69gaugeman

This one had the steel gear already.

newworld

merlin....87s4 aut. i just removed my oil pump and put it back, then tightened nut. i have a washer on the front nut, did not apply blue loctite, but nothing was behind the oil pump gear.

since the timing belt is on, i guess i could back out the nut and put loctite on it with belt in place. if i were to remove oil pump gear, i need to remove timing belt...

i am just curious why many are having problems with oil pump pump gear....is the belt riding on the ridge? wearing it out? then walking the gear off the bolt?

trying to understand why this is happening to many....

newworld

i have noticed that when doing oil pump, timing belt, there are some little things that matter:

(1) tensioner if using oem, there is a small washer between spring and plastic insert that falls out or is missing

(2) tensioner oem....tried putting in stp ala merlin, would not bleed in at all, too viscous....ended up filling up boot and clamping it

(3) this oil pump....mine had not spacer in rear of gear??? should there be one?

upstate bob

are you speaking of the gear/nut in the middle of Rob Edwards' pic? Any way to either double nut it or
use aviation safety wire?

Kiln_Red

The common link between the case in this thread and on Brad Haugen's car is the absence of Loctite. I'm not sure how many other cases have been reported, but I imagine there are others where the wrong washer(s) were used or not correctly oriented.

Don Carter

I still have a set of 1R heads for sale for $950. They have been professionally rebuilt and leak tested and should be ready to go.

Shipping and packaging cost is around $100.

newworld

G92810716600 i found this part# as the spacer behind the oem oil pump gear. i am assuming there is a thicker washer in front with the nut, and this part# labelled spacer goes behind the oil pump gear.

then you need to loctite the bolt.

i assume that would be the method to follow. its real frustrating to assemble and find out something like this thread.

good news is that it can all be fixed with time and $. the question i have is to look at what common themes thru all my wrenching and this is what i come up with....

(1) bolts that goes into oil areas, or high heat, i.e. near exhuast are suspect.

(2) i read that for example inside the girdle, when putting on those allen bolts for the oil pickup use red loctite.

(3) our oil pan bolts near both sides of exhuast, need something to keep from backing out...either locking pins, star washers, loctite etc...

(4) there is a bolt on top of the tensioner that dwayne says goes thru oiled areas and he uses 574. again could be source of a future leak and loosening since touches oil

supercedar

I just did the TB WP on my 88 this past month following Dwaynes write up. There is no mention of blue loctite on the nut. Should I go back in and tite it? Replaced aluminum oil gear with new steel and removed 1mm spacer.

Thomas

the flyin' scotsman

I dont have my discs at work but IIRC the OP gear changed from aluminium to steel during a model year. I believe it was with this change to the gear the washer(s) changed.

Regardless of gear/washers I would loctite the nut and torque to spec IMHO

the flyin' scotsman

[quote=supercedar;10350506]I just did the TB WP on my 88 this past month following Dwaynes write up. There is no mention of blue loctite on the nut. Should I go back in and tite it? Replaced aluminum oil gear with new steel and removed 1mm spacer.

Thomas[/quote

Kiln_Red

Maybe GB, Stan, Colin, Sean, and others will weigh in with their thoughts as they have done this job many many times. I have used blue Loctite on the last two that I did. Also, I replaced the OE gear with the steel gear on both cars. My personal cars still have the aluminum oil pump gears at this time.

newworld

i just reread dwaynes writeup....as u all know great writeup. he might have used the back spacer or loctite on the oil pump but it is not pictured. the pics i see show washer on front, then torquing. he does have a pic of loctite on the top bolt of tensioner and he uses 574.

Bill Ball

1) Yep, often falls on the floor. Even in Dwayne's epic guide, you can see that he lost his if you compare before (it was there) with after (gone).

2) Pouring oil into the later tensioner (from MY83 on) from the boot end will not fill it completely as it fails to get past the valve or into the cavity in the block behind the tensioner.

3) The 1 mm spacer is only used with the original aluminum gear. If the gear was replaced with the updated steel gear, the spacer is deleted.

newworld

alum vs steel oil pump gear....the way the difference to what you have is to tell by weight?

anyother way to be sure?

69gaugeman

Use a magnet. Aluminum gear is non-magnetic.