Barry Chan

First there is 11.56v to the plug.
Pump works directly to battery, pump also works with negative wire to plug and positive wire to jump post.
it works with both positive and negative wires in plug to voltmeter.
It just doesn't work with pump plugged in!!!
If there's no power on fuse #6, why is there power at the plug?
Why is there power at the plug but NONE as soon as the pump plugged in?
I use the voltmeter to the plug with almost 12v, hook up pump, volt dropped to zero!
I am going to give up for now, next order with Roger, i'll get the relay and new pump, if that still doesn't work, there must be a short somewhere, then it will go to a shop, thanks all.

Mrmerlin

you dont need a new pump,
a relay possibly,
but as Alan has suggested take the one you have apart and clean the contacts inside it then refit it.

Did you check to see if power is coming out of both wires on the back of the CE panel?
if you did check this and found only one wire with power then,
you should try to remove the wire from the back of the fuse holder and clean it,
this will probably restore proper function.

What your seeing with the volt meter is with no load IE using the volt meter you find 12V,
with a load the connections wont carry 12v due to dirty connections.

Alan

It is not a short. It is a high resistance in the circuit. Either corrosion at a connector, the fuse or the relay contacts. With a high resistance - no load makes everything look fine (a voltmeter takes almost no current so its ~ no load) when you load it with a low resistance like a motor - all the voltage is dropped over the high resistance leaving very little left across the load - thats what you are seeing. Its hard to understand unless you think about the whole circuit...

Waste of money getting a new pump, you might need a new relay but we don't know yet

For the fuse - you must be testing with the ignition in Accessory or Ignition posistions - the wipers only work in these position (which i was assuming you knew). Retest and confirm what you have?

Alan

Barry Chan

Thanks very much for being so patient, tommor i will check/clean the fuse holder, the wire behind CE panel, i never open a relay and clean so i am going to see if i know how, and clean the plug (not sure how cause it's so far down near the bottom of the reservoir)

WallyP

Barry,

Perhaps this will make what Alan and Stan are saying a bit clearer...

Suppose that your wire supplying power to the pump was almost broken in two at one point, and that there was only one tiny strand of wire connecting the two parts. If you tested with a voltmeter, you would have full or almost full battery voltage - but when you tried to run the pump, it would not run, because the single strand will not supply sufficient amperage.

Volts ain't amps. Volts are pressure, amps are quantity. A high-resistance connection - at the fuse, across the switch contacts, across relay contacts, etc., can give the same results.

Barry Chan

Found an old thread and begin to start with the switch, follow Stan advise and spray with cleaner, works just like before, thanks everyone, special thanks to Allan, Stan and wally, i think i learned and understand a lot about electrical, i also relocate the pump
Barry

Barry Chan

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...itch-test.html

this was the old thread

Alan

So Barry this was for the regular washers on the stalk? or for the intensive washers? - I never did understand which ones you were talking about?

Alan

Mrmerlin

Alan I think we are working on the regular washers he said the intensive was frozen solid.

Barry, make sure you remove both of the metal collars from the fill tube and the tank inlet, than wash out the tank.

This so rust wont get into the tank and clog the washers and or stain the hood with rusty spray.
when refitting the rubber transfer hose just make the clamps snug and it shouldnt leak

Alan

OK so if its the regular washers then its just the stalk switch (no relay) and contact resistance build up in the combination stalk switch could have caused this issue as described...

If the cleaning was just by spraying contact cleaner into the switch body without disassembly - its possible you may see the issues again over time. If you disassemble and mechanically clean them (gently) - you can get these contacts back to like new conditon rather easily. But getting the combo switch back together is still a challenge...

Alan

Barry Chan

it was the regular washer pump, i was going to swap but the int. one was no good.
Yes i will
if it happens again soon enough, will consider to take it apart but if a spray here and there over a few years then i am good with that, thanks again all!