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Heads and Gaskets guidance

 
Old 08-31-2013, 03:41 PM
  #31  
LazerSquid
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The smoke smells more like oil, not sweet at all. My first thought when I smelled it was that it smelled like raw bread dough.

If it ain't broke, I'll fix it 'til it is
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Old 08-31-2013, 03:46 PM
  #32  
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you would be wise to remove the plugs take a picture and post it,
then do a compression test,
then remove the aircleaner and inspect the intake for oil puddles,
you may be sucking oil into the intake and not have a HG issue.
but rather a water pump /thermostat issue.

It would also be a good idea to get another 928 mechanic to look at your car,
as misdiagnosis will only cause you to fix something that may not be broken,
we can only do so much on guessing ,
the more info you provide adds to the diagnosis being closer to correct for your situation
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Old 08-31-2013, 03:55 PM
  #33  
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Sure looks like coolant to me. Easy test: is the coolant level dropping and are there any shiny/white/wet spark plugs.
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Old 08-31-2013, 04:02 PM
  #34  
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I'll pull the Plugs tomorrow night, but could you please explain the water pump/thermostat theory to me? That would make sense because I seriously doubt the water pump is moving coolant, and that I got the correct thermostat, but yesterday the aux fan kicked on like it started moving water over the sensor finally, but then today, it's not smoking nearly as much, and the aux fan isn't coming again, and I don't feel any current when I squeeze the rad-hoses. I would just like to understand that theory a little more is all. A new water pump and tstat housing rebuild would be a cheap thing to try before pulling the engine, and it needs both either way. And again, it's not entirely white, it a light grey (I know the pictures don't show that) and it reminds me more of my two stroke bikes than steam.

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Old 08-31-2013, 04:15 PM
  #35  
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Are the radiator hoses getting wam/hot? If both the upper and lower hoses yo the rafiator are getting warm/hot then you are moving water.
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Old 08-31-2013, 04:27 PM
  #36  
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Please follow to the letter what I posted in post 32,
after you do that please post the results of what you found .

NOTE you keep asking for answers and provide no information on what has already been suggested to do,
if you wont follow these directions it will become a cat chasing its tail repair procedure,
and nothing will be diagnosed and or fixed properly
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Old 08-31-2013, 04:39 PM
  #37  
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Alright, so I'm on my lunch break right now, and I just checked the coolant and oil, and there's definitely plenty of coolant in the oil; the coolant was about a quart lower, and the oil is now about a quart over the max fill line, and very watery (dripping off of the dipstick) I'm kinda scared that this means cracked block?? Please tell me this is something less catastrophic! Also, the top line is hot when it's running, and the bottom line is warm, but definitely not hot. Any ideas on what this means? I'll do run down and compression tests as soon as I can buy the tools, but until then I'm hoping we can make some sense of the symptoms I just described?

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Old 08-31-2013, 04:41 PM
  #38  
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Mrmerlin, I will be doing the tests and following your instructions, but I've been working all weekend and the soonest I'll be able to buy the necessary tooling will be Tuesday, until then I'm trying to gather as much information and possible problems as I can so I know everything I can do to diagnose things on Tuesday. I'm sorry if dealing with me is frustrating but I really do appreciate all of the information and tips you guys are giving me.

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Old 08-31-2013, 06:32 PM
  #39  
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Can anybody explain the water pump theory, or why I have a quart of coolant in my sump? Again, I'm not looking for definitive answers or solutions, I'm looking for as many possible things that could be causing my problems, so that on Tuesday I can buy all the tools I need and do all of the proper testing. I'm just trying to provide as much information as I possibly can with the time I have to work on the car.

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Old 08-31-2013, 07:07 PM
  #40  
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Is'nt there a good supply of used 16 valve engines out there? Maybe consider saving up and buying a parts car that has a known good running engine?
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Old 08-31-2013, 07:19 PM
  #41  
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There are a lot of cars out there for $1-2K and engines for the same or less. You just have to look around. I love in the northeast and I found 10 within 250 miles of me in that category. Heck I bought a complete running 5 speed euro shark for $2k and picked up another engine and 5 speed for $650.
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Old 08-31-2013, 07:28 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by LazerSquid View Post
Can anybody explain the water pump theory, or why I have a quart of coolant in my sump? Again, I'm not looking for definitive answers or solutions, I'm looking for as many possible things that could be causing my problems, so that on Tuesday I can buy all the tools I need and do all of the proper testing. I'm just trying to provide as much information as I possibly can with the time I have to work on the car.

If it ain't broke, I'll fix it 'til it is


The coolant in the oil seals the deal -- You have blown a headgasket and/or a cracked head or block. The lubrication for the cams in the heads is passed through ports in the same head gasket the coolant passes through. If the gasket fails between the coolant passage and an oil drain, then coolant will flow through failed section.

The heads and block are aluminum, and are very sensitive to coolant quality. Most coolants slowly change pH as they age in the block, turning acidic over time. Some have buffers in them to extend the time. Most coolants need to changed annually to be sure that the effects are minimized. Casual owners may not be aware of the requirement, especilly since the failures don't show up right away. There are horror stories about cars that have been sitting parked for years, only to find your symptoms when restarted years later. On opening, the metal around the coolant passages is so corroded by the aged coolant that there isn't enough left to hold a gasket.

-----

With coolant in the oil, DO NOT try and start the engine again. Coolant is a poor lubricant on its own, and mixed with oil will quickly cause bearing and bore damage in the engine. Drain the oil and the cooling system now to at least stop the chemical damage.

You may decide to pull a head with the engine in place, but it really is easier to pull the engine to do this. You'll have a chance to evaluate the condition of the block and heads, plus the crank main and rod bearings that have been washed with coolant and run now hot without oil lubrication.

There are often 16v engines available used from various places. 928 International has them ready to ship. Traditionally, they offer a 50%-off sale between Thanksgiving and New Years. I recommend that you call Tom or Mark and discuss options. It will be way less than what I see as needed to try and recover the engine you have. They sell all the parts and pieces you'll need if you decide to try and stay with the engine you have.

Regardless of which of those ways you go, get the old engine out and pull the heads to see what's been damaged. If everything is magically OK, you'll need a gasket set to put it all back together and should buy a lottery ticket.

Good luck with your project!
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Old 08-31-2013, 11:54 PM
  #43  
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Ahh coolant in the oil,

Disconnect the battery

As Dr Bob said, dont run the engine anymore,
or crank it for a compression test,
drain the oil and coolant,

forget about a water pump for now and remove the engine from the car.
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Old 09-01-2013, 12:13 AM
  #44  
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Am afraid to ask how much you spent on this so far. (Hopefully much less than when I brought home an 84 basket case of my own 6 years ago)

But I can tell you that solid running, very presentable mid year car would set you back about $4200. Less if you really hunt. Then it will still require about $2000 of refresh, they all do at that price point.

Here, you are looking at a major engine repair or replacement. Not sure the tranny condition, but the interior is a bit of a mess and its a repaint.

Major league enthusiasts are posting to your thread and will help lead you through.

But based on your comments about not having indoor space to work and key tools, make strong consideration of punting.

Last edited by Landseer; 09-01-2013 at 09:29 AM.
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Old 09-01-2013, 03:32 PM
  #45  
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I bought it for $1000 without a title. I'm halfway through the process of having a title granted to me by the state, so maybe that could help. How much would it be worth? My dream is to own a 5spd version...

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