Brake problem / question

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Sep 15, 2013 | 07:40 PM

AirtekHVAC

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From: China Grove, NC

Brake problem / question

Problem: finally got clutch master in, and brazed the broken clutch slave hard line. Added fluid to reservoir, and went to crack open the first bleeder....I have been soaking the bleeders in kroil for months....well, it snapped right off with very little pressure....I have been expecting and experiencing this anyway, due to all the rust under the car, but it is disheartening...

So....how do I get the broken piece of the bleeder out? Heat caliper with torch? I have drill out / extractor kits, but don't want to damage the caliper threads...

OR...

Will the calipers from an 84 16v fit my OB without modification? I got a parts car sitting here.....

Input please!

Thanks.

Sep 15, 2013 | 08:21 PM

dr bob

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From: Bend, Oregon

The drill/extractor method works, but the most critical concern is he end of the bleeder where it seats in the caliper. That taper is easily damaged while drilling, and there's no good way to restore the seat once gouged by a drill bit. Take a careful look at a bleeder, and see that the holes in the end come in from the sides. the end of the bleeder is solid, with taper that matches the bottom of the threaded hole in the caliper body. There just isn't room for error.

Recommendation: Grab a MAPP gas torch or similar, and heat-cycle the caliper at the bleeder screw a few times. Then get it hot as you use a screw extractor (no drilling) to pressure the threads on the bleeder out.

If you must drill, do it in a drill press where you can limit the travel of the quill and not get into the bottom of the hole. Caliper clamped securely, quill set to limit depth, and drill carefully. Left-hand drill bits help here, but keep in mind the bleeder screw is probably tougher metal than the caliper housing. For sure that's true on the aluminum 4-pot Brembos 86.5+.

Sep 15, 2013 | 08:24 PM

dr bob

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And the steel hydraulic line is a commodity item at almost any good parts place. You can bend it carefully over your thumbs, avoiding kinks. Comes in various lengths already flared, and amazingly cheaper and more reliable than brazing the old line.

Sep 15, 2013 | 08:27 PM

The Forgotten On

Nordschleife Master

Joined: May 2012

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From: Thousand Oaks California

The rear calipers from an 84 will work the fronts will not as the spindles they attach to are different,
Good luck on fixing the other problems.

Sep 15, 2013 | 09:30 PM

AirtekHVAC

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From: China Grove, NC

Thanks guys...

I want to replace the hard line with a stainless / braided line, If I can find the right one....my patched one will work for now...since she wont go far on lift bars....

The broken one is on the rear..so I might be in luck! Of course, I have not looked at the ones on the donor...they might be bad too!

Sep 15, 2013 | 09:34 PM

AirtekHVAC

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From: China Grove, NC

Here is my damaged one....I will try the heat / extractor method first....Thanks again Dr. Bob!

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Sep 16, 2013 | 08:28 PM

michael j wright

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From: carthage,mo

Those calipers need to come off and be cleaned up anyway. With all that rust on them, they won't slide like they should and tend to cause braking problems.