Dave928S

I've posted these pics before, but here they are again so others don't have to search. You can clearly see the differences in shape of the Al and steel BJ's, so no need to use a magnet.

jpitman2

Also be aware you do NOT HAVE to replace the shock support plates - the only difference is the old units have longer studs to cope with the thickness of the alloy BJs vs the thinner steel BJs. If you are concerned about the extra bolt length protruding past the nuts, cut them off with an angle grinder or hack saw. They have always been this long, so if they havent already been damaged by impacts with debris or kerbs, why would that change now?
jp 83 Euro S AT 55k, steel joints

Dave928S

^ +1 on that.

To change to the steels you also need to get two (one for each side) new adjustment eccentrics. Al have a small and a large ... for the steel you need two of the larger size.

Fogey1

For reference purposes, here are a few more threads about aluminum ball joints:

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...t-failure.html

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ll-joints.html

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ggestions.html

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-carriers.html

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ccentrics.html

LT Texan

Considering it is 2013 and your's is a 1978, I guess it's fair to say you got your money's worth out of those old alum ball joints, and it is surely time to replace them.