Heads and Gaskets guidance
#1
Heads and Gaskets guidance
Hey everybody, I promise I tried the search function but I couldn't find anything so I'm posting this.
My beautiful 1984 928S blew a head gasket(s?) and is now blowing white smoke and barely has enough power to idle. Tomorrow I'll be confirming with a hydrocarbon test, but I need guidance on how to repair the damage. I've already decided on using the Graphite-Composite Steel head gaskets from 928 Motorsports, but that's about all I know. Is this a repair that I can do myself? I don't have a way of pulling the engine so if that has to be done I'll be putting it in storage until I can afford a mechanics fees. I'm assuming that this problem was caused by; overfilling the oil by about 1 quart, and overheating a few times (pegged the red because I'm retarded). Could I have done any un-repairable damage? if so, how could I diagnose?
The pre-failure symptoms were
* over-heating due to failure to move coolant properly caused by
- PO removing the T-stat
- Air gaps in radiator hoses
- non-functioning auxillary fan
* one of the cylinders not firing after engine warmed up (would fire and run smoothly again after turning the car off and restarting)
Now to when it happened. I had just gotten back from a short drive to pay closer attention to what happened directly before the one cylinder stopped firing. The temp gauge hit the second mark right as I parked it in the garage. After I parked it I put the e-brake on and the Trans in neutral to check ATF levels. After I checked the ATF level I got back in the car to turn it off. Then I popped the hood and started squeezing the radiator lines to try to massage some of the air pockets out which I could hear was working. After I got done with that I hopped in and re-started the car (it started idling smoothly on all cylinders after that) and no more than 30 seconds later I heard the auxiliary fan kick in, and watched the temp gauge drop from the second mark to the first mark, and then a few seconds later it started pouring bellows of white smoke out of the exhaust. It still idled on all cylinders (if you left it idling for about 2 minutes it would start running smoothly again) after it was bellowing white smoke, but it scared me ****less so I shut it off.
So I'm also wondering if the auxiliary fan working again had anything to do with it? I also noticed that the fog lights started working again after that (I'm assuming that it was relay failure?). I also need to know what parts I'm going to need, if I can do this repair with the engine still in the car, and if there is a detailed guide on doing this? I really just need any guidance that you guys are willing to give me. I'm a college student so I have a very limited budget, but I'm very mechanically inclined (I used to own a lot of vintage motorcycles and I rebuilt the engines on most of them. I also did a lot of work on an MG Midget I owned before the porsche) so if I don't have to pull the engine I know this is something I could do myself, but again, I really need guidance; this is my first time owning a porsche.
Thank you in advanced for any help!
My beautiful 1984 928S blew a head gasket(s?) and is now blowing white smoke and barely has enough power to idle. Tomorrow I'll be confirming with a hydrocarbon test, but I need guidance on how to repair the damage. I've already decided on using the Graphite-Composite Steel head gaskets from 928 Motorsports, but that's about all I know. Is this a repair that I can do myself? I don't have a way of pulling the engine so if that has to be done I'll be putting it in storage until I can afford a mechanics fees. I'm assuming that this problem was caused by; overfilling the oil by about 1 quart, and overheating a few times (pegged the red because I'm retarded). Could I have done any un-repairable damage? if so, how could I diagnose?
The pre-failure symptoms were
* over-heating due to failure to move coolant properly caused by
- PO removing the T-stat
- Air gaps in radiator hoses
- non-functioning auxillary fan
* one of the cylinders not firing after engine warmed up (would fire and run smoothly again after turning the car off and restarting)
Now to when it happened. I had just gotten back from a short drive to pay closer attention to what happened directly before the one cylinder stopped firing. The temp gauge hit the second mark right as I parked it in the garage. After I parked it I put the e-brake on and the Trans in neutral to check ATF levels. After I checked the ATF level I got back in the car to turn it off. Then I popped the hood and started squeezing the radiator lines to try to massage some of the air pockets out which I could hear was working. After I got done with that I hopped in and re-started the car (it started idling smoothly on all cylinders after that) and no more than 30 seconds later I heard the auxiliary fan kick in, and watched the temp gauge drop from the second mark to the first mark, and then a few seconds later it started pouring bellows of white smoke out of the exhaust. It still idled on all cylinders (if you left it idling for about 2 minutes it would start running smoothly again) after it was bellowing white smoke, but it scared me ****less so I shut it off.
So I'm also wondering if the auxiliary fan working again had anything to do with it? I also noticed that the fog lights started working again after that (I'm assuming that it was relay failure?). I also need to know what parts I'm going to need, if I can do this repair with the engine still in the car, and if there is a detailed guide on doing this? I really just need any guidance that you guys are willing to give me. I'm a college student so I have a very limited budget, but I'm very mechanically inclined (I used to own a lot of vintage motorcycles and I rebuilt the engines on most of them. I also did a lot of work on an MG Midget I owned before the porsche) so if I don't have to pull the engine I know this is something I could do myself, but again, I really need guidance; this is my first time owning a porsche.
Thank you in advanced for any help!
Last edited by LazerSquid; 08-31-2013 at 02:45 AM. Reason: forgot part of the story
#2
Nordschleife Master
If you don't have the 928 Workshop Manuals, here they are online. I believe they are pdf's, so you can save them.
http://www.2010.cannell.co.uk/manual...s_porsche.html
Here are two links which may be helpful.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ferrerid=34007
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...r+head+removal
http://www.2010.cannell.co.uk/manual...s_porsche.html
Here are two links which may be helpful.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ferrerid=34007
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...r+head+removal
#3
Rennlist Member
You will most likely need to pull the engine, you can do it with the engine still in the car but there is basically no room, so yes you will regret doing that. There are two lift points on the engine to help with removal. Buy an engine hoist and stand (they cost less than the mechanic) and do it your self. There are plenty of other jobs to do like the timing belt and water pump and various gaskets to replace while they are easy to get to. Have the engine deck and heads checked for flatness too, the overheating could have in the worst case, warped your engine beyond repair. Good luck with the repair.
#4
MP; You have absolutely no idea how hard I've been looking for those manuals!! Thankyou so much. I downloaded all of the different sections (I think I have about 3000 pages of information to read now haha)
TFO; I don't want to pull the engine because I don't really have the means to do that. Is there not any way that I could remove the fenders or something instead? That seems a lot more feasible for my situation.
TFO; I don't want to pull the engine because I don't really have the means to do that. Is there not any way that I could remove the fenders or something instead? That seems a lot more feasible for my situation.
#5
Nordschleife Master
I wish you well with this job. Knock on wood, I've never had to pull the engine up to this point but I have done quite a bit else. Some of the Masters will chime in to help with this job.
#6
Rennlist Member
The hard part will be getting the cam housings off, after that the heads aren't too bad to get off, just remember the heads use studs and not bolts. You WILL struggle to get the cam housings off as there is little room and removing the fenders doesn't add any room or access to the engine. Keep track of removing parts as some are hard to get a hold of and replace all consumable items being removed. Good luck with the repair.
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#8
Captain Obvious
Super User
Super User
Have you ever changed a head gasket on any car? Are you confident in you abilities to pull this off? I think you are better off using stock style had gaskets.
#9
I have never changed a head gasket on a car, but plenty of motorcycles, and there was a first for those too (got it right the first time). The reason I'm going with the graphite composite steel gaskets is because it has a fire ring made with modern, more reliable, tougher materials and processes. I just don't see why I would use a stock gasket designed and produced with materials and technologies from 1984 (almost 30 years old!) when I could put something a little bit more modern and reliable in it.
If it ain't broke, I'll fix it 'til it is
If it ain't broke, I'll fix it 'til it is
#10
Nordschleife Master
I have never changed a head gasket on a car, but plenty of motorcycles, and there was a first for those too (got it right the first time). The reason I'm going with the graphite composite steel gaskets is because it has a fire ring made with modern, more reliable, tougher materials and processes. I just don't see why I would use a stock gasket designed and produced with materials and technologies from 1984 (almost 30 years old!) when I could put something a little bit more modern and reliable in it.
If it ain't broke, I'll fix it 'til it is
If it ain't broke, I'll fix it 'til it is
Lazer, take heed to what some of the Masters say about 928 matters before you dive in.
#12
I can not pull the motor. I either fix it myself with the motor in, or a pay for somebody else to do it, which would mean putting the car in storage for a few months til I can afford it.
If it ain't broke, I'll fix it 'til it is
If it ain't broke, I'll fix it 'til it is
#15
Nordschleife Master
Lazer,
Here's some good transmission pdf's if you ever need them. Hopefully you won't.
http://www.w124performance.com/docs/...2_Mitchell.pdf
http://www.w124performance.com/docs/...722_repair.pdf
Here's some good transmission pdf's if you ever need them. Hopefully you won't.
http://www.w124performance.com/docs/...2_Mitchell.pdf
http://www.w124performance.com/docs/...722_repair.pdf