Rear shift coupling replacement with new Delrin bushings w/ pics.
01-23-2011, 04:14 PM
#1
Rear shift coupling replacement with new Delrin bushings w/ pics.
Decided to replace the rear shift coupling bushings this weekend and did some searching before I attempted it. I could not find any pics of this procedure and even checked the oracle of HOW TO DO THIS at http://dwaynesgarage.norcal928.org/ (great write ups for us Noobs- Thanks Dwayne!) If there are those that can add shortcuts and ways to make this process easier for others, please do add them to this post. Forgive me for my noob abilities to post pics and my first write up....
This would have been a disaster without the solid advise on this board from fellow rennlisters describing how to do this procedure and what to do if you break the set screw off. Key to this procedure before attempting to unscrew the set screw was heating the it for about 5 mins before trying to remove it.
Pic 1 Location of rear coupling above torque tube, near front of transmission.
Pic 2 Marked spline before disassembly for reassembly alignment.
Pic 3 Coupling after heating set screw (old coupling has melted away)
Pic 4 Old coupling and new boot before coupling replacement.
Pic 5 New boot and what was left of old boot.
Pic 6 New Delrin bushings on top vs. Porsche OEM in package.
Pic 7 Pushed the old center post out using this method. Now pushing the center post in with new bushings using a vise and sockets. (Thx SeanR!)
Pic 8 Disassembled coupling.
Pic 9 Assembly lube used.
Pic 10 Shot of the dreaded set screw intact.
Pic 11 New bushings installed on coupling.
This would have been a disaster without the solid advise on this board from fellow rennlisters describing how to do this procedure and what to do if you break the set screw off. Key to this procedure before attempting to unscrew the set screw was heating the it for about 5 mins before trying to remove it.
Pic 1 Location of rear coupling above torque tube, near front of transmission.
Pic 2 Marked spline before disassembly for reassembly alignment.
Pic 3 Coupling after heating set screw (old coupling has melted away)
Pic 4 Old coupling and new boot before coupling replacement.
Pic 5 New boot and what was left of old boot.
Pic 6 New Delrin bushings on top vs. Porsche OEM in package.
Pic 7 Pushed the old center post out using this method. Now pushing the center post in with new bushings using a vise and sockets. (Thx SeanR!)
Pic 8 Disassembled coupling.
Pic 9 Assembly lube used.
Pic 10 Shot of the dreaded set screw intact.
Pic 11 New bushings installed on coupling.
Last edited by ALKada; 01-23-2011 at 04:45 PM. Reason: Adjusted pics
01-23-2011, 04:50 PM
#2
At this point it was reassembled on to the shift rod. Some extra hands might be needed in adjusting the shift rod into the spline to align the shifter. Mine was too far over to the left even with the marker on the spline.
New boot goes on first and clips over a flange on the transmission side, insert the coupling and tighten the set screw with minimum blue thread locker (be nice to the next guy...)
Align and set the spline side with the shift rod. Tighten the spline bolt and nut. Now the fun part, getting the boot back over the coupling toward the front of the car (shift rod side) to attach to the shift rod flange.
Not as great as a Dwayne write up, but I hope it helps someone out!
New boot goes on first and clips over a flange on the transmission side, insert the coupling and tighten the set screw with minimum blue thread locker (be nice to the next guy...)
Align and set the spline side with the shift rod. Tighten the spline bolt and nut. Now the fun part, getting the boot back over the coupling toward the front of the car (shift rod side) to attach to the shift rod flange.
Not as great as a Dwayne write up, but I hope it helps someone out!
Last edited by ALKada; 01-23-2011 at 05:03 PM. Reason: error on text
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voskian (09-02-2019)
01-24-2011, 08:41 PM
#6
Still need to get her back up on the ramps and adjust the shift linkage. I can tell alread that it shifts much smoother than before.
I will however remember your advise and carry a can of WD40 underneath with me. The boot is quite tight so it will need a squirt.
P.S. I forgot to mention that Roger got me the boot on a Saturday (his usual great service) and SeanR gave me the tip on extracting the bushing and rod trick. Thanks Guys!
I will however remember your advise and carry a can of WD40 underneath with me. The boot is quite tight so it will need a squirt.
P.S. I forgot to mention that Roger got me the boot on a Saturday (his usual great service) and SeanR gave me the tip on extracting the bushing and rod trick. Thanks Guys!
01-24-2011, 08:46 PM
#7
Glad it worked out. 
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01-24-2011, 11:16 PM
#8
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Good deal! I thought I was being sneaky and put the boot on when the transmission was out, with the new coupler in it, but then ended up about an inch short on clearance to get the bloody thing back in the car!
01-25-2011, 12:06 AM
#9
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Nice one Alex.
__________________
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
George Layton March 2014928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
01-25-2011, 12:51 AM
#10
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Nicely done, Alex! I admit this talk of shift rods, coupling bushings, splines and shift flange boots is oddly intriguing because I have no clue what these things do. My hat's off to you, Alex, and the other brave souls that have worked on 5-speeds and lived to tell about it! I hope to some day (or year) work on my 5-speed and when I do, I'll be referencing your post, Alex. THANKS for sharing!!
01-25-2011, 12:44 PM
#11
Thanks for your help Roger, I appreciate the leg work you did to find a part on a Saturday, that you did not have in stock, yet still found one for me so I could finish!!!
Dwayne,
That's very kind and I appreciate it. Thank you for going the extra mile and setting up your website, taking pictures and writing up the whole process and making our lives (especially us Noobs) a little easier tackling each project. Your previous work inspired me to take the pictures and write down the process.
Nicely done, Alex! I admit this talk of shift rods, coupling bushings, splines and shift flange boots is oddly intriguing because I have no clue what these things do. My hat's off to you, Alex, and the other brave souls that have worked on 5-speeds and lived to tell about it! I hope to some day (or year) work on my 5-speed and when I do, I'll be referencing your post, Alex. THANKS for sharing!!
That's very kind and I appreciate it. Thank you for going the extra mile and setting up your website, taking pictures and writing up the whole process and making our lives (especially us Noobs) a little easier tackling each project. Your previous work inspired me to take the pictures and write down the process.
09-07-2017, 02:54 PM
#12
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Just wanted to say thanks for documenting this procedure. I tackled it over the weekend luckily everything went as I hoped (i.e. no stripped 4mm set screw).
12-02-2017, 03:47 PM
#13
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Just wanted to say thanks for documenting this procedure. I tried it over the weekend unluckily nothign went as I hoped (stripped 4mm set screw, the boot was already pulled back and the bush is completely gone with the screw head already stripped, I think the PO tried and failed so he wedged something in there to make it 'good enough').
I sure hope I can drop the whole rear subframe without removing the clutch too.
I sure hope I can drop the whole rear subframe without removing the clutch too.
12-03-2017, 05:41 AM
#14
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The small Allen screw is difficult to remove. Had to use a heat gun as the Allen screw is sitting with Loctite in the coupler housing. I made a special hex screw which will be much easier to remove in the future.
Åke
