The Fixer

Think I'm going to leave the marker lights Tony. I really need to get back to my real work. If i were being paid to do this, i'd probably stop and fill them. But honestly they don't bother me much.
Re Engine Bay: Only the forward area (hood latch area) will be painted Gulf blue right now. The rest of the engine bay will happen next year when i do the motor. (Compression increase, Cams, reseal etc., runs so good though)
I'd like to drive it again for a little while i complete the interior.
I really miss driving it.

Thanks Buddy appreciated greatly. Wish it wasn't so humid (80%)or I'd be priming, all ready to go but I'd like better conditions.

Thank you, that's good to see. Like it!

Agreed Ron

Yes, saw the final run months ago. That was a heck of a shunt to walk away from.
hanks for the interest,
-Matt

The Fixer

85% humidity of course when ready to paint.. killing time.

On the bright side i really have taken my time converting the garage into a clean booth with filtered air. Even cleaned the compressor and it's air filter.

It's too risky to paint when the humidity is above 70%. Paint can 'blush' due to condensation as the paint flashes. Looks milky when that happens.
Waiting til Tuesday.

Tony, this area (pic) of engine bay will be painted gulf blue this stage of the transformation as well as the under side of the hood.

The original body color slate blue (silver) will be present in engine area for a relatively short period of time.

Have a great Labor Day weekend everyone!

The Fixer

Excited about this:

I always liked the painted metal and lightly padded dashes from the
1950s and '60s. Think Ferrari GTO or Jaguar XKSS or any early racing or road going Porsche.
Dash:
Will paint dash frame body color and apply swede.

There is no upper door panel to meet dash HVAC opening anyway.

Edges around the Pod can be treated to that rubber 'C' channel bead.

A lot of heavy foam and vinyl even on the underside.

Very light dash now. Will have a glove box but no lid. I like this now.

Pod:
Pod frame weighs 1 lb. 4 oz., will need a MOMO Prototipo wheel to go with it.

I can easily glue the thin navy swede to this now. It is so lightweight, really very cool to hold.

The Fixer

Getting antsy to paint but too humid (80%),
I may prime in the morning because there will be body work to touch up and Tuesday the humidity will move out.
Wanted to share my little spray area, its small but clean. The water removal device is a simple iron drip leg which i think i will lengthen tonight, then a Sharpe regulator/water separator and after that i have a desiccant hose. There is a test panel to spray next to the exhaust fan along with a filtered booth air inlet down low. You can see how the DuPont acid etch prep solution discolored the steel on the car.

Will go out tonight to stage things like lighting and shake the paint.
I bought 3 gallons of Gulf blue which at 4:1 will make 4 gallons or twice what i need. I will mix the 3 separate gallons then mix them with one another to be sure everything matches. Thought you all should know this.

The Fixer

Going to optimize my compressed air delivery system today as it's muggy as hell still (85% humidity) May install a DH at my booth air inlet..

Going to run 1" galv pipe from compressor a minimum of 25' ibefore my regulator/water separator and add a substantial drip leg with ball valve for easier draining. The longer pipe length from compressor will give the compressed air time to cool thus reducing moisture into the regulator. I am also going to rid the system of all QDs exept for the one at the spray gun inlet. QDs (quick dscncts) drop air pressure dramatically. HVLP gun require adequate CFM to atomize properly.

The Fixer

Wanted to show this set up.. moved my compressor in another room of garage. Very quiet working now and air is cooler and drier than before

I did a 28' run of 3/4" (min recommended, 1" is better ) galv. pipe.

For painting this is a method to cool the hot compressed air leaving your compressor. I used my hand to test the air leaving my compressor cylinder which was hot, and then at the end of the line the air is cool and dry. 2 big drip legs/ 1/4" per foot fall toward my water separators final drip leg with brass 1/4 turn ball valve for easy draining. No QDs except at paint gun inlet.

Ready to rock and roll tomorrow i think.

timbuktoo

I think you're going to have a much better tuesday than I will, as I will be going back to school. good luck and paint well... I've been following this thread for a long while but only now have I decided to reply. I've thoroughly enjoyed following it

also it's good to know that there is something solid under the foam of the dash/pod.

The Fixer

Thanks neighbor, our Kids went back too miss them already.
Keep in touch and thanks.
So far so good. Epoxy prime down, sanding and more prime but looks very good in areas that had work.

The Fixer

In spirit of keeping this informative;
block sanded epoxy primer, pic is during sanding.
(very nice stuff btw, sprays and sands great. Bought thru TCP Global, DTM Epoxy primer)

You want to remove any orange peel from the primer before applying your topcoat. Seems obvious but many do not.

Will go to work to kill the 5 hours dry time to sand again before topcoat tomorrow.

I can't wait to see some color.

Mrmerlin

Matt what kind of spray will you use on the bare aluminum?
Will you alodine the aluminum parts then zinc chromate them then epoxy spray?
Or do the new coatings do away with all of this?
I did this treatment to my car when i painted it,
and I zinc chromated the whole car, it was bare metal.

The Fixer

No, i just sand then acid etch to clean the aluminum with a DuPont solution and prime with this DTM epoxy primer, great stuff. It is for bare steel and aluminum. Glad those days are over. The glass beading process also put a fine texture on the steel and aluminum, this primer will never come off.
My main concern now Stan is the roof bodywork showing, that was a big hole to fill. I am going out there soon to see it. I don't want any sighs of the old sunroof opening or any irregularities to give away bodywork. This is the only issue that may prevent color tomorrow. I may have to spray a build primer on the roof for a few final block sandings.
I keep telling myself patience is a virtue.
Thanks again for weighing in, i thought about the first go around and how much help you provided.

John Speake

I admire your esterprise and energy ! Makes me feel tired just to watch :-)

FBIII

His energy makes me feel old.

The Fixer

I was just thinking i should go out and get it painted (primer looks perfect, roof looks good ) but i'm too tired!

I'm currently renovating another old house in Philadelphia, in the sun until 3pm.
I work with my hands for a living so i am used to this.
Given the option btwn renovating a house or panting a car, i'll take a car, it's a lot easier. I was telling Tony (77) on the phone how at 43 i have to work like i'm 23 again to turn a decent profit. Believe me i get very tired.
Thanks for the compliment though Guys.

Anyway more tech info:
It's best to top coat as soon as the primer is dry, so i may try in an hour after coffee.

FBIII

Go for it . You couldn't have a more perfect dry evening and temperature.