Really need CPS help/advice
#1
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I think i really messed it up this time. I was replacing fuel lines and the CPS connector crumbled on me. Figured I replace the whole sensor, but of course it was stuck. 3 days of PB soaking tried to wiggle and pull up - nothing. Tried to lift it with lawnmower wire hooked up to a 2x4 across the fenders. Didn't move 1mm.
Then the fun started when the plastic broke. I went searching and found this thread:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...s-removal.html
broke out the soldering iron and now I have a huge mess (see pic, that's the magnet) and I don't know what I should do.
I would like some noob friendly suggestions, because clearly i'm a noob.
Suggestions like pulling the engine are out of my league, plus i just finished my first TB/WP service (which was a b**ch) i'd rather not go undoing any of that.
Moving the flywheel to get under it also seems like a huge undertaking. Why, why would you put the connector there Porsche
help?
Then the fun started when the plastic broke. I went searching and found this thread:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...s-removal.html
broke out the soldering iron and now I have a huge mess (see pic, that's the magnet) and I don't know what I should do.
I would like some noob friendly suggestions, because clearly i'm a noob.
Suggestions like pulling the engine are out of my league, plus i just finished my first TB/WP service (which was a b**ch) i'd rather not go undoing any of that.
Moving the flywheel to get under it also seems like a huge undertaking. Why, why would you put the connector there Porsche
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#2
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Take off the lower bell housing and you can get a thin, long screw driver on the end of it. Tap it up with a hammer and you are home free.
#3
Nordschleife Master
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Or, remove the two bolts that hold in the throttle wheel bracket. There are some ground wires attached there so use this opportunity to make them 'shiny'. Be certain you put them back. Having that wheel and bracket out of the way is easy, and will give much better access and possibly some new perspectives for your attack. By the look of your picture the wheel, and hence the bracket, are still in your way.
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Is the lower bell housing the same as the flywheel cover i.e. 6 hex bolts with 13mm heads taking it off you see the flex plate and clamp?
If so I have that off already (installed a pklamp) but I couldn't see where I would push up the CPS, i'll have to take another look.
As for the second suggestion, I have removed and cleaned both the bolts holding that bracket before. I can remove them again (it's not totally in the way) but after I did that what would be a plan of attack? Continue melting plastic?
If so I have that off already (installed a pklamp) but I couldn't see where I would push up the CPS, i'll have to take another look.
As for the second suggestion, I have removed and cleaned both the bolts holding that bracket before. I can remove them again (it's not totally in the way) but after I did that what would be a plan of attack? Continue melting plastic?
#5
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Here's how I removed mine after I broke it. ![Mad](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif)
Ok here we go!
I did remove it from the top.
If it is not too stuck, you can do what Sean said, but...
You can't easily reach it from under as the flywheel is in the way!!!
Also, don't try to push it to stong as you will probably bent it and have more problem removing it from the the top. Ask me how I know!
Anyway here's how I did it.
1) Is the intake out? If so it is easier to work down there. Mine was out when I did the job. If not, still doable but harder as it is deep behind the intake.
2) I put alot of penetring oil on top of the CPS.
3) From the top, I used a Dremel tool to remove as mutch plastic as I can inside the CPS on top and around the magnet. About 1/4" below the top of the magnet worked fine for me.
4) I used a pair of long nose plier and pull the magnet out. It did come out quite easily. Now that the magnet is out, you can tap the hole and use a long bolt, nut and a spacer (a 1/2" small pipe work well for me) and take it out!
5) Take a bolt about 3 inches long and:
a) put a nut all the way to the top of the bolt head.
b) put a big washer. Maybe about 1".
c) then a piece of pipe (1/2") and screw it in there as much as you can. Don't put it to tight as not to striped it.
6) Then, screw the nut down. It will eventually lift the bolt and at the same time, the sensor.
When I pull the CPS out, the lower metal part separated from the top plastic section and stayed stuck inside. Now another problem. As I could't remove it from the top, I push it from the top and picked it from under on the top of the bell housing.
It took me few hours to do the whole job but at least I did not have to remove it from under - moving the trans./ torque tube, removing the flywheel etc.![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
I hope you understand what I mean by using the bolt, nut, washer and the small pipe as a lever.
It is the way I did it after a friend suggest me to do so and it worked.
Hope it will work for you. It should.
With a bit of time and patience, it will get out!
Good luck.
![Mad](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif)
Ok here we go!
I did remove it from the top.
If it is not too stuck, you can do what Sean said, but...
You can't easily reach it from under as the flywheel is in the way!!!
Also, don't try to push it to stong as you will probably bent it and have more problem removing it from the the top. Ask me how I know!
Anyway here's how I did it.
1) Is the intake out? If so it is easier to work down there. Mine was out when I did the job. If not, still doable but harder as it is deep behind the intake.
2) I put alot of penetring oil on top of the CPS.
3) From the top, I used a Dremel tool to remove as mutch plastic as I can inside the CPS on top and around the magnet. About 1/4" below the top of the magnet worked fine for me.
4) I used a pair of long nose plier and pull the magnet out. It did come out quite easily. Now that the magnet is out, you can tap the hole and use a long bolt, nut and a spacer (a 1/2" small pipe work well for me) and take it out!
5) Take a bolt about 3 inches long and:
a) put a nut all the way to the top of the bolt head.
b) put a big washer. Maybe about 1".
c) then a piece of pipe (1/2") and screw it in there as much as you can. Don't put it to tight as not to striped it.
6) Then, screw the nut down. It will eventually lift the bolt and at the same time, the sensor.
When I pull the CPS out, the lower metal part separated from the top plastic section and stayed stuck inside. Now another problem. As I could't remove it from the top, I push it from the top and picked it from under on the top of the bell housing.
It took me few hours to do the whole job but at least I did not have to remove it from under - moving the trans./ torque tube, removing the flywheel etc.
![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
I hope you understand what I mean by using the bolt, nut, washer and the small pipe as a lever.
It is the way I did it after a friend suggest me to do so and it worked.
Hope it will work for you. It should.
With a bit of time and patience, it will get out!
Good luck.
![thumbup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/thumbup.gif)
#6
Nordschleife Master
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Here's how I removed mine after I broke it. ![Mad](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif)
Ok here we go!
I did remove it from the top.
If it is not too stuck, you can do what Sean said, but...
You can't easily reach it from under as the flywheel is in the way!!!
Also, don't try to push it to stong as you will probably bent it and have more problem removing it from the the top. Ask me how I know!
Anyway here's how I did it.
1) Is the intake out? If so it is easier to work down there. Mine was out when I did the job. If not, still doable but harder as it is deep behind the intake.
2) I put alot of penetring oil on top of the CPS.
3) From the top, I used a Dremel tool to remove as mutch plastic as I can inside the CPS on top and around the magnet. About 1/4" below the top of the magnet worked fine for me.
4) I used a pair of long nose plier and pull the magnet out. It did come out quite easily. Now that the magnet is out, you can tap the hole and use a long bolt, nut and a spacer (a 1/2" small pipe work well for me) and take it out!
5) Take a bolt about 3 inches long and:
a) put a nut all the way to the top of the bolt head.
b) put a big washer. Maybe about 1".
c) then a piece of pipe (1/2") and screw it in there as much as you can. Don't put it to tight as not to striped it.
6) Then, screw the nut down. It will eventually lift the bolt and at the same time, the sensor.
When I pull the CPS out, the lower metal part separated from the top plastic section and stayed stuck inside. Now another problem. As I could't remove it from the top, I push it from the top and picked it from under on the top of the bell housing.
It took me few hours to do the whole job but at least I did not have to remove it from under - moving the trans./ torque tube, removing the flywheel etc.![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
I hope you understand what I mean by using the bolt, nut, washer and the small pipe as a lever.
It is the way I did it after a friend suggest me to do so and it worked.
Hope it will work for you. It should.
With a bit of time and patience, it will get out!
Good luck.![thumbup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/thumbup.gif)
![Mad](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif)
Ok here we go!
I did remove it from the top.
If it is not too stuck, you can do what Sean said, but...
You can't easily reach it from under as the flywheel is in the way!!!
Also, don't try to push it to stong as you will probably bent it and have more problem removing it from the the top. Ask me how I know!
Anyway here's how I did it.
1) Is the intake out? If so it is easier to work down there. Mine was out when I did the job. If not, still doable but harder as it is deep behind the intake.
2) I put alot of penetring oil on top of the CPS.
3) From the top, I used a Dremel tool to remove as mutch plastic as I can inside the CPS on top and around the magnet. About 1/4" below the top of the magnet worked fine for me.
4) I used a pair of long nose plier and pull the magnet out. It did come out quite easily. Now that the magnet is out, you can tap the hole and use a long bolt, nut and a spacer (a 1/2" small pipe work well for me) and take it out!
5) Take a bolt about 3 inches long and:
a) put a nut all the way to the top of the bolt head.
b) put a big washer. Maybe about 1".
c) then a piece of pipe (1/2") and screw it in there as much as you can. Don't put it to tight as not to striped it.
6) Then, screw the nut down. It will eventually lift the bolt and at the same time, the sensor.
When I pull the CPS out, the lower metal part separated from the top plastic section and stayed stuck inside. Now another problem. As I could't remove it from the top, I push it from the top and picked it from under on the top of the bell housing.
It took me few hours to do the whole job but at least I did not have to remove it from under - moving the trans./ torque tube, removing the flywheel etc.
![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
I hope you understand what I mean by using the bolt, nut, washer and the small pipe as a lever.
It is the way I did it after a friend suggest me to do so and it worked.
Hope it will work for you. It should.
With a bit of time and patience, it will get out!
Good luck.
![thumbup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/thumbup.gif)
The change out of the CPS should be a WYAIT procedure when the intake is off. Yes, you can do it with it on, but you will be pawing at it.
#7
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Intake is on, I'm actually laying on top of it to be able to get access directly from above. From Bertranddaoust directions it sounds like I haven't dug deep enough. I'll remove the bracket and guide wheel to get more room and dig deeper with the soldering iron and/or switch to a dremel cutting bit.
I'd like to try Sean's suggestion from below first, can I get confirmation that:
Is the lower bell housing the same as the flywheel cover i.e. 6 hex bolts with 13mm heads taking it off you see the flex plate and clamp?
I'd like to try Sean's suggestion from below first, can I get confirmation that:
Is the lower bell housing the same as the flywheel cover i.e. 6 hex bolts with 13mm heads taking it off you see the flex plate and clamp?
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#8
Nordschleife Master
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Yes, there are 6 x 13 mm bolts.
Unless you have removed this for flex plate checks you will have to loosen and lower the exhaust to get the two most posterior bolts off. When you replace, put on the four bolts so your access to your flex plate easier.
Unless you have removed this for flex plate checks you will have to loosen and lower the exhaust to get the two most posterior bolts off. When you replace, put on the four bolts so your access to your flex plate easier.
#9
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Be careful with a dremel or you can mess up the housing. I used an iron to melt the plastic enough to get a grip on the magnet and pull it out. Then I sunk a wall hook into it. It was thick enough to grab the insides of the sensor. Then I pulled it up by twisting a cable looped on the hook and a piece of lumber on the firewall. It came out easily and intact at that point.
#10
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I managed to melt enough plastic to get the magnet and a smaller tube connected to it out. I tried a wall hook like you did, but after a bit the plastic inside the tube started just spinning. When i pulled up nothing would budge so I figured it was in there enough to pull with some force. I connected my wood rig across the fenders to get more leverage, but as the connecting cable got tight, just the hook ended up coming out. No upward movement of anything inside.
Now i'm left with bigger hole than the magnet, when I stick a drill bit in there to try and start a new hole at the bottom and maybe get some metal, I can't. It feels like I reached the end or the metal is too hard like the magnet.
I thought maybe i was hitting the flywheel teeth, so I rotated the engine to look at the teeth that were under the sensor, luckily no damage (not sure it's even possible but checked for piece of mind)
I tried to get under it like Sean suggested but I just can't get enough of the sensor from the bottom to hammer even with a 20" screwdriver, only maybe a 1/4 of the sensor at edge can be seen.
not sure what my next move should be.
Now i'm left with bigger hole than the magnet, when I stick a drill bit in there to try and start a new hole at the bottom and maybe get some metal, I can't. It feels like I reached the end or the metal is too hard like the magnet.
I thought maybe i was hitting the flywheel teeth, so I rotated the engine to look at the teeth that were under the sensor, luckily no damage (not sure it's even possible but checked for piece of mind)
I tried to get under it like Sean suggested but I just can't get enough of the sensor from the bottom to hammer even with a 20" screwdriver, only maybe a 1/4 of the sensor at edge can be seen.
not sure what my next move should be.
#11
Pro
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The magnet is the hardest piece. Then there is the sensor guts. Did you try a nice and fat wall hook? I had the intake off and fuel lines etc removed when I did it so it may have been easier for me. I can't imagine trying it with all that stuff in place.
If the magnet is out, you may be able to drill it. Let us know what worked when you get it!
If the magnet is out, you may be able to drill it. Let us know what worked when you get it!
#12
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...Now that the magnet is out, you can tap the hole and use a long bolt, maybe 3" long,
a nut, a spacer (a 1/2" small copper pipe about 1" long work well for me) and a 1" washer and take it out!
- Take the bolt and:
a) put the nut all the way to the top of the bolt head.
b) put the washer.
c) then the pipe and screw it in there as much as you can. Don't put it to tight as not to striped it.
Then, screw the nut down holding the bolt in position. It will eventually lift the bolt and at the same time, the sensor...
It worked for me.
Worth a try maybe.
a nut, a spacer (a 1/2" small copper pipe about 1" long work well for me) and a 1" washer and take it out!
- Take the bolt and:
a) put the nut all the way to the top of the bolt head.
b) put the washer.
c) then the pipe and screw it in there as much as you can. Don't put it to tight as not to striped it.
Then, screw the nut down holding the bolt in position. It will eventually lift the bolt and at the same time, the sensor...
It worked for me.
Worth a try maybe.
#13
Nordschleife Master
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Your car will be down for a period anyway by pawing at it, and you are risking damaging things. Really, having optimal access will make it better. Then you can refresh vac lines, vent hoses, sensors, etc... while you're there.
#14
Team Owner
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a this point I would suggest to get a thick blanket and put it on the roof ,
then remove the hood latch, then the hood, put the hood on the roof,
this will give a whole new perspective on removal of the CPS.
follow the suggestions of the other posters.
then remove the hood latch, then the hood, put the hood on the roof,
this will give a whole new perspective on removal of the CPS.
follow the suggestions of the other posters.
#15
Rennlist Member
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a puller like the one used to remove flappy bearings?