69gaugeman

I hope some others will learn from my sad tale. Maybe Dwayne could update and add blue locktite to that nut.

If I had just done the timing belt I would take the three or four hours to go in and locktite the nut. If the threads were clean (no oil at all) and the correct torque value was used, there SHOULD be no problem. Your choice. Get a low tension light Emercency stop the engine and flatbed home and find out why. That's the lesson I learned Friday.

God I love the 16V engines. I drove 300km at sometimes 170km/h with a tensioner pulley that was missing all the *****......

Bill Ball

I guess I've been lucky, as usual. I don't loctite that nut. 30 ft lbs should have been fine.

69gaugeman

I agree on that in principal. I just wish I knew why it happened. I am sure it was a weird set of circumstances that came together to make this happen, but from now on I will add that bit of extra security. It costs nothing to do, and it can be easily removed when needed.

Bill Ball

Oh, just to be clear, I don't see a problem splashing Blue Loctite on almost any bolt or nut. The factory didn't in this case, and the WSM usually notes where they recommend it, but Loctite, at least the standard Blue one seems fine. Perhaps there was some other reason your gear came lose, but some threadlocker seems like a good precaution with this nut.

http://henkelna.com/us/content_data/...ide_032010.pdf

SeanR

I have never put Loctite on that nut, but don't see how it would hurt to do so. Just ensure you have the gear on there just as you took it off and use the proper torque.

Mrmerlin

maybe the keyway wasnt seated and thus when the gear went on it was held off its seat by the keyway,
thus after a few spins the nut came off since it wasnt seated .


I have never used loctite either and when fitting the gear,
I usually fit it on then remove it a few times to test the keyay placement,
its easy to hear the gear seat on the shaft and also easy to know when it doesnt.
Just a few test fitting si will tell you this

69gaugeman

Ya, as a machinist in a previous life I am acutely aware of woodruff keys and making sure they seat correctly.

I must have rotated that engine a hundred times (literally) when I put it back together. Twenty times just setting the gear timing. I am 100% sure that the gear was seated as the belt tracked perfectly. Even when I started it at first I checked how the belt was tracking.

Of course it is possible any of this could have happened. Just that I am pretty careful when it comes to these things and will pull everything off if I wasn't sure I had done it correctly.

newworld

69gaugeman.....

it seems to me that you did everything correctly and i also know that mac is a pro wrench as well...after all he did a bearing swap from underneath the car with engine insitu.

one question...did u have that spacer washer behind that oil pump gear? or did u have the steel?

second question--im just thinking out loud...but does the timing cover touch the oil pump bolt? or nut? if so....in some cases when assembling i can see that acting as a "hold" while the oil gear turns possibly loosening that bolt?

69gaugeman

Got the driver's side head off. All eight intake valves are bent. Ouch. I hope only exhaust valves are bent on the other side, otherwise this repair will grind to a halt while I order more valves......

Pictures on TOS

69gaugeman

Mine had the steel gear. The spacer was not in the back. No rubbing on the cover. I spun that engine over a hundred times. I would have heard it. but yes if it was rubbing it would want to remove the nut.

69gaugeman

So, I got the passengers side head off the car. There seems to be a lot of oil pooled in the bottom of the cylinders. This must be coming from the intake manifold and I assume is the cause of the excessive carbon build up in the cylinders. Anyone wanna guess what the problem is and what I should do?

As usual pictures on TOS

Mrmerlin

replace the rings and the valve stem seals and the guides if they are outta spec

Imo000

I think its old oil leftover in the intake from before the engine was faken apart. Guide seals are new and the leakdown number are good. That oil looks dirty and old. The engine oil only has 30km, amd still loks brand new so I think that oil was already there in the intake. Some spirited driving blown it everywhere in the manifold and now that it has been sitting for over a week, some dripped into the cylinders. That's my theory.

Bilal928S4

No new pictures at TOS.

69gaugeman

The valve guides I checked and they were all less than .5mm. The wear limit is .8mm according to the wsm.

Also all the stem seals are new from the last time I rebuilt it 30km ago, so I assume they haven't worn out yet.

I am leaning toward this too. I will vacuum out the line that comes from the bottom center of the intake manifold tonight and see what I get.