Notices
928 Forum 1978-1995
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: 928 Specialists

Front Evaporator Cleaning Question.

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 08-22-2013, 11:41 AM
  #1  
MainePorsche
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
 
MainePorsche's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: North Country
Posts: 5,662
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes on 9 Posts
Default Front Evaporator Cleaning Question.

Guys,
I want to clean out the evaporator from up top. As I've researched, there are 3 bolts I have to remove to make the fan mobile to facilitate access into the evaporator chamber. Two are up top. One bolt goes into the fan case from below. I've read someone who says you have to remove the glove box. I did that and I don't see any bolts to remove.

To access this bolt do I remove the grill for the redistribution box above the CE panel ? Is this what was meant ?

Thanks in Advance.
Craig
Old 08-22-2013, 12:01 PM
  #2  
MainePorsche
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
 
MainePorsche's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: North Country
Posts: 5,662
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes on 9 Posts
Default

Or...

Can the fan housing be rotated, on this lower bolts axis, counter clockwise to give access to the evaporator chamber after the two top bolts removed ?


Add: I think not. I've just had a look at PET again, and note there is a gasket that can be jeopardized if I were to do this.

Last edited by MainePorsche; 08-22-2013 at 12:05 PM. Reason: Research
Old 08-22-2013, 12:06 PM
  #3  
MFranke
Pro
 
MFranke's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Powder Springs, GA
Posts: 500
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

You don't have to remove the glove box. Just look under it near the middle to see the bolt. You can tell which bolt it is because it will not be symmetrically placed relative to the rest of the trim fasteners iirc. When you remove it you'll see it is pretty long.

Once you get access I'd vacuum the area out first. You can place a small pen light, like one of those little free HF flashlights and lay it down in there to see what you are doing. Before taking cleaning fluid or a hose to it, test to make sure the drain is flowing ok and that no water is going into the car.

Everything will smell nice and fresh when you are done. This is a worthwhile maintenance item to do periodically.
Old 08-22-2013, 12:09 PM
  #4  
MFranke
Pro
 
MFranke's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Powder Springs, GA
Posts: 500
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

I don't remember having to remove anything from inside the car to access the bolt. You'll need to be able to lay on your back on the seat with a flashlight to see it.
Old 08-22-2013, 12:12 PM
  #5  
jeff spahn
Rennlist Member
 
jeff spahn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Dubuque, IA
Posts: 8,593
Received 383 Likes on 221 Posts
Default

I cleaned the evaporator from the outside of the car. Took the blower motor out, vac'd out all the leaves and what appeared to be a guinea pig's entire mop of hair. Then I got a/c coil cleaner and cleaned the coils. Now it doesn't smell nasty in the car with the air on and it blows much colder.
Old 08-22-2013, 12:15 PM
  #6  
MFranke
Pro
 
MFranke's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Powder Springs, GA
Posts: 500
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

Yeah, funny - I found a guinea pig coat of hair in mine too.
Old 08-22-2013, 12:18 PM
  #7  
Alan
Electron Wrangler
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
 
Alan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Phoenix AZ
Posts: 13,371
Received 398 Likes on 272 Posts
Default

Why not just remove the rubber boot, remove the resistor pack and clean from there...

Alan
Old 08-22-2013, 12:23 PM
  #8  
Kevin in Atlanta
Rennlist Member
 
Kevin in Atlanta's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Roswell, GA
Posts: 7,989
Received 741 Likes on 449 Posts
Default

What he said ^^^^. I have done that a few times. I first use a detailing bronze wire brush following the fins to knock off the dirt followed by a homemade vacuum attachment to remove the debris.
Old 08-22-2013, 12:24 PM
  #9  
Randy V
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
 
Randy V's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Insane Diego, California
Posts: 40,433
Received 92 Likes on 62 Posts
Default

Is there a write-up out there that details this cleaning process?

It's something I've wanted to do for awhile now.
Old 08-22-2013, 12:36 PM
  #10  
MainePorsche
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
 
MainePorsche's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: North Country
Posts: 5,662
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes on 9 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by MFranke
You don't have to remove the glove box. Just look under it near the middle to see the bolt. You can tell which bolt it is because it will not be symmetrically placed relative to the rest of the trim fasteners iirc. When you remove it you'll see it is pretty long.

Once you get access I'd vacuum the area out first. You can place a small pen light, like one of those little free HF flashlights and lay it down in there to see what you are doing. Before taking cleaning fluid or a hose to it, test to make sure the drain is flowing ok and that no water is going into the car.

Everything will smell nice and fresh when you are done. This is a worthwhile maintenance item to do periodically.
Thanks Mark.
Found it easily after your instruct. The PO had some black silicon placed over the bolt and its location was not obvious on first scan.

Originally Posted by Alan
Why not just remove the rubber boot, remove the resistor pack and clean from there...

Alan
Alan,
I was thinking of that, and still may just do that, if I can get my little brush and vacuum attachment in there. To note the evaporator looks new, shiny, and silver in color. The blades are uniform. This I think is for my PO had the system converted to 134 correctly by Porsche, and components were changed out. I do have about a 1.5 in high strip of soilage along the bottom gravity dependent area that is taking away some cooling surface.
Old 08-22-2013, 12:42 PM
  #11  
jeff spahn
Rennlist Member
 
jeff spahn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Dubuque, IA
Posts: 8,593
Received 383 Likes on 221 Posts
Default

Don't forget the coil cleaner. Takes the nasty smells away too. Lowes sells it.
Old 08-22-2013, 12:44 PM
  #12  
MainePorsche
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
 
MainePorsche's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: North Country
Posts: 5,662
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes on 9 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Randy V
Is there a write-up out there that details this cleaning process?

It's something I've wanted to do for awhile now.
Randy,
Not really a write up, but there are pics. Simply clear the rubber boot out of the way and you can get a look, and possibly a brush and/or vacuum inside.
I am going remove the screw that holds the freeze switch sensor sleeve in place. I don't want to damage the sleeve or the sensor.

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-cleaning.html
Old 08-22-2013, 12:54 PM
  #13  
Alan
Electron Wrangler
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
 
Alan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Phoenix AZ
Posts: 13,371
Received 398 Likes on 272 Posts
Default

I cannot imagine that they would have replaced the evaporator to do a R134a conversion (or even have cleaned it...unless there were issues). O-ring seals, expansion valve, drier & ports and even hoses yes...

BTW I think you will find the resistor pack access is quite good - perhaps better than the plenum end - unless you have a honking big vacuum tip.

Alan
Old 08-22-2013, 01:00 PM
  #14  
MainePorsche
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
 
MainePorsche's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: North Country
Posts: 5,662
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes on 9 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Alan
I cannot imagine that they would have replaced the evaporator to do a R134a conversion (or even have cleaned it...unless there were issues). O-ring seals, expansion valve, drier & ports and even hoses yes...

BTW I think you will find the resistor pack access is quite good - perhaps better than the plenum end - unless you have a honking big vacuum tip.

Alan
Maybe there were issues.
The evaporator and expansion valve look almost new.
I'll take it and not argue... system works well...good enough for me.
Old 08-22-2013, 02:11 PM
  #15  
MainePorsche
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
 
MainePorsche's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: North Country
Posts: 5,662
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes on 9 Posts
Default

Here's my method of cleaning the evaporator from up top.

Here's what I used.

AC coil cleaner from Lowes.
Purchased a long handled toilet bowl brush and cut about 2/3 of the circumferential bristles off. I found this brush had the right density and consistency of bristle.
Windex or similar spray bottle with very hot water.

Here's what I did.

Access the evaporator chamber by simply removing the rubber sleeve between it and the fan housing.
Remove top lid of airbox. You have to do this or your shaken can of coil cleaner will not be upright enough to spray on the evaporator.
Remove screw holding in freeze switch sensor sleeve in place. Remove sensor first, then remove sleeve.
Spray with hot water, spray with coil cleaner, let sit, then use the brush. Repeat to your liking. You don't need to flood the thing.
Collect material with vacuum, spatula both, or whatever you have to get it done.

Note, this cleaning for the fore surface of the evaporator only.

Last edited by MainePorsche; 08-22-2013 at 05:03 PM.


Quick Reply: Front Evaporator Cleaning Question.



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 10:28 PM.