The only lesser person/people here are you two -tweedle dee and tweedle dumber who choose (very carefully I may add) to specifically **** on CERTAIN and particular threads posted by certain people. Personal insults usually get brought out when the amount of pure manure, i.e., passive aggressive asshat posts you two shovel in starts to rise.

Its interesting how several people have you on ignore. Why do you think that is?

 

Everyone else - play through.

 

They don't want to hear educated opinions?

 

Instead of begging people to give you parts and their time, go fix yourself that borrowed 928 that you broke. How's that for a non passive aggressive personal insult?

 

Buy one of Ed's, Guardian water pumps, I'm sure you watch you're temp gauge. If it starts to overheat, shut it down.

 

Didn't ask, didn't beg, fixed it many times. So get some actual facts fvck face. Or better yet, just go away.
You may have me confused with kibort, your personal hero.

 

Isolating the T/D still sounds pretty good.


Now, if the tension-truthers would work on a water-pump-warning instead of fondling their Bellevilles, maybe we'd have something.

 

Ken that was good

Lets stay on topic here - if you don't have/don't want/don't like a Porkensioner you have more than made your point. For those that have or do - seems like there are some real options emerging here.

Ken previously you noted the horizontal belt movement after the water pump at high rpm - are there other areas that clearly have more belt movement (flap) as the tensioner settles? how bad is it during the initial cold running scenario? (much worse than warm like the stock case? or mitigated?)

For the post water pump high rpm scenario does the belt ever contact the TB cover where the window section is?

Have you done any testing of the warning circuit to see how short of a ground break it will detect?

Alan

 

The mid section between the tensioner pulley and the 1-4 gear will show the most movement.
Higher rpms with a cold engine will the show the most movement with the stock tensioner here.

With a PKT, the belt in this area will always be flat, hot or cold, if it is working properly.

Can't say how short of a break the Central Warning box requires. Could it might be resistance based?

 

And the transmission?

 

What about a thin nylon, cap which sits overtop of the tensioner pin. Then adhere a metal contact to the top side, and attach the wire to it.

I still think it would be better to have a waterpump warning system over the tensioner as there are more failed waterpumps taking out the belt than anything else.....

 

RE. belt wrap sensor - forgot about that flat empty area under the tensioner pulley - with a mounting bolt even.

It's right where the minimum wrap area is on the crank gear.

Still wouldn't tell you if the water pump pulley was falling off, though.

 

How about a moisture sensor under the WP weep hole.

 

Creeps me out thinking of that pulley fallling off. (!!)


Put a brake pad wear sensor on the cover, wired in series with the belt position switch by the crank pulley. If the pulley moves out, it eats ths sensor wire and sets the warning. Use a loop of thin copper wire to detect the belt walking forward on the pulleys due to pump shaft misalignment, if you have that concern.

 

Maybe a WP pulley rotation sensor is what is needed.

Like others have said, given the TB tension is now dynamic, belt failures (other than incorrect tension) are WP related.

Could we use the RPM signal and "compare" it to the rotation of the WP?

I would think some slip would be acceptable, however if it slows down for some % of time or stops spinning even intermittently then "!"