Front Evaporator Cleaning Question.
#16
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Sorry I can't take pics. My kids left the SLR in the rain.
Mine was in good shape to begin with, but now 100 % of the surface is shiny and silver.
Mine was in good shape to begin with, but now 100 % of the surface is shiny and silver.
#17
Rennlist Member
I've completely disassembled my HVAC system and wondered what you guys think is the best way to clean the evaporator outside of the car. I would not recommend taking the system completely apart unless you really need to like say if a rat died inside of it..... or it smells like that. No wonder the AC shop said they wont work in 928s.
#18
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
I've completely disassembled my HVAC system and wondered what you guys think is the best way to clean the evaporator outside of the car. I would not recommend taking the system completely apart unless you really need to like say if a rat died inside of it..... or it smells like that. No wonder the AC shop said they wont work in 928s.
I would still use hot water, ac coil cleaning foam, and a brush like I mentioned above. The advantage of having it out is that you can use all the hot water you want to loosen the soilage.
#19
Rennlist Member
Great! the main reason I have it out is so I don't have to repair anything anytime in the next 15 years. I want it to work at its best and thanks for the great tip MainePorsche. I plan on making it spotless so I don't get little bits of dust flying in my face because most 928s lack a particle filter. All I can say is my HVAC system was stuffed with leaves.
#20
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Great! the main reason I have it out is so I don't have to repair anything anytime in the next 15 years. I want it to work at its best and thanks for the great tip MainePorsche. I plan on making it spotless so I don't get little bits of dust flying in my face because most 928s lack a particle filter. All I can say is my HVAC system was stuffed with leaves.
#21
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Can you describe it's location a bit more?
Any pictures on Tony's site that show it?
http://members.rennlist.com/v1uhoh/underthe.htm
#22
Team Owner
Randy you would open the hood then remove the cowl cover,
then on the right side of the car push the rubber connector off the the air duct,
then you can see the evaporator located at the center of the car,
It is easier of you remove the blower motor,
and might even go so far as removing the hood.
then on the right side of the car push the rubber connector off the the air duct,
then you can see the evaporator located at the center of the car,
It is easier of you remove the blower motor,
and might even go so far as removing the hood.
#23
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Randy,
Sorry about that. I glossed over the units location.
If you are going to remove the blower motor, there are 3 hex bolts. One easy on Right front of fan housing under the cowl (22). Second is accessed by removing the rubber boot between it and the evaporator housing (22). Third one is on grill of recirculator vent above the shelf in the passenger footwell (23). This is a long bolt.
You can remove blower... or not.
Sorry about that. I glossed over the units location.
If you are going to remove the blower motor, there are 3 hex bolts. One easy on Right front of fan housing under the cowl (22). Second is accessed by removing the rubber boot between it and the evaporator housing (22). Third one is on grill of recirculator vent above the shelf in the passenger footwell (23). This is a long bolt.
You can remove blower... or not.
#24
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Randy--
Getting the boot off as the others described is a great way to get access for tools and the vacuum cleaner hose. The resistor pack for the blower motor is mounted on the forward face of that same duct going across to the evaporator. You'll want to get that out so it doesn't get damaged, plus it gives you a portal for viewing and spraying directly forward of the evaporator surface.
To remove the resistor, I use one of those multi-fingered pick-up tools, the one with the button on the end of a flexi section, and little metal grabber fingers on the other end. Reach through from the boot end of the duct, and get the grabber fingers onto the resistor pack. Pull the electrical connector, and the holding screws. Stuff a rag under the front edge to catch the screws, or they fall into the cowl pan. Then pull the resistor pack out. Your GTS has the cabin air filter that you'll deal with when the boot comes off.
The coil cleaner is a caustic cleaner/degreaser that foams to lift the contaminants from the aluminum surface. As others mention, it's a good idea to get the big stuff brushed loose and vacuumed out before you use the foam, since you want it to get behind and under as much of the dirt cake as possible. The foam does a good job floating the crud out. You'll vacuum out as much as you can, then gently flush the rest down and out through the condensate drain onto the floor under the car. You probably want to pull the rear tray from under the car, and put a plastic dishpan or similar there to catch the fall-out.
Point of interest: Your GTS car has a cabin air filter that catches the dust and crud in the airflow before it gets to the evaporator. The dirt that accumulates and eventually cakes on the condenser would have to get past that filter, and that shouldn't be very much at all. You will likely find, after pulling the resistor pack and inspecting the coil surface, that your evaporator needs little if any cleaning.
Getting the boot off as the others described is a great way to get access for tools and the vacuum cleaner hose. The resistor pack for the blower motor is mounted on the forward face of that same duct going across to the evaporator. You'll want to get that out so it doesn't get damaged, plus it gives you a portal for viewing and spraying directly forward of the evaporator surface.
To remove the resistor, I use one of those multi-fingered pick-up tools, the one with the button on the end of a flexi section, and little metal grabber fingers on the other end. Reach through from the boot end of the duct, and get the grabber fingers onto the resistor pack. Pull the electrical connector, and the holding screws. Stuff a rag under the front edge to catch the screws, or they fall into the cowl pan. Then pull the resistor pack out. Your GTS has the cabin air filter that you'll deal with when the boot comes off.
The coil cleaner is a caustic cleaner/degreaser that foams to lift the contaminants from the aluminum surface. As others mention, it's a good idea to get the big stuff brushed loose and vacuumed out before you use the foam, since you want it to get behind and under as much of the dirt cake as possible. The foam does a good job floating the crud out. You'll vacuum out as much as you can, then gently flush the rest down and out through the condensate drain onto the floor under the car. You probably want to pull the rear tray from under the car, and put a plastic dishpan or similar there to catch the fall-out.
Point of interest: Your GTS car has a cabin air filter that catches the dust and crud in the airflow before it gets to the evaporator. The dirt that accumulates and eventually cakes on the condenser would have to get past that filter, and that shouldn't be very much at all. You will likely find, after pulling the resistor pack and inspecting the coil surface, that your evaporator needs little if any cleaning.
#25
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Randy (and others),
Be sure that rubber sleeve that joins the fan housing and the evaporator housing is re-fit back well. If it is not, this will be a portal to have junk enter and be blown into your newly cleaned evaporator.
Be sure that rubber sleeve that joins the fan housing and the evaporator housing is re-fit back well. If it is not, this will be a portal to have junk enter and be blown into your newly cleaned evaporator.
#26
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Thanks, Bob and Maine (got a first name?).
Do I have to remove the hood to remove the blower motor?
I can't see an easy way to access the motor's fasteners and it looks like the blower has to be removed in order to remove the rubber sleeve.
Do I have to remove the hood to remove the blower motor?
I can't see an easy way to access the motor's fasteners and it looks like the blower has to be removed in order to remove the rubber sleeve.
#27
Rennlist Member
Here's the link to get the blower motor out. Worth the effort (see the OP's pictures):
https://rennlist.com/forums/928/4650...vaporator.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/928/4650...vaporator.html
#28
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Leave the blower.
You CAN remove the rubber sleeve enough by releasing it from the evaporator side, and having it out of your way so you can get yourself into the evaporator chamber. You'll basically kind of bunch it up on the blower side. If you completely took it off, it may be a PITA to get back on. I was going to take the blower out (looked like it could be done without removing the hood), but on Alan's recommendation, I just got the rubber sleeve out of the way and it worked out just fine. Leave the fan alone - don't need to remove it for this one.
Craig
#29
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OK, will keep blower in place.
Having taken a peek inside there, the evaporator does look pretty clean as the Doctor supposes.
I'm thinking the foam cleaner will help freshen the AC air.
A tip I learned from my previous BMW is to turn the AC off a half mile or so before reaching my destination, keeping the blower running.
This evaporates any residual condensate water that would allow mold to grow in the system.
Having taken a peek inside there, the evaporator does look pretty clean as the Doctor supposes.
I'm thinking the foam cleaner will help freshen the AC air.
A tip I learned from my previous BMW is to turn the AC off a half mile or so before reaching my destination, keeping the blower running.
This evaporates any residual condensate water that would allow mold to grow in the system.
#30
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter