Mark Anderson

If you are rebuilding your own rack look closely at the condition of the shaft. Many of ours require that the shaft is plated and center less ground back to stock dimensions.

Bill Ball

I have rebuilt axles. It's a very messy and time consuming job to get them apart, cleaned, inspected, reassembled, packed and booted. If you have time and are a committed DIY guy, have at it. The boot kits are very inexpensive and will work great if the joints are OK. The awful condition of the axle boots in your other thread (not just split, but torn wide open - see pic below) leads me to suspect the CV joints are going to be scored and pitted.

I'm a committed DIY guy, but I decided buying rebuilt axles was the way to go. Pop the old ones out, new ones in - done. When some people have asked me to do their rear axle boots for them, I tell them it costs about the same to reboot them or to buy and swap in rebuilt axles when you consider the extra labor with the former way.

Also, I take the same basic position with the steering rack.

BAAAD BOOT!:

atb

I agree with Bill, I have yet to be in the middle of a rear CV re-pack and not question why I didn't just spring for the pre-assembled refurbished axles. The repack job is time consuming, and it is just nasty/messy work. I liken it to what I hear about childbirth, that its easy to forget the misery of having to go through it when the time comes to do it all again. The allure is that the repack kits are probably the cheapest thing available for a 928. Unless you really want to have this communal experience with your 928, I would spring for the rebuilt axles. Quick, clean and easy. And worth the extra money IMHO.

alabbasi

Thanks guys, I think that ya'll have given me enough information so that I can knock this idea around. This car has suffered a lot of neglect so it will take some time to get going as it has to share my attention and budget with 19 other cars

M. Requin

I rebuilt my rack with the Rennbay kit in '08, approx. 55K miles ago, and now at approx. 190K on the car, no leaks. I think I got lucky.

Landseer

I've repacked 8 sets of axles. 1 set was bad, rest fine.

Key is cleanliness; thoroughness of the flush. **** about the flush. Investing in plenty of CRC Red brake cleaner ( don't breath it ) and a few gallons of mineral spirits is pretty much the course. The inners can be taken apart. The outers have captive ***** and necked-down access.

If the ***** are blued and/or you see pitting, they are toast.

Dwayne has a very good write-up that is helpful. He was doing the work on an 84 car.

alabbasi

Gentlemen, I found a local rebuilder who said that he can rebuild my axles if I bring them to him for $85 / side. He came recommended so I will probably go that route and let ya'll know how it works out, in case other local guys want to use him.

Thanks

SeanR

I've also rebuild dozens of them and only had one CV joint that was bad. It's a pretty dirty job but not all that difficult. $85.00 per side sounds cheap when the boots are $20.00 ea, must be using immigrant labor.

alabbasi

I'll play close attention to the Asian kid smoking a cigar in the corner to make sure he does the job right.

lonnie77

While you have the rack off have a look at the rubber disk on the steering shaft.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lonnie7...57623788139925

alabbasi

That looks like a coupling. I'll check it out.

Thanks

jpitman2

Recently in Oz a 928 guy needed new rear cv joints, and was advised by someone in the trade they are the same as those used on a locally produced GM Commodore.
The part is made by GSP and the part number is CVJ.VW22 . He paid A$85 each. he reported seeing them on ebay in US at $240...He has them fitted at last report, no real issues (apart from being a bit tight getting the circlip on) in a short amount of use. Check recent posts on landshark by Norman.
jp 83 Euro S AT 55k

MFranke

I just did an axle. Other than cost of the boots it cost me about a gallon of gasoline to clean the ends. It is pretty inexpensive if you do it yourself. Just wear a pair of nitrile gloves and use a bucket to clean it in.

Hilton

Kurt, I don't suppose you have a part number for the kit you received, or a link to the source?

kurt_1

Hilton: sorry, no part number. I got the kit in 2002 from Adrian Clark in the UK. He may still have access to the source or at least know the part number. I don't know if he is over here on RL but he is a friend of John Speake's so he may be able to relay the question to Adrian.

Kurt
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