Engine break in
#1
Banned
Thread Starter
Engine break in
I have read that no synthetic oil should be used for 7000 miles after a rebuild. Is this necessary?
The procedure I read is straight 30 wt non detergent oil for the first 30 minute run to seat the rings, then change the oil/filter with a high zinc oil such as Shell or Valvoline 20W/50 organic and/or add a zinc additive.
Drive for 500 to 1000 miles at various speeds, then change to a high quality conventional oil.
Is there a need to keep using conventional oil after the first 500 or 1000 miles? Where did 7000 miles come from as I want to use a synthetic after the break in period. Thanks.
The procedure I read is straight 30 wt non detergent oil for the first 30 minute run to seat the rings, then change the oil/filter with a high zinc oil such as Shell or Valvoline 20W/50 organic and/or add a zinc additive.
Drive for 500 to 1000 miles at various speeds, then change to a high quality conventional oil.
Is there a need to keep using conventional oil after the first 500 or 1000 miles? Where did 7000 miles come from as I want to use a synthetic after the break in period. Thanks.
#2
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Old, old info. Every new car that uses synthetic gets a standard oil fill on the assembly line. Many folks do like to make the first change early. You won't hurt anything by using a high-quality non-synthetic for the first 500 miles if you are really ****. I would not put 30-wt non-detergent in my engine. You can ruin the cam noses very quickly.
Since this is a question of religion, not knowledge, I'm sure that you will get several opinions...
Since this is a question of religion, not knowledge, I'm sure that you will get several opinions...
#3
There is a break in oil made by someone with very high levels of ZDDP - thats what some suggest.
#4
Rennlist Member
Royal Purple has an oil that is specifically break in oil. The motors I've rebuilt I just put whatever I was going to run and did the first change at 500 to catch any debris. Never had a problem.
#5
Banned
Thread Starter
OK the break in info was from 928 Motorsports.
So should I use 20W/50 conventional with a zinc additive for the break in and then I can use a synthetic like Royal Purple or Mobil 1 15W/50 after?
I read that using synthetic in the break in will glaze the cylinder walls, is this a problem?
Does everyone dump the oil after the first ring seating to get rid of any metal particles and assembly lube, then change the oil again after 500 miles?
Thanks
So should I use 20W/50 conventional with a zinc additive for the break in and then I can use a synthetic like Royal Purple or Mobil 1 15W/50 after?
I read that using synthetic in the break in will glaze the cylinder walls, is this a problem?
Does everyone dump the oil after the first ring seating to get rid of any metal particles and assembly lube, then change the oil again after 500 miles?
Thanks
#6
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OK the break in info was from 928 Motorsports.
Greg Brown would probably use Torco (spelling) break in oil for his strokers. Hopefully he will chime in.
__________________
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
Last edited by ROG100; 10-03-2013 at 09:29 PM.
#7
I think I just figured out what car this is.................why the hell did you have that engine rebuilt?
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#9
#11
Former Vendor
#12
Rennlist Member
Ah okay.
But please Gentlemen, don't take that comment of mine as a slight. I hold *anyone* in high regard that spends countless hours on a flow bench! It is an art form. And whether they hone that combination of science and artistry on a Volkswagen head or a Porsche head is of insignificance in my eyes... please no offense.
But please Gentlemen, don't take that comment of mine as a slight. I hold *anyone* in high regard that spends countless hours on a flow bench! It is an art form. And whether they hone that combination of science and artistry on a Volkswagen head or a Porsche head is of insignificance in my eyes... please no offense.
#13
Former Vendor
Pour Torco TR-1 20/50 into it.
Change the oil filter after the initial "run in" (30 minutes)....especially important if you used any moly to assemble any part of the engine.
Change the oil and the filter after the first 1,000 miles.....with the same stuff.
Change the oil filter after the initial "run in" (30 minutes)....especially important if you used any moly to assemble any part of the engine.
Change the oil and the filter after the first 1,000 miles.....with the same stuff.
#15
Former Vendor
Ah okay.
But please Gentlemen, don't take that comment of mine as a slight. I hold *anyone* in high regard that spends countless hours on a flow bench! It is an art form. And whether they hone that combination of science and artistry on a Volkswagen head or a Porsche head is of insignificance in my eyes... please no offense.
But please Gentlemen, don't take that comment of mine as a slight. I hold *anyone* in high regard that spends countless hours on a flow bench! It is an art form. And whether they hone that combination of science and artistry on a Volkswagen head or a Porsche head is of insignificance in my eyes... please no offense.
As I recall, I ground a couple of heads into scrap metal, before I figured out what worked.