jeff spahn

Hi
I am always the first to admit when I don't know something.

Well, I don't know something about testing the switch on my windshield washers.

I have done this:

Taken the pump out and applied direct power. It pumps.
Put a multimeter on the leads to the pump. It shows 12V, sometimes, but is it my connection. Let's see

When I pull back on the washer switch in the car sometimes the pump runs weakly, sometimes not at all, sometimes strongly.

I pulled the relay and cleaned the leads. It really didn't make any difference.

Can I jumper the relay from one pin on the relay to another? I was looking at the schematics and it might as well be brain surgery.

Before I drop $350 on a new switch, perhaps someone electrically gifted could tell me what to jumper on the CE panel to eliminate the switch from the equation and test from the relay panel down to the pump? Or am I missing something electrically obvious that I should be doing to see if it works. Also, perhaps someone could tell me what to jumper on the relay to test it and see if it is the issue.

Also, I have pulled all the hoses out, replaced the check valves and cleaned the nozzles. The washer barely squirt 1/4 way up the windscreen.

Thanks in advance. Want to get this fixed before I start on the interior rebuild.

Alan

Well - as a last resort the switches can be dismantled & R&R'd - though they are not designed for this and you must drill out the rivents, countersing the holes and replace with screws.

There is no relay for the main washer pump, it is directly driven by the column switch You can power CE pin C24 - this is the equivalent of the pull swicth being activated.

Alan


They fiddly to reassemble but all that is needed is contact cleaning for restoration.

Mrmerlin

before taking the switch apart put a towel under the switch and spray some elex contact cleaner into it,
work the switch this may let it work properly

jeff spahn

I'll give this a shot. Easy enough to try.

jeff spahn

Alan. As I said. I know nothing about relays and stuff. I tried to follow the wiring diagram and it showed a wire doing to my intensive relay and back out to the switch but it wasn't connected to a numbered part of the relay, just an "s" or a "t". What does that mean?

Alan

It goes to the intensive washer relay then chains to the intermittent wiper relay (or direct to that in models without intensive washer) - this causes the 3 wipes when you are washing... thats all, it chains through intensive wash since that also causes 3 wipes when you wash.

Alan

jeff spahn

Ahhh. I took the switch out, ran 1/2 a can of brake clean through it . . . just kidding, ran a ton of contact cleaner through it and I am able to get consistent pumping action. Now, once my hose arrives via Roger, I'll be able to finish putting the simplified hose setup that eliminates two check valves and takes it from 8 or 9 pieces of hose to 5. I am going to try the Acura NSX washer hose "y" fittings as they are much narrower and should facilitate putting the hose back in the hood.

Thanks for the help everyone. We'll see if this solves my washer dilemma.

Alan, I wish I could read electrical stuff like you. Doing work on my new Jetta TDI is much easier. Just plug in the Vag Com module and check off what you want. Now, if I want to get into auto wipers and auto headlights that will require a new highline CE panel. Don't know if I am ready for that just quite yet

jeff spahn

Well i got it to work for a bit. I powered pin c24 and the wipers went but no juice.

Gonna order a new pump from Roger. Sounds like this is the problem.

Thanks everyone.

jeff spahn

Well I am back to square 0. I put the new pump in and it sprays about as hard as a 90 year old man going pee. I replaced all the lines, the check valves and the pump. I have cleaned out the nozzles with a dental probe. Still intermittent washing.
Thoughts? I would really like to have washers that spray like my Jetta or my Acura MDX, you know, like make it to the glass and not dribble out on the hood.

Alan

Well given what you've tried sounds like a bad ground connection for the pump is the next most likely suspect... Ground Point GP V behind/above the CE panel - clean & tighten

Alan

Rob Edwards

Is this the high intensity pump or the main pump? How much rusty crap and gook is sitting in the bottom of your (main) washer fluid reservoir? I wanted to take a shower after pulling my tank and washer fluid level sensor out of the GTS, it was foul.

Maybe it's just showering junk into your new pump and lines?


Your alternative is to move to SoCal, so all this silly washer stuff becomes superfluous.

jeff spahn

I cleaned the tank and removed the steel insert a couple years ago.

I tried the SoCal thing, found my Spanish and Vietnamese wasn't up to par. Also didn't like the traffic.

jeff spahn

will do that tonight if I get my MDX intake done.