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Heads and Gaskets guidance

 
Old 08-31-2013, 02:41 AM
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LazerSquid
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Default Heads and Gaskets guidance

Hey everybody, I promise I tried the search function but I couldn't find anything so I'm posting this.

My beautiful 1984 928S blew a head gasket(s?) and is now blowing white smoke and barely has enough power to idle. Tomorrow I'll be confirming with a hydrocarbon test, but I need guidance on how to repair the damage. I've already decided on using the Graphite-Composite Steel head gaskets from 928 Motorsports, but that's about all I know. Is this a repair that I can do myself? I don't have a way of pulling the engine so if that has to be done I'll be putting it in storage until I can afford a mechanics fees. I'm assuming that this problem was caused by; overfilling the oil by about 1 quart, and overheating a few times (pegged the red because I'm retarded). Could I have done any un-repairable damage? if so, how could I diagnose?

The pre-failure symptoms were

* over-heating due to failure to move coolant properly caused by
- PO removing the T-stat
- Air gaps in radiator hoses
- non-functioning auxillary fan
* one of the cylinders not firing after engine warmed up (would fire and run smoothly again after turning the car off and restarting)

Now to when it happened. I had just gotten back from a short drive to pay closer attention to what happened directly before the one cylinder stopped firing. The temp gauge hit the second mark right as I parked it in the garage. After I parked it I put the e-brake on and the Trans in neutral to check ATF levels. After I checked the ATF level I got back in the car to turn it off. Then I popped the hood and started squeezing the radiator lines to try to massage some of the air pockets out which I could hear was working. After I got done with that I hopped in and re-started the car (it started idling smoothly on all cylinders after that) and no more than 30 seconds later I heard the auxiliary fan kick in, and watched the temp gauge drop from the second mark to the first mark, and then a few seconds later it started pouring bellows of white smoke out of the exhaust. It still idled on all cylinders (if you left it idling for about 2 minutes it would start running smoothly again) after it was bellowing white smoke, but it scared me ****less so I shut it off.

So I'm also wondering if the auxiliary fan working again had anything to do with it? I also noticed that the fog lights started working again after that (I'm assuming that it was relay failure?). I also need to know what parts I'm going to need, if I can do this repair with the engine still in the car, and if there is a detailed guide on doing this? I really just need any guidance that you guys are willing to give me. I'm a college student so I have a very limited budget, but I'm very mechanically inclined (I used to own a lot of vintage motorcycles and I rebuilt the engines on most of them. I also did a lot of work on an MG Midget I owned before the porsche) so if I don't have to pull the engine I know this is something I could do myself, but again, I really need guidance; this is my first time owning a porsche.

Thank you in advanced for any help!

Last edited by LazerSquid; 08-31-2013 at 02:45 AM. Reason: forgot part of the story
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Old 08-31-2013, 03:01 AM
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MainePorsche
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If you don't have the 928 Workshop Manuals, here they are online. I believe they are pdf's, so you can save them.

http://www.2010.cannell.co.uk/manual...s_porsche.html

Here are two links which may be helpful.

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ferrerid=34007

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...r+head+removal
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Old 08-31-2013, 03:03 AM
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You will most likely need to pull the engine, you can do it with the engine still in the car but there is basically no room, so yes you will regret doing that. There are two lift points on the engine to help with removal. Buy an engine hoist and stand (they cost less than the mechanic) and do it your self. There are plenty of other jobs to do like the timing belt and water pump and various gaskets to replace while they are easy to get to. Have the engine deck and heads checked for flatness too, the overheating could have in the worst case, warped your engine beyond repair. Good luck with the repair.
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Old 08-31-2013, 03:33 AM
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MP; You have absolutely no idea how hard I've been looking for those manuals!! Thankyou so much. I downloaded all of the different sections (I think I have about 3000 pages of information to read now haha)

TFO; I don't want to pull the engine because I don't really have the means to do that. Is there not any way that I could remove the fenders or something instead? That seems a lot more feasible for my situation.
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Old 08-31-2013, 03:37 AM
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I wish you well with this job. Knock on wood, I've never had to pull the engine up to this point but I have done quite a bit else. Some of the Masters will chime in to help with this job.
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Old 08-31-2013, 04:08 AM
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The hard part will be getting the cam housings off, after that the heads aren't too bad to get off, just remember the heads use studs and not bolts. You WILL struggle to get the cam housings off as there is little room and removing the fenders doesn't add any room or access to the engine. Keep track of removing parts as some are hard to get a hold of and replace all consumable items being removed. Good luck with the repair.
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Old 08-31-2013, 07:08 AM
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What led you to making that parts selection?
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Old 08-31-2013, 10:15 AM
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Have you ever changed a head gasket on any car? Are you confident in you abilities to pull this off? I think you are better off using stock style had gaskets.
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Old 08-31-2013, 10:55 AM
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I have never changed a head gasket on a car, but plenty of motorcycles, and there was a first for those too (got it right the first time). The reason I'm going with the graphite composite steel gaskets is because it has a fire ring made with modern, more reliable, tougher materials and processes. I just don't see why I would use a stock gasket designed and produced with materials and technologies from 1984 (almost 30 years old!) when I could put something a little bit more modern and reliable in it.

If it ain't broke, I'll fix it 'til it is
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Old 08-31-2013, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by LazerSquid View Post
I have never changed a head gasket on a car, but plenty of motorcycles, and there was a first for those too (got it right the first time). The reason I'm going with the graphite composite steel gaskets is because it has a fire ring made with modern, more reliable, tougher materials and processes. I just don't see why I would use a stock gasket designed and produced with materials and technologies from 1984 (almost 30 years old!) when I could put something a little bit more modern and reliable in it.

If it ain't broke, I'll fix it 'til it is
Thee ole college spirit !
Lazer, take heed to what some of the Masters say about 928 matters before you dive in.
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Old 08-31-2013, 11:01 AM
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Pull the motor, it will be easier in the long run.
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Old 08-31-2013, 11:06 AM
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I can not pull the motor. I either fix it myself with the motor in, or a pay for somebody else to do it, which would mean putting the car in storage for a few months til I can afford it.

If it ain't broke, I'll fix it 'til it is
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Old 08-31-2013, 11:16 AM
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Can not and will not are different. A hoist is way cheaper than paying a mechanic.
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Old 08-31-2013, 11:45 AM
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Maybe he lives in an apartment, and only has 1 space? Make a friend who has a garage?
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Old 08-31-2013, 11:48 AM
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MainePorsche
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Lazer,
Here's some good transmission pdf's if you ever need them. Hopefully you won't.

http://www.w124performance.com/docs/...2_Mitchell.pdf

http://www.w124performance.com/docs/...722_repair.pdf
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