CPS was rotating while held in vise grips. Then plastic disintegrated. The magnet is about a quarter inch up and the broken plastic has it shouldered well making a good bite with grips tough.

Any clues how to remove? I am up to my elbows in alligators and all I wanted to do was drain the pond...

 

Dremel all the black plastic material off. You look like you have cleared away the throttle wheel, so you have room to maneuver. Then add lots of PB, or penetrant of choice, and you should have enough metal to grab in order to remove.

 

Same problem here.
Many good advices and solutions.

Should work for you too.
Good luck.

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...lp-advice.html

 

I had a similar issue and patience plus vice grips resolved. My saga: https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...r-harness.html

 

You can also melt the plastic and scoop it out with a soldering iron tip. Get enough out get a grip on and to pull out the magnet. That way you don't damage the aluminum with a drill.

The softer shell and rest if the guts in the sensor tip may remain. In my case I sunk a wall hook into it and pulled the remains out.

 

Put the car in the air, remove the cats and unbolt lower bell housing, drop the clutch pack, and tap the sensor out from beneath with a wood dowel and hammer.

Dropping the clutch in a 928 is easy, and the procedure above should take about an hour, versus spending lots of time dremmeling, swearing, and getting frustrated

 

I approached it the way that Hilton suggests. After 8 hours of all kinds of attempts from the topside.

Do be careful when removing the clutch pack, as it is fairly heavy and can crush your face.

 

Thanks for the ideas!
Tried the soldering iron to clear the plastic with success, but rounded off the magnet by using the vise grips repeatedly on out.
The magnet spins, but when I try to pull it up, it snaps off.
I have left the magnet over night with JB Weld and a old 10 mm wrench attached to it. I hope the liquid steel hardens and bonds enough such that I have a good handle to pell the magnet up with.
If it works, I will be able to thread a ladder hook in and pull the plastic...

If all fails, how hard is it to remove from bottom? I did jack up car and looked. Seems I have to remove the starter, and a few other large pieces to get access. I do not have a lift, I am working on my back since the creeper is too high and my belly won't fit under the car. Just a greasy mess...
Always, thanks for the encouragement and help!

 

From bottom you tap it upwards with a long rod and hammer.
Car should be on 6 ton jackstands, fairly high.
Maybe ditch the creeper. I use a sheet of 1/2 inch blue Styrofoam insulation underneath.
Just ideas to consider.


Post 89 below has some pics of the thing from the bottom-up
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...6v-euro-5.html

 

Not hard - I don't have a lift either

Get the car good secure up on jackstands. Unbolt the cats, disconnect the O2 sensor, and wiggle them off the rear exhaust, then unbolt the clutch slave and lower bell housing - I can't recall whether the started has to come off, but it won't hurt (disconnect the battery first, just in case).

Dropping the clutch is actually pretty easy in a 928 - I recommend using a plywood board on your chest to "catch" the pack when you're lying under it.

The only gotchas are remembering to pop the release arm off the ball at the top side (under the air box - note it should have a white plastic cup in there, mine had nothing left!), and making the three metal spacers per the WSM to release the clutch pack (I used 3mm (1/8") thick aluminium bar for it, cut into short pieces - the WSM has a more complex design, but its not needed IMO).

 

Has anyone done the removal from the top with a "stuck" magnet? I see the options for removal after the magnet comes your, but mine is stick...
I can rotate it, but it wont pull out.

I have used vise grips, channel locks, and even JB Weld to "weld" a wrench to it in the hopes of more leverage, but to no avail...

This morning I attempted a removal of the clutch pack and have since found out that due to the headers, that play or the clutch pack will bee able to come down without header removal...

I don't want to sound defeated, but the clutch pack option is not going to work as I will not be able to remove the headers.

I am going into Home Depot to get a hole saw to somehow team out the plastic better such that I can get needle noise plier on it deeper and hopefully have less resistance. But, what I am afraid of is removing too much plastic and then not getting the metal cap out from the bottom...

I have been praying these last few years that I might receive strength and patience. Then I got this 928... It is giving me am over abundance of lessons in both.

Appreciate any and all help! !

Tom
1986.5 5-Speed

 

Where does the CPS drop into exactly? Couldn't you just take the flywheel cover off, tap it out from the other side and have it drop through? If it drops into the plates, rotate the engine by hand until it falls out or you're facing it so you can just take it out with a magnet/long pliers?

 

I dug deep enough to remove the magnet completely then I could get a screw into the remaining plastic. Post #16 (link below) shows the details of how i did it.

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-advice-2.html

 

Magnet has broken off 1/4" below the lip of the setting. I cannot drill the remaining magnet as it is too hard (heat treated, not procedural) and believe I have ruined any chance of recovery from the top. Just don't understand that the magnet would rotate but not come up...
I cannot remove the bottom of the bell housing as the exhaust headers are too close to the bolts and they will not back out of their threads to even allow the lower plate to open enough to evacuate the sensor if i pushed it through.

Does anyone know if the sensor could be pushed down and through, guided somehow towards the transmission side of the clutch pack and then somehow grabbed by another recovery magnet tool (like one that gets those loose nuts we drop) or even a recovery grabber that will allow me to guide it out by the clutch release lever? Or even a piece of aluminum to act as a slide for the piece to ride down on and out the opening?

I cannot see the extent of that opening in the bell housing or if this would even work, but any advice is appreciated. I do not even know if the headers could be removed without removing the engine???

I will have pictures tomorrow of my misery...

 

KAelix,
How did you remove the plastic as you said you dug deep enough? I had drilled all around the magnet with both a dremel tool bit and also with a 1/8" drill bit, the magnet would still not come up... if you also used a dremel, which bit? I think i might go back to Home Depot and get the tile grout removal bit.

Is it "stuck" to something beneath it by magnetism or is it just that tight of a fit? I am baffled and almost beaten by this as my option are disappearing.
I think if i can get the magnet out, the piece will come up using your technique, but magnet is hanging in there and won't budge up...