Jfrahm

Hi all,
I have read it can be hard to get the pointed bolt out of the shift coupler, and if you do this you may have more adjusting to do once replaced. I believe I have seen it suggested that the coupler can be serviced in place, is this true? If so, do you press out the pin with a C clamp or something?

This is to replace the bushings at the coupler between the shift rod and transmission i.e. https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...gs-w-pics.html

Tips welcome.

Thanks,
-Joel.

hb253

I don't see how you could replace the bushings without taking out the coupler. The bushings need to be inserted from inside.And you can't get them in place without hammering out the pin.

Rob Edwards

If you are willing to make a slit in that stupid rubber shift-coupler-condom so you can get access to everything, then you can push out the ~1/2" diameter pin in the rear shift coupler with a small 2-ear gear puller (The pin is not really all that tight in there, it may just tap out with a small diameter, deep socket and the side of a hammer, not much room to swing in there, but enough. No need to drop the exhaust or heat shields, in my experience)



Then you can press out the old bushings (if they're more than finger tight) with sockets and a C-clamp, and fit the new ones. Yes, you have to push them in from the midline of the coupler, but it can be done. Or if you're using bronze or delrin bushings without the 'shoulder', they can slide in from the outside.


More description in Post #10, here:

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...placement.html

Ducman82

not worth the trouble... take it out...

Rob Edwards

On the whole, I agree, BUT A) the grub screw that holds the coupler is often loctited and can strip without sufficient heat first, which leads to a world of hurt, and B) if you only push the pin out, you don't change any of the alignment of the coupler, so you don't mess up your shift pattern.

Zip tie the condom back over the shift coupler when done.

Ducman82

very true. from the reading hi have done, the big BIG issue with the grub screw is not getting the allen head ALL the way in and bottomed out. :-P

Mike Frye

My solution to the grub screw problem:


chuck a hex bolt in my drill press and grind it down to a point. Next time I have to take that coupler off there will be no drama. (like the last time)

Ducman82

OOOOOOO me likes!

Mike Frye

Thanks,
Normally once I get through a bout of 'tenthums' I just use the proper part and try to be careful so that it doesn't get that bad again, but I really think this was a poor design feature with absolutely no upside. A set screw with no reason to be recessed that I could fathom, but that would virtually ensure when installed per the WSM that it would completely hose the next guy trying to work on it....

I didn't get it. So I did a mod that made it work for someone like me. No overtorquing because the bolt only goes in so far, no trouble getting it loose down the road.

I kept the old coupler and still have it as a trophy. I used almost every tool I have to remove it, including nearly lighting my car on fire using penetrating oil to loosen it, then using a torch to heat it before the oil was gone.

Sorry for the hijack. Looks like Rob's solution should work. I wish I had tried just about anything but removing that old set screw.

Jfrahm

Well I ended up cheating on this and pressing the bushings in from outside and securing with a hose clamp as suggested by a lister. Hackish, yes, but I have a swollen up hand from a softball injury and I have to pick my battles. It helped that my bushings were so shot one of them was out and the other not far behind. I could not reliably find reverse with the bushings completely pooched.

I used 914 bushings from Pelican. $8 for the pair. Not a big investment if it has to be done again. 99-1758-424-M23 for the 2-pack. First class mail got them to me in 2 days for a reasonable price.

I'd thought about making up a set of extra long bushings and crossdrilling them near one end, then securing them with lockwire through the bit that stuck out. I think this would be pretty easy to do but the hose clamp trick seemed to be a pretty good solution and it might last until the trans is out for some other reason. I kept careful measurements of the bushes in case I decide to go for this someday.
12mm ID x 24mm OD x 15mm wide, with a 3mm thick 33mm OD flange over 180 degrees. If I went with the extra long ones I'd go 18 or 19mm wide with no flange and drill within 1.5mm of one end.

I'll pass on a tip in return: I wear gloves for this sort of thing but I still get grimy spots on my wrists and arms. Before trying to get this grease off your skin, rub on some cooking oil. It'll soften up and lift the grime and then wash off really easily.

-Joel.

Don Carter

I just did this job, or actually, it's in progress. My rear bushings were completely gone, metal on metal.

I heated the coupler around the hex bolt for 2-3 minutes with a propane torch and it came right out. Next I proceeded to break my coupler in the vise while trying to press out the pin. I knew it would break easily but somehow I broke it anyway... The new coupler should arrive soon with bushings already installed, so should be quick to get back together. I would not want to work on that coupler in place.

Jfrahm

There is a fair bit of room up there. It'd be nice to have the part out and work on it in hand but then you might have alignment issues when reassembled.

Pressing in bushings without taking the coupler apart is really easy if the old bushings are out and I think a kluge repair is actually not bad at all for this part. I was able to get the slit boot back over the coupler and ziptie it into place. If you have the trans or torque tube out the part becomes a lot easier to service, that would be a great time to do it right.