Hatch release.
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Nordschleife Master
Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Abbotsford B.C.
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Hatch-Release...-/260105032074
When you get it you do need the black bar that is attached to it for adapting to the system!
This is more or less what you are looking for.
You will have to be able to drill a couple holes (small holes), as well as solder.
The red plug on the bottom of the unit cannot be used as it is too tall. So if you trip the base off so that it is flat and the pins stay there, then just bend the pins over and solder leads to them.
On later cars that have a factory hatch release, unplug the factory motor, and tape off the red lead. Then connect the yellow lead to the positive of the release, and the brown lead to the negative.
This unit ONLY works with one polarity, so if you get it wrong, swap leads.
The factory circuit (fuse), is rated at only 1 amp. All I have seen have a 3 amp fuse in the CE panel (fuse 26 1987). The motor will draw just a tick under 3 amps, bit it is for such a short period of time that it wont matter. Literally pull up on the release button and it instantly pops.
When you get it you do need the black bar that is attached to it for adapting to the system!
This is more or less what you are looking for.
You will have to be able to drill a couple holes (small holes), as well as solder.
The red plug on the bottom of the unit cannot be used as it is too tall. So if you trip the base off so that it is flat and the pins stay there, then just bend the pins over and solder leads to them.
On later cars that have a factory hatch release, unplug the factory motor, and tape off the red lead. Then connect the yellow lead to the positive of the release, and the brown lead to the negative.
This unit ONLY works with one polarity, so if you get it wrong, swap leads.
The factory circuit (fuse), is rated at only 1 amp. All I have seen have a 3 amp fuse in the CE panel (fuse 26 1987). The motor will draw just a tick under 3 amps, bit it is for such a short period of time that it wont matter. Literally pull up on the release button and it instantly pops.
Electron Wrangler
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From: Phoenix AZ
Only the red wire at the hatch is supplied by the 1A (or 3A) fuse - the yellow wire is supplied by the interior light fuse.
Sounds like you no longer use the red wire at all so you also have a new spare fuse location (with tiny wiring attached and (30) feed)). You also have a spare skinny wire from the CE panel to the back of the car.
Alan
Sounds like you no longer use the red wire at all so you also have a new spare fuse location (with tiny wiring attached and (30) feed)). You also have a spare skinny wire from the CE panel to the back of the car.
Alan
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From: Phoenix AZ
OK so got my ebay special - quick.
Here are a couple of photos - you can see the orientation for power here - red (30 batt) and black (31 ground)
I tested and it takes 3.2A @ 13.8v you can see the extent of the extension while activated. Its quite fast acting - stays extended as long as the activation pulse is held and returns on deactivation - much faster cycle than the stock motor.
Have not installed yet - but seem to work great - nice design
Colin great idea - love it !!
Alan
Here are a couple of photos - you can see the orientation for power here - red (30 batt) and black (31 ground)
I tested and it takes 3.2A @ 13.8v you can see the extent of the extension while activated. Its quite fast acting - stays extended as long as the activation pulse is held and returns on deactivation - much faster cycle than the stock motor.
Have not installed yet - but seem to work great - nice design
Colin great idea - love it !!
Alan
Thread Starter
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 9,601
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From: Abbotsford B.C.
Good to see that you got one and that was quick!
And yes, it is MUCH faster than stock! The one I have in my car only drew 2.89 amps. The initial spike was about 3.1. But not enough to even think about with how fast its on/off.
And yes, it is MUCH faster than stock! The one I have in my car only drew 2.89 amps. The initial spike was about 3.1. But not enough to even think about with how fast its on/off.
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From: Phoenix AZ
With engine off and ~12.5v it would be less - thats probably the more common usage model - however the interior lights will certainly be on if you retain the door interlock - so very easy of you have interior LED's - if you have incandescents it may be getting close to the fuse limit but very short duration. This is fundamentally a simpler & better solution than stock (and cheap!)
Alan
Alan
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Nordschleife Master
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From: Abbotsford B.C.
I tested for 30 seconds on my S4 and saw no issues.
For the early car that I did it on, I tied into the power for the rear wiper, installed a relay by the wiper, and ran the ground trigger up to the fuse panel to the keyless entry system.
For the early car that I did it on, I tied into the power for the rear wiper, installed a relay by the wiper, and ran the ground trigger up to the fuse panel to the keyless entry system.
Burning Brakes
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From: Columbia, MO / San Luis Obispo, CA
With engine off and ~12.5v it would be less - thats probably the more common usage model - however the interior lights will certainly be on if you retain the door interlock - so very easy of you have interior LED's - if you have incandescents it may be getting close to the fuse limit but very short duration. This is fundamentally a simpler & better solution than stock (and cheap!)
Alan
Alan
Are you still selling 928 Electrics? I'd like to purchase a copy but your website doesn't seem to work. There is a section for Paypal and Download instructions, but it says "this feature is not yet activated"
Advanced
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Colin, what are you using for the remote fob?
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From: Phoenix AZ
I never did document the install of this VW release. My old release worked fine - but had given me various issues over the years - it was not a great design.
I used the VW Golf version which is a pusher design - not a puller like the one Colin showed.
I prefer this because there is no need to permanantly modify the factory hatch receiver at all - and the original equipment can be reinstalled later if needed.
All you need to do is unbolt the stock motor pop the ball out of the nylon receiver and then pop the nylon cup off the release arm - save the parts.
I made a bracket out of aluminum angle stock (Ace HW/Home Depot) and attached the VW release motor with some stand-offs. I added some bolts located as adjustable studs - So I could limit the protrusion out of the center support (and not have to deal with loose nuts & bolts). The lever arm runs between the motor and the bracket and is also located by the stand-offs. I screw attached a fabricated angle section to the release arm with a fork in the end to locate under the actuator stub.
The bracket is adjustable up/down exactly as the stock one is.
I modified the wiring on the unit to exit at the side for clearance with a pigtail connector.
Here are a couple of videos of operation too - its fast operating and relatively quiet (esp when all buttoned up).
Works as a direct replacement to my old hatch release and operates from both hatch pulls or the remote fob exactly as the old one did.
Video inside view of operation
Video outside view of operation
(....and yes I know the hatch looks like it hasn't been washed for 6 months...)
Alan
I used the VW Golf version which is a pusher design - not a puller like the one Colin showed.
I prefer this because there is no need to permanantly modify the factory hatch receiver at all - and the original equipment can be reinstalled later if needed.
All you need to do is unbolt the stock motor pop the ball out of the nylon receiver and then pop the nylon cup off the release arm - save the parts.
I made a bracket out of aluminum angle stock (Ace HW/Home Depot) and attached the VW release motor with some stand-offs. I added some bolts located as adjustable studs - So I could limit the protrusion out of the center support (and not have to deal with loose nuts & bolts). The lever arm runs between the motor and the bracket and is also located by the stand-offs. I screw attached a fabricated angle section to the release arm with a fork in the end to locate under the actuator stub.
The bracket is adjustable up/down exactly as the stock one is.
I modified the wiring on the unit to exit at the side for clearance with a pigtail connector.
Here are a couple of videos of operation too - its fast operating and relatively quiet (esp when all buttoned up).
Works as a direct replacement to my old hatch release and operates from both hatch pulls or the remote fob exactly as the old one did.
Video inside view of operation
Video outside view of operation
(....and yes I know the hatch looks like it hasn't been washed for 6 months...)
Alan
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From: Phoenix AZ
For me the failure mode wasn't that it wouldn't pop the hatch but more.... will it actually stop going around and around...
A few times it did stop quite normally until I closed the hatch - then it would do one more cycle to pop it again... and stop - until you closed the hatch again and on and on... just gets old.
It actually was working quite OK for the last year or so of use... but this was so easy to install and there is just less to go wrong - at least by design: it can't fail in the keep going mode...
Not much fabrication to do - easy install, smaller, quieter, cheap!
Alan
A few times it did stop quite normally until I closed the hatch - then it would do one more cycle to pop it again... and stop - until you closed the hatch again and on and on... just gets old.
It actually was working quite OK for the last year or so of use... but this was so easy to install and there is just less to go wrong - at least by design: it can't fail in the keep going mode...
Not much fabrication to do - easy install, smaller, quieter, cheap!
Alan
Last edited by Alan; Dec 19, 2013 at 08:54 PM.