't a good thing either.
#29
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ROH website .... http://www.roh.com.au/
Another Australian company doing custom made split rims, who've also been around for a similar time, and servicing race and road applications are Simmons Wheels ... http://www.simmonswheel.com.au/ .. go to the photo gallery section where you'll see quite a few race applications.
I've used wheels from both companies on road and race cars over many decades, and the quality has always been first class, and both produce nice looking wheels.
Another Australian company doing custom made split rims, who've also been around for a similar time, and servicing race and road applications are Simmons Wheels ... http://www.simmonswheel.com.au/ .. go to the photo gallery section where you'll see quite a few race applications.
I've used wheels from both companies on road and race cars over many decades, and the quality has always been first class, and both produce nice looking wheels.
#30
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Problem with most of these is that to properly fit into 928 front end they would need outer rim which has almost negative offset. 16" BBS RS for 928 is good example of this. Outer rim bends inwards from its center piece mounting surface. These outer rims don't really exist in 17-18" sizes and thus its virtually impossible to make proper 3 piece wheels for 928. If one asks just about any wheel manufacturers to make 8x18 ET60 or 9x18 ET73 wheel they really can't do it with their on the shelve parts. 8x18 ET50ish yes no problem but any more ET is impossible and widening wheel towards inside don't make any difference. Relationship between outer rim and center is impossible to get round.
If you are going to fit a 3 piece wheel why would you want a 8 inch ET60 when you can have a 9.5 inch wheel with ET68? Mine have a 1.5 inch outer section and an 8 inch inner section up front and work well carrying a 265 section on a 9.5 inch overall rim width.
Doubtless they are tricky to make and clearance to the front caliper is critical.
Regards
Fred