docmirror

Lose the weight of the pump and lines too. Bonus.

The Fixer

Maybe i should just call you Doc,
yes, and the fluid weight too. Will bag and weigh.

If just the belt is removed you still have fluid throughout your PS system.

Every time you turn the wheel, you have to put in extra effort to push the PS fluid around. In this cold even more.

Theoretically, once the fluid is removed I should notice a difference in the required effort to turn the wheel, (less effort) as you won't be forcing fluid through the power steering pump and hoses.

Remove the PS system in it's entirety, letting out most of the fluid by turing the wheel slowly and looping the rack lines with a breather (for air) will be the way to go.

Imo000

The wear on mine was the rubber coupler, it fell apart from the strain it wasn't designed for. Had a spare and that's what's in it. Your garage floor might be smoother than an asphalt road and easier to turn the steering wheel on it. Take the belt of and drive it for a week.

77tony

Have you not seen pictures of Matt in earlier posts ? Does not appear that manual steering will be much of an effort T

UncleMaz

Big and grippy, the Sparco 368 is a good addition to a front engine, manual steering car. It certainly was helpful in my manual rack 944 AXing. It also looks great.

http://www.sparcousa.com/product/r-368

antsmands

Hey Matt;

Have not paid much attention to the ride height of my car as it was not running for awhile. Did not notice any difference when I drove it to put away for the winter. Next time I go to check on it I will measure the height and let you know as I have not done anything suspension wise.

The Fixer

I was going to PM you to ask you how JP was running. I didn't see a lot of finished pics. I will look again. Post something cool here please.

I agree with you, it would grip better. Did you use a manual steer 924 rack? Landseer mentioned to me that is how the 944 guys sometimes do it. Post a pic of your manual steer 944 please. Momo Prototipo looks very early '70s the Sparco 368 looks more '80s and beyond. I think I will go for this wheel. Thanks!

Thanks Antsmands,
Mark Anderson let me know that later shorter front springs would do the trick. He could not say exactly how much they would lower it though. He guessed 1-2". Guess i will go this route. Cutting would make the contact point on the cut end a little iffy i would think.

Thanks Imo000, i will have an extra rubber coupler on hand just in case.
My garage floor is very rough, it's a 75 year old garage slab. They finished the slabs rougher then in these parts it seems. Removing the fluid lines and most of fluid will help with effort i hope. Haven't had time to get out there been busy..
Power Steering

Can't decide which shift **** to use (it must be epoxied in place) Like the look of the body colored but the bigger natural wood is very comfortable but now i don't like the RS logo on it and wish i left it plain.

Rob Edwards

My vote would be the natural RS ****, just drive it enough that your hand wears the RS off.

UncleMaz

Most or all 1983 944's had manual racks (they also had forged rods and pistons).

admiralkhole

Most '83 models had manual racks, powered was an option. Two manual racks were available, a sport quick ratio rack and a normal manual rack. The quick ratio has 015 in the part number, the other has 011. Quick ratio rack is just under 3.5 turns lock to lock, the other being 4 turns. I don't think forged pistons, but yes the rods were forged, also supposedly some early '84 cars got them too. This year also featured a cross drilled crank, the only year getting it. It was cross drilled on every journal providing better lubrication.

The Fixer

I am leaning in your direction. This was technically your idea as you posted the balsa 917 **** idea first way back in June.

Question about the your White Zombie:

I noticed intakes where driving lights normally are, are they cold air intakes or simply extra cooling air for the radiator. Pics please if you could, i plan to lighten the RS dramatically by removing most of the front bumper assembly.
I'd like cold air intakes in place of the driving lights and will add simple light rectangular 3"x5" driving lights to the underside of the front bumper cover.

Also did Mark make custom brake and clutch lever/pedals? I'd like to, and plan on it when i have time. Any other weight reduction details on the Zombie that don't involve a saw jaw are appreciated. (Pics)

That simple rack is a thing of beauty, wonder if it could be made to fit? Doesn't look like it.

Rob Edwards

Matt-

Here's the cooling duct setup:

Driver's side:

Front bumper:



Under the headlight


Wheelwell:


At the hub:



Passenger side is a little different:


The foglamp duct feeds the brakes, and the parking light duct feeds the fans on the transmission cooler:











There's a bit of a mystery duct that (I think) isn't attached to anything, perhaps it was to be a brake duct but was too small. Mark?

Rob Edwards

RE: weight loss, I'm not sure there's much left that you haven't already considered. Since things like being more waterproof than a 1958 Triumph bugeye are probably more important to you than Mark, the lexan quarter windows are probably out:



Not sure how much the rear floor weighs (Hans has a cutout spare tire well that he could probably weigh) but Mark's rear deck is just sheet aluminum and Dzus fasteners:




And the dash is probably the best use of a plastic dash cap that I've seen:




A quick release MOMO would be cool:






You've gone farther on the hood hinges than even Anderson did:



Not sure what the upside to custom pedals would be, the factory stuff is strong and light, and arguably the clutch pedal is too light, as they are known to fail.

The Fixer

Thanks Rob, So Mark used them for brake an oil coiling.
I would like to use those openings for cold air intakes.
Thanks again, very interesting. The racing/use scars are great.
I wonder if my early pedal/levers are different than the Zombie, they looked
chunkier to me than yours do.

Edit: Went out to take a closer look, just the brake pedal/lever looks on the heavy side
for a Porsche, reminds me of an American muscle car in design. 911 pedals arms are simple
and light. Not sure why the 928 brake lever arm is a huge casting.
Clutch looks fine as you say. Will probably leave it alone.

Rob Edwards

PET says 5-speed brake pedals 78-95 are all the same, for whatever that's worth.

Clutch pedal from 87-91 weighs 17.2 oz. The 78-86 and 92-95 clutch pedals have their own part #'s- the GTS pedal has a different assist spring setup, not sure what the diff between 78-86 and 87-91 pedals is, but I bet they all weigh more or less the same.