Power steering pump removal
#1
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Power steering pump removal
Any threads on here re. the removal of power steering pump with pics, mine has a dry bearing noise and a bit of digeareedoo noise when cold.
Just wondering if I can tackle the job my self.
Just wondering if I can tackle the job my self.
#2
Skip to Chapter 5 here : http://dwaynesgarage.norcal928.org/1...0Procedure.htm
Pretty straightforward. Pretty easy. Jack up the car enough to get clearance to the front. What year is the car?
If you're going to remove the pump entirely, I'd take all the fluid out of the reservoir first.
- Disconnect battery
- Remove belly pans
- Loosen tension on alternator and power steering belts
- Remove alternator (2 bolts, take off cooling hose, alternator is still wired in so don't drop it)
- PS Pump is held on by 3 bolts (17mm and two 13mm) and also "locks" into a dock on the block so just gently pull it forward once you unbolt it
- Then you can remove the two hoses still connected to the pump, one is a banjo bolt so you'll need to unbolt that. Once you do it'll start to leak out fluid so have a catch bin to collect.
Installation is the reverse. Best to work underneath the car. The only thing I'm not sure about is getting the belt back on the pump. Mine was a PITA to get on without removing the accessory pulley.
Pretty straightforward. Pretty easy. Jack up the car enough to get clearance to the front. What year is the car?
If you're going to remove the pump entirely, I'd take all the fluid out of the reservoir first.
- Disconnect battery
- Remove belly pans
- Loosen tension on alternator and power steering belts
- Remove alternator (2 bolts, take off cooling hose, alternator is still wired in so don't drop it)
- PS Pump is held on by 3 bolts (17mm and two 13mm) and also "locks" into a dock on the block so just gently pull it forward once you unbolt it
- Then you can remove the two hoses still connected to the pump, one is a banjo bolt so you'll need to unbolt that. Once you do it'll start to leak out fluid so have a catch bin to collect.
Installation is the reverse. Best to work underneath the car. The only thing I'm not sure about is getting the belt back on the pump. Mine was a PITA to get on without removing the accessory pulley.
#3
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Replace the PS fluid reservoir while you are at it. It is a consumable item with an integral filter.
#5
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Mine is an 88 S4.
I'm not so sure it is the steering pump, it definitely has a weep at the reservoir end (hose) and needed topping. But the baring noise could be air con.
Guess its time to remove those belts.
I'm not so sure it is the steering pump, it definitely has a weep at the reservoir end (hose) and needed topping. But the baring noise could be air con.
Guess its time to remove those belts.
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#8
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Power Steering Pump and Belt
So, I have similar noise symptoms. A persistent PS belt chirp at idle speed. When a light squirt of WD40 is put onto the belt, the noise disappears for a minute or so. This infers (to me, anyway) that I have a belt pulley misalignment, most likely the pump end (duh). (Car is a '92 ROW GTS Auto, 73,000km)
Question; have others experienced this belt chirp, and did I possibly bodge the PS pump frame-tensioner install against the block at the end of the timing belt job?
Advice, straight-edge check, etc?
Thanks/Tim
Question; have others experienced this belt chirp, and did I possibly bodge the PS pump frame-tensioner install against the block at the end of the timing belt job?
Advice, straight-edge check, etc?
Thanks/Tim
#10
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Speaking of P/S belts, I could not get the new belt installed. Labored for an hour; tried everything. Finally put back the old belt. Anyone else have this problem?
#11
Only way I know how to put on the inner belts is by taking the crank pulley off, stringing them and then re-install. You'll need to lock the engine with the flywheel lock tool.
I tried effortlessly for a half hour on my TB/WP job trying to install them with crank pulley on first (crank bolt just less than finger tight to hold it in place). Just wasn't enough stretch on a fresh belt to get it on using pure force. The pulley and crankshaft edge provide all the leverage needed.
I tried effortlessly for a half hour on my TB/WP job trying to install them with crank pulley on first (crank bolt just less than finger tight to hold it in place). Just wasn't enough stretch on a fresh belt to get it on using pure force. The pulley and crankshaft edge provide all the leverage needed.
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DaveK is right. A new belt, properly-tensioned solved the issue. The Krikit is tough to get repeatable tension results. Gates info on V-belt noise says "Gates engineers have developed new elastomeric compounds that are noise-resistant under various environmental and wear conditions. These new belts feature additives that enable them to slide easily into and out of the pulley. This low-noise construction helps to eliminate belt noise from most misalignment situations." (from http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?br...ocation_id=540).
#14
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the new belts easily fit if all bolts a very loose and pump and/alternator are fully toward engine.....just did this after tbelt/gears project.
There are various belts that have to be the correct type and length..........air pump and power steering are very close and change over model years, be careful.
There are various belts that have to be the correct type and length..........air pump and power steering are very close and change over model years, be careful.