Front Evaporator Cleaning Question.
#1
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Front Evaporator Cleaning Question.
Guys,
I want to clean out the evaporator from up top. As I've researched, there are 3 bolts I have to remove to make the fan mobile to facilitate access into the evaporator chamber. Two are up top. One bolt goes into the fan case from below. I've read someone who says you have to remove the glove box. I did that and I don't see any bolts to remove.
To access this bolt do I remove the grill for the redistribution box above the CE panel ? Is this what was meant ?
Thanks in Advance.
Craig
I want to clean out the evaporator from up top. As I've researched, there are 3 bolts I have to remove to make the fan mobile to facilitate access into the evaporator chamber. Two are up top. One bolt goes into the fan case from below. I've read someone who says you have to remove the glove box. I did that and I don't see any bolts to remove.
To access this bolt do I remove the grill for the redistribution box above the CE panel ? Is this what was meant ?
Thanks in Advance.
Craig
#2
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Or...
Can the fan housing be rotated, on this lower bolts axis, counter clockwise to give access to the evaporator chamber after the two top bolts removed ?
Add: I think not. I've just had a look at PET again, and note there is a gasket that can be jeopardized if I were to do this.
Can the fan housing be rotated, on this lower bolts axis, counter clockwise to give access to the evaporator chamber after the two top bolts removed ?
Add: I think not. I've just had a look at PET again, and note there is a gasket that can be jeopardized if I were to do this.
Last edited by MainePorsche; 08-22-2013 at 12:05 PM. Reason: Research
#3
Pro
You don't have to remove the glove box. Just look under it near the middle to see the bolt. You can tell which bolt it is because it will not be symmetrically placed relative to the rest of the trim fasteners iirc. When you remove it you'll see it is pretty long.
Once you get access I'd vacuum the area out first. You can place a small pen light, like one of those little free HF flashlights and lay it down in there to see what you are doing. Before taking cleaning fluid or a hose to it, test to make sure the drain is flowing ok and that no water is going into the car.
Everything will smell nice and fresh when you are done. This is a worthwhile maintenance item to do periodically.
Once you get access I'd vacuum the area out first. You can place a small pen light, like one of those little free HF flashlights and lay it down in there to see what you are doing. Before taking cleaning fluid or a hose to it, test to make sure the drain is flowing ok and that no water is going into the car.
Everything will smell nice and fresh when you are done. This is a worthwhile maintenance item to do periodically.
#4
Pro
I don't remember having to remove anything from inside the car to access the bolt. You'll need to be able to lay on your back on the seat with a flashlight to see it.
#5
Rennlist Member
I cleaned the evaporator from the outside of the car. Took the blower motor out, vac'd out all the leaves and what appeared to be a guinea pig's entire mop of hair. Then I got a/c coil cleaner and cleaned the coils. Now it doesn't smell nasty in the car with the air on and it blows much colder.
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#8
Rennlist Member
What he said ^^^^. I have done that a few times. I first use a detailing bronze wire brush following the fins to knock off the dirt followed by a homemade vacuum attachment to remove the debris.
#10
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
You don't have to remove the glove box. Just look under it near the middle to see the bolt. You can tell which bolt it is because it will not be symmetrically placed relative to the rest of the trim fasteners iirc. When you remove it you'll see it is pretty long.
Once you get access I'd vacuum the area out first. You can place a small pen light, like one of those little free HF flashlights and lay it down in there to see what you are doing. Before taking cleaning fluid or a hose to it, test to make sure the drain is flowing ok and that no water is going into the car.
Everything will smell nice and fresh when you are done. This is a worthwhile maintenance item to do periodically.
Once you get access I'd vacuum the area out first. You can place a small pen light, like one of those little free HF flashlights and lay it down in there to see what you are doing. Before taking cleaning fluid or a hose to it, test to make sure the drain is flowing ok and that no water is going into the car.
Everything will smell nice and fresh when you are done. This is a worthwhile maintenance item to do periodically.
Found it easily after your instruct. The PO had some black silicon placed over the bolt and its location was not obvious on first scan.
I was thinking of that, and still may just do that, if I can get my little brush and vacuum attachment in there. To note the evaporator looks new, shiny, and silver in color. The blades are uniform. This I think is for my PO had the system converted to 134 correctly by Porsche, and components were changed out. I do have about a 1.5 in high strip of soilage along the bottom gravity dependent area that is taking away some cooling surface.
#11
Rennlist Member
Don't forget the coil cleaner. Takes the nasty smells away too. Lowes sells it.
#12
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Not really a write up, but there are pics. Simply clear the rubber boot out of the way and you can get a look, and possibly a brush and/or vacuum inside.
I am going remove the screw that holds the freeze switch sensor sleeve in place. I don't want to damage the sleeve or the sensor.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-cleaning.html
#13
Electron Wrangler
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
I cannot imagine that they would have replaced the evaporator to do a R134a conversion (or even have cleaned it...unless there were issues). O-ring seals, expansion valve, drier & ports and even hoses yes...
BTW I think you will find the resistor pack access is quite good - perhaps better than the plenum end - unless you have a honking big vacuum tip.
Alan
BTW I think you will find the resistor pack access is quite good - perhaps better than the plenum end - unless you have a honking big vacuum tip.
Alan
#14
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
I cannot imagine that they would have replaced the evaporator to do a R134a conversion (or even have cleaned it...unless there were issues). O-ring seals, expansion valve, drier & ports and even hoses yes...
BTW I think you will find the resistor pack access is quite good - perhaps better than the plenum end - unless you have a honking big vacuum tip.
Alan
BTW I think you will find the resistor pack access is quite good - perhaps better than the plenum end - unless you have a honking big vacuum tip.
Alan
The evaporator and expansion valve look almost new.
I'll take it and not argue... system works well...good enough for me.
#15
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Here's my method of cleaning the evaporator from up top.
Here's what I used.
AC coil cleaner from Lowes.
Purchased a long handled toilet bowl brush and cut about 2/3 of the circumferential bristles off. I found this brush had the right density and consistency of bristle.
Windex or similar spray bottle with very hot water.
Here's what I did.
Access the evaporator chamber by simply removing the rubber sleeve between it and the fan housing.
Remove top lid of airbox. You have to do this or your shaken can of coil cleaner will not be upright enough to spray on the evaporator.
Remove screw holding in freeze switch sensor sleeve in place. Remove sensor first, then remove sleeve.
Spray with hot water, spray with coil cleaner, let sit, then use the brush. Repeat to your liking. You don't need to flood the thing.
Collect material with vacuum, spatula both, or whatever you have to get it done.
Note, this cleaning for the fore surface of the evaporator only.
Here's what I used.
AC coil cleaner from Lowes.
Purchased a long handled toilet bowl brush and cut about 2/3 of the circumferential bristles off. I found this brush had the right density and consistency of bristle.
Windex or similar spray bottle with very hot water.
Here's what I did.
Access the evaporator chamber by simply removing the rubber sleeve between it and the fan housing.
Remove top lid of airbox. You have to do this or your shaken can of coil cleaner will not be upright enough to spray on the evaporator.
Remove screw holding in freeze switch sensor sleeve in place. Remove sensor first, then remove sleeve.
Spray with hot water, spray with coil cleaner, let sit, then use the brush. Repeat to your liking. You don't need to flood the thing.
Collect material with vacuum, spatula both, or whatever you have to get it done.
Note, this cleaning for the fore surface of the evaporator only.
Last edited by MainePorsche; 08-22-2013 at 05:03 PM.