PKT warning light?
#121
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The belt track usually goes bad with the stock tensioner because of the long arm either by wear of the plastic bushings or a problem with the shoulder bolt. (A really bad water pump that is ground in or falling out can do it too.) The Audi tensioner pulley is solidly mounted, independent of the lever, and it has a larger totally flat surface (vs. the two piece stamped stock pulley which is actually smaller than the belt), so I don't think that a runout sensor would help.
A sensor for the water pump shaft would be more useful?
I still haven't thought of anything simpler than the first post that could detect both over-extension (too much belt length) or under-extension (T/D problem). Over-extension might catch a super-heated belt from a seized water pump but it would be an end-stage failure which you would be lucky to catch, although a few savvy people have been saved by the stock tensioner light this way. (The engine must not be restarted after this light as the belt is likely melted onto the water pump, but most people just hope the light will go away.)
A sensor for the water pump shaft would be more useful?
I still haven't thought of anything simpler than the first post that could detect both over-extension (too much belt length) or under-extension (T/D problem). Over-extension might catch a super-heated belt from a seized water pump but it would be an end-stage failure which you would be lucky to catch, although a few savvy people have been saved by the stock tensioner light this way. (The engine must not be restarted after this light as the belt is likely melted onto the water pump, but most people just hope the light will go away.)
Thanks for getting back on the question.
#122
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Its been sat on the shelf waiting for the next TB/WP job - Water leak last week kicked this all off - but TB was due anyway.
Alan
#123
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Alan I have not, about a month ago in communication w/ Ken said he was testing something, I'd suggested an insulated "cap" on top of the piston and a wire running to it, similar to the Stock setup.
Alan the shafts of the bolts must be isolated too as well if doing it by the tensioner body, right?
I just picked up one of PKen's new "silver" backing plates to replace a Black one (no issues, but while I'm in there) and have a T belt redo going on for my current 86.5 SC Twin Screw project.
So very interested in also giving something a try
Dave
Alan the shafts of the bolts must be isolated too as well if doing it by the tensioner body, right?
I just picked up one of PKen's new "silver" backing plates to replace a Black one (no issues, but while I'm in there) and have a T belt redo going on for my current 86.5 SC Twin Screw project.
So very interested in also giving something a try
Dave
#124
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I do think Ken is right that this tests the most critical failures of the tensioner - both failing to tension due to hydraulic cylinder pressure loss/binding and also over-extension - running out of tensioning range.
The actual tension of the belt will be different than the stock static case so the stock tension check probably doesn't make so much sense. I have come to terms that this about the best possible simple solution.
I envisaged a sacrificial thin wire belt "cage" that could detect excessive belt flap and also migration off the cam pulleys. I also considered optical track checking. However these would require quite a lot of fabrication and trial and error work that I just don't have time for.
Will report back on results - will maintain the plain ground point as a backup plan
Alan
#125
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Sounds good, need to look for the isolating washers, just want to make sure this puppy doesn't move once secured
Yes keep it simple always work best for this kind of thing too.
Thanks for revisiting this,
Dave
Yes keep it simple always work best for this kind of thing too.
Thanks for revisiting this,
Dave
#127
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I'm interested in seeing your results, Alan! I was going to test this after working on the PKT-S but after so many R&R's of the belt covers I was in no mood for another.
The limit sensing should work fine (hopefully it is never needed). What I'm mainly interested in testing is if there would be false alarms (due to temperature changes, harmonic frequency, etc.).
The limit sensing should work fine (hopefully it is never needed). What I'm mainly interested in testing is if there would be false alarms (due to temperature changes, harmonic frequency, etc.).
#128
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I'm worried about the tensioner working its way loose from the washers being used?
Was looking at it last night maybe a "sheet" of insulating plastic for between the tensioner and the mount?
Or just good gasket material?
Thoughts?
Thanks,
Dave
Was looking at it last night maybe a "sheet" of insulating plastic for between the tensioner and the mount?
Or just good gasket material?
Thoughts?
Thanks,
Dave
#129
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I think the washers will be fine - and anyway the bolts will have loctite - they won't be moving anywhere. Mylar & Mica are both used for high power heat-sink mounting for their good thermal & compression characteristics
Alan
Alan
#131
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Tensioner is in and isolated after mounting - so far so good.
The PKT-S Air Pump Bracket works perfectly with my Vacuum Pump.
Alan
The PKT-S Air Pump Bracket works perfectly with my Vacuum Pump.
Alan
#132
Which vacuum pump? Having "Something" there in CA would help with visual smog.
#133
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GZ 102 Vacuum Pump
Of course you could always just leave an air-pump there (vanes removed?) - a vacuum pump implies something attached to the output so gets complex and expensive by the time you are done.
Alan
This is a GZ VP102:
Of course you could always just leave an air-pump there (vanes removed?) - a vacuum pump implies something attached to the output so gets complex and expensive by the time you are done.
Alan
This is a GZ VP102:
#134
Thanks for the link. Modern cats really don't need an air pump. I am always working towards the test pass, not specifically the letter of the law.
#135
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The stock cats don't really need an air-pump either - not when warmed up. My car passes emissions very easily without (about 3 times now) - but we don't have a visual equipment test in AZ - just the sniffer. I actually don't think the air pump had been pumping anything much for quite a while before I took it out... My vac pump system is closed - after 2 AOS passes it goes back into the CAI so nothing else is vented anywhere - clean system.
Anyway we digress - back to the PKT topic. It should all be buttoned up tomorrow - then I can run it and see if I get any false warnings. I still have the option to ground the sensor wire - though getting to it will be a major challenge from the top - so hope it works out well. Don't want to have to take the belly pan off again.
Alan
Anyway we digress - back to the PKT topic. It should all be buttoned up tomorrow - then I can run it and see if I get any false warnings. I still have the option to ground the sensor wire - though getting to it will be a major challenge from the top - so hope it works out well. Don't want to have to take the belly pan off again.
Alan