I was wondering about that too (pulley). Sounds way better in person as yours does i'm sure.

Installing '85-'86 manifolds as soon as i get them in the mail and will likely change the exhaust for a better setup. I'd like to ask for advice on this once the new manifolds are in place before i order raw exhaust tubing to weld up. Thinking an H and X before Supertrapps on each side.

I also would like to know if anyone ever measured HP before and after the removal of all belts but the alternator belt. There is a gain i can feel, i remember what it was like before last June.

Now that my exhaust is no longer stock and my AFM has been ported and adjusted for more fuel, I cannot determine the exact gain.

 

The gain could be from the denser air in the winter.

 

You might want to read some of the exhaust threads for race cars...the single exhaust setup weighs less and often sounds more exotic...less like an old chevy truck with rusted off mufflers You also then just need a good Y-pipe, single muffler where the cats were . I ran supertraps many years ago and hated them, the removable tune able end caps bolts soon failed

 

Matt,
Merry Christmas! JB gave good advise in the xmember plate, however you may get away w/2 narrow box-braces connecting at the rack mounts. Think 8 guage steel, 2" wide.

Looking great!

 

the engine cross member has more than one function ...it holds up the engine and it ties together the front frame rails. The diagonal brackets at the ends I believe are to limit the flexing of the inner fender suspension pickups rather than just supporting the engine. Plus weight that low in the chassis is not very detrimental to the handling.

 

IMO000,

E30 BMW racers (straight 6s) see anywhere from 4 to 7 hp gained simply removing the power steering pump alone. I have removed that, plus the air pump and air conditioning. I read in Hot Rod recently that the GM engineers building the new 10k rpm Nascar motor found that widening the alternator belt 1 rib took away 5 HP!

I think conservatively, 10HP has been gained losing 3 belts and accessories. The car never would spin the rear wheels in 2nd accelerating.
There's a gain.

Jim D, i thought of the same, but for a component as important as James B has pointed out, I'd rather leave this one alone. It weight 3 lbs btw.

Mr Bailey, Thanks for the critical information. I appreciate it James the exhaust you describe is what i've already fabricated. It cost me $50, and runs and sounds great.
Guess i will just replace the cast iron logs with the '85-'86 manifolds purchased from Mark A. That will save some pounds for sure!

 

Hi Matt,
Merry Christmas. Please let me know what is involved in swapping to 85-85 manifolds.
Good luck, and continue with the great project.
Dave

 

The driver side sticks back 2.25" due to different offset of ports on the 85+, IIRC. What is pesky about this is that it puts a bolt in the flange tight at the top, and while the offset is straight back, the pipes are pointed down at the flange, so any adapter is a bit of kink.

*** IIRC means I could have this backwards, or that its really +1.125" and -1.125".

Thermal coating the 85/86 manifolds works well and looks great.

 

Dave I meant to say hello now for about a month as I haven't noticed you around rl, I hope you had a great Christmas. I will take pics of the manifold update for you.

Thanks Mike, I have a bit more access around the motor than prior to this RS project, so hopefully all goes well. What i plan to do about the dimensional problem you mention:
Cut the Y pipe flange off (on the side there is an issue) and bolt it up to the new tubular maniifold. Then weld up a piece of tubing from that flange to the Y to fill the gap created. That should be easiest and there will be no intermediate part.

I had a reason to take an hour long drive into the country to pick up my Daughter at my Brother's (cousin sleep-over)..What fun, my Brother really liked i and it turned more than a few heads as usual. I look forward to meeting those of you i know one day at a 928 event.

I'd never re-install the power steering. It gives feedback now like a 911 only less, (no bump steer) which i like. I prefer some wheel spin but traction is an issue, i need stickier rubber, I think a set of good Toyos. If just a bit of moisture it is a problem.

 

Jeebus...

Can we start a pool to pitch in and buy Matt a Go-Pro before he kills himself?

 

also work well on ice T

 

Shawn,
I was very careful. No ice but a little melt run off in spots. The car is an absolute blast. We will have to plan a time to get together soon for the exhaust. I need to buy some welding wire first (ran out) and I will have to also paint the pumpkin with heat paint prior..


LOL, I had a jacket that looked like those tires in College T.

 

Here ya go!

http://www.autoblog.com/2013/12/26/p...usaolp00000588

 

Brad, maybe the wheels would look better orange...Singer does beautiful work. Neat guy.

Once the 928 RS is lowered, with a front spoiler (oil cooler centrally mounted) and graphics I think it will look much better.

I need also to do real mirror mounts for the RSR mirrors that raise the mirrors. They will be painted body color along with the mirrors. I am starting those now. Very lightweight.

Wheels really make any car, and the Phonedial wheel i've chosen for this project is pretty subtle in photos but look great in person.

When driving it yesterday with road dust on the tread in my Brother's driveway it looked really mean.

Maybe when lowered (bought springs) it will look more aggressive like the Singer 911s do.

Wow, $350,000 for a Singer 911, not quite as impressed now.

I don't believe this takes 4000 hours per car, not for a minute.

4000 hours is probably the total time taken to design and build (figure everything out) the first complete car.

After everything is figured out it takes much less time with each car. Beautiful car none the less. 911s are very simple cars. $350k is a lot of money for one. I made a IROC tribute out of mine, easy to paint and take apart as the 928 is.

The real question is: will Jay buy one?

 

Brad, you motivated me to add some graphics. This is just a first try, may change.

I am hoping once slammed to the ground with the S4 springs it will begin to look better.

Different wheels may be needed it not. Roofers are using nail guns in the background, it's not my motor ticking.