Run down of transmission pressures
#16
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Thanks Greg..![Cheers](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/beerchug.gif)
Just got home and drained the fluid out of the pan and I'm prrrrrrrrrrrrrretty sure I found my problem![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
Lots of sludge...a few large chunks of friction material..either clutch or band, Im not sure. Either way its not conducive to a properly functioning transmission!
My filter is marked 3-6-06 157,000 miles.
I'm currently at 178,000.
Im uploading a video now.
Plan of attack now is a fluid /filter change (A DUH!!
) drop the valve body and clean it. Put it back together and see if that fixes my issues. If it does then i will then drop the transmission and put in my spare with 88k miles on it and "attack" this one with a rebuild attempt. Either way this transmission wont see much more time in my car. I basically want to see what was causing my issues before i swapped it out....i think pictures sum it up.
What say the jury....![popcorn](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/popcorn.gif)
![Cheers](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/beerchug.gif)
Just got home and drained the fluid out of the pan and I'm prrrrrrrrrrrrrretty sure I found my problem
![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
Lots of sludge...a few large chunks of friction material..either clutch or band, Im not sure. Either way its not conducive to a properly functioning transmission!
My filter is marked 3-6-06 157,000 miles.
I'm currently at 178,000.
Im uploading a video now.
Plan of attack now is a fluid /filter change (A DUH!!
![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
What say the jury....
![popcorn](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/popcorn.gif)
Time for the spare.....the fat lady has already sung, left the building, and is at home, drinking a glass of wine.
#17
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Ive never had a valve body apart so i look at this as a good chance to have a look inside one..post some pics etc No harm no foul if it doesn't work when it goes back in.
However, if it does work and my car does shift "normally", then i know what my issue(s) was and i can pull the tranny with some peace of mind knowing what was wrong to begin with...its just old and worn out.
The last 20k miles have not been easy ones on it at times.
Onward.
#18
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cracked open the valve body last night.
Yup..its dirty.![EEK!](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
Organization of parts is the key and LOTS of pictures. Im actually surprised it even would shift out of park seeing what i have seen through all this so far!!
Yup..its dirty.
![EEK!](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
Organization of parts is the key and LOTS of pictures. Im actually surprised it even would shift out of park seeing what i have seen through all this so far!!
#19
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That's an impressive amount of sludge! It's as if the clutch plates and bands turned into dust. I was surprised how fresh mine looked when I opened it up at last fall at ~240K miles.
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There's gold in dem der hills!
Wow. That is spectacular.
Wow. That is spectacular.
#21
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Seeing all that crap and these "needle" holes and the small screen filter....![ooops](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/icon501.gif)
(that is the tip of a needle in the picture)
all cleaned up now and with a very deep breathe, ready to put back together
(FYI..dont use that last picture as an assembly reference...there are springs/parts out of order)
![ooops](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/icon501.gif)
(that is the tip of a needle in the picture)
all cleaned up now and with a very deep breathe, ready to put back together
(FYI..dont use that last picture as an assembly reference...there are springs/parts out of order)
#24
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It wont be as dirty as it was, that's for sure and it was "driveable" before .. I just want to see if this fixes the shifting problem I was having. if it does great, then the tranny comes out and I rebuild it knowing in some way what was causing the problem..if not...it still has to come out, I cant drive around with it in its current state internally.
#25
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Fair enough. I suppose too if it still has some shift issues, depending on what they are, that could lead you to re-examine some of the shift valves you cleaned up.
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I have since installed a spare unit with LSD and did a whole bunch of other things while on the job. converter bearings, seal, wheel bearings, parking brake etc.....the new "used"(spare) transmission shifts great as well and Im loving how the LSD helps the car hook up.
Don't be intimidated by rebuilding the valve body..its easy. Just be sure to record or somehow document the process so reassembly is easy.
one big TIP...be sure you flip the vlave body over before splitting the halves..the intermediate plate will hold the ***** in place and pay attention to the details of how items are arranged.
#28
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Tony I have been following your thread on your tranny delima and thank you for sharing this with us.
I too am faced with this idea to move forward and swap my rebuilt LDS unit and retire my orginal autobox with 91000miles that by the way does not leak, shifts great seems to have no problems except no LSD When I installed the SC it was the plan to continue to beef up the tranny and move to an LSD, mainly for what you are experenceing now with the hook up with the pavement.
One question I do have is did you drop the tranny, converter, and torque tube as one and leaving the bell housing attached to the engine block?
Any tips here for a man about to take this jump again? I really need to move in the direction that is the most time sensitive .
Thanks again
David
I too am faced with this idea to move forward and swap my rebuilt LDS unit and retire my orginal autobox with 91000miles that by the way does not leak, shifts great seems to have no problems except no LSD When I installed the SC it was the plan to continue to beef up the tranny and move to an LSD, mainly for what you are experenceing now with the hook up with the pavement.
One question I do have is did you drop the tranny, converter, and torque tube as one and leaving the bell housing attached to the engine block?
Any tips here for a man about to take this jump again? I really need to move in the direction that is the most time sensitive .
Thanks again
David
#29
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Tony I have been following your thread on your tranny delima and thank you for sharing this with us.
I too am faced with this idea to move forward and swap my rebuilt LDS unit and retire my orginal autobox with 91000miles that by the way does not leak, shifts great seems to have no problems except no LSD When I installed the SC it was the plan to continue to beef up the tranny and move to an LSD, mainly for what you are experenceing now with the hook up with the pavement.
One question I do have is did you drop the tranny, converter, and torque tube as one and leaving the bell housing attached to the engine block?
Any tips here for a man about to take this jump again? I really need to move in the direction that is the most time sensitive .
Thanks again
David
I too am faced with this idea to move forward and swap my rebuilt LDS unit and retire my orginal autobox with 91000miles that by the way does not leak, shifts great seems to have no problems except no LSD When I installed the SC it was the plan to continue to beef up the tranny and move to an LSD, mainly for what you are experenceing now with the hook up with the pavement.
One question I do have is did you drop the tranny, converter, and torque tube as one and leaving the bell housing attached to the engine block?
Any tips here for a man about to take this jump again? I really need to move in the direction that is the most time sensitive .
Thanks again
David
![ducking](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/icon107.gif)
... about 5yrs ago or so when I pulled the torque tube and the engine etc etc for a different thing, I cut a section out of the lower bell housing.
![EEK!](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
Now to drop the transmission I don't have to deal with the upper bell housing bolts on the engine. On my car they are impossible to get at unless I remove my supercharger intake...which requires, the supercharger to come out...it would be like pulling a thread on a sweater if you get the idea. I didn't want to deal with it.
the cut on the bell housing allowed me to drop the shaft of the TT and the entire assembly straight down. I loosened the fwd pinch bolt....removed the 6 flex plate bolts..slid the collar and flexplate back on the shaft ..removed the easily accessible TT to bell housing bolts..and lowered it through the gap I made with the cut.
The transmission was supported with a jack as was the front of the TT...just took my time and lowered it all as a single unit (the crossmember/suspension was already out)
Sticky wicket in it all is the mounting bolt for the Bowden cable on the torque converter cover. I used a 10mm socket on a 1/4 drive, a few extensions and a universal joint at the front.
video is worth more than a 1000 words.
#30
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I didn't remove the TT when I pulled my trans. I removed the air cleaner to allow engine to rotate down in back, lowered the trans enough to remove the upper TT to trans bolts, then pulled the trans back and out. More than one way to skin a cat.