Aluminum Ball Joint Carriers
01-29-2004, 06:39 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Aluminum Ball Joint Carriers
I had been wanting to replace the aluminum ball joint carriers on my '82, but was concerned about setting the alignment (especially since the camber and caster adjustments are reversed on the steel carriers) so that I wouldn't trash my front tires while I waited for the ride height to settle back down so that I could take it in for a "professional" alignment.
After pondering the problem for a while (I've had the new ball joints since last June) I came up with way to approximate the alignment & not trash my tires. You will need a laser level ($13 bucks at Costco) that shoots a "+" or crosshair pattern, a second level short enough to fit inside the wheel well and a "C" clamp.
First, jack up the front of your car, support it on jackstands and remove the front wheels. Then turn your steering wheel with the ignition off so that it locks in the straight ahead position. Next, take the laser level and clamp it to the brake rotor so that the laser points towards the floor. Place the second level against the laser level and adjust the laser level clamped to the brake rotor so that it is perpendicular to the floor. (By definition, the brake rotor tends to rotate.) Turn on the laser and cover the crosshair pattern on the floor with masking tape. Double check that your laser is still perpendicular to the floor and then take a "Sharpie" or similar pen and trace the laser crosshair on the masking tape using a straight edge. Turn off the laser, unlock the steering and turn the wheel so that you have access to which ever side you're starting on.
After you have replaced the ball joint and bolted everything back together, turn the steering wheel so that it locks in the straight ahead position again. Adjust the laser level so that it is again perpendicular to the floor. Turn on the laser and adjust the camber and caster eccentrics so that the laser crosshair lines up with the marks that you have previously traced on the floor, tighten the eccentric nuts, repeat on the other side and you're done!
Your alignment won't be any better than it was before you started, but it shouldn't be any worse either.
By the way, the $13.50 ToolAid "Tie Rod End/Ball Joint Lifter" available from www.mytoolstore.com works just fine.
My appologies if I've reinvented the wheel.
James
After pondering the problem for a while (I've had the new ball joints since last June) I came up with way to approximate the alignment & not trash my tires. You will need a laser level ($13 bucks at Costco) that shoots a "+" or crosshair pattern, a second level short enough to fit inside the wheel well and a "C" clamp.
First, jack up the front of your car, support it on jackstands and remove the front wheels. Then turn your steering wheel with the ignition off so that it locks in the straight ahead position. Next, take the laser level and clamp it to the brake rotor so that the laser points towards the floor. Place the second level against the laser level and adjust the laser level clamped to the brake rotor so that it is perpendicular to the floor. (By definition, the brake rotor tends to rotate.) Turn on the laser and cover the crosshair pattern on the floor with masking tape. Double check that your laser is still perpendicular to the floor and then take a "Sharpie" or similar pen and trace the laser crosshair on the masking tape using a straight edge. Turn off the laser, unlock the steering and turn the wheel so that you have access to which ever side you're starting on.
After you have replaced the ball joint and bolted everything back together, turn the steering wheel so that it locks in the straight ahead position again. Adjust the laser level so that it is again perpendicular to the floor. Turn on the laser and adjust the camber and caster eccentrics so that the laser crosshair lines up with the marks that you have previously traced on the floor, tighten the eccentric nuts, repeat on the other side and you're done!
Your alignment won't be any better than it was before you started, but it shouldn't be any worse either.
By the way, the $13.50 ToolAid "Tie Rod End/Ball Joint Lifter" available from www.mytoolstore.com works just fine.
My appologies if I've reinvented the wheel.
James
01-30-2004, 02:17 AM
#3
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My approach, since I was in there painting things anyways was to remove the spring/shock units.
That done, I made some aluminum blocks just a tad higher than the minimum ground clearance at the measurement points on the lower A-arms. When I had the new ball joints in, the car sat right down on the blocks. Perfect height. I put tape down under the wheels to give me a + and - 20 degree line for the caster measurement.
I just adjusted the caster and camber and it should be the same after it settles down when I drive her next trime.
That done, I made some aluminum blocks just a tad higher than the minimum ground clearance at the measurement points on the lower A-arms. When I had the new ball joints in, the car sat right down on the blocks. Perfect height. I put tape down under the wheels to give me a + and - 20 degree line for the caster measurement.
I just adjusted the caster and camber and it should be the same after it settles down when I drive her next trime.
01-30-2004, 05:01 AM
#4
Burning Brakes
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James,
Yes, your theory can secure that the camber is (almost) like before, but all together the wheel alignment is relatively complex
If you have the possibility, see the 928 Forum Magazine # 4, here you have a complete DIY alignment instruction, and if you invest the needed time for the study, you can do it yourself, and that’s a big challenge
Regards from Erik in Denmark
Yes, your theory can secure that the camber is (almost) like before, but all together the wheel alignment is relatively complex
If you have the possibility, see the 928 Forum Magazine # 4, here you have a complete DIY alignment instruction, and if you invest the needed time for the study, you can do it yourself, and that’s a big challenge
Regards from Erik in Denmark
01-30-2004, 04:21 PM
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Erik:
The method I outlined above is not intended as a substitute for a full alignment, but rather a "stop gap" method of getting the caster and camber settings "close enough" to be able to drive the car enough to allow the front suspension to return to the static ride height before taking it in to the shop for an alignment.
James
The method I outlined above is not intended as a substitute for a full alignment, but rather a "stop gap" method of getting the caster and camber settings "close enough" to be able to drive the car enough to allow the front suspension to return to the static ride height before taking it in to the shop for an alignment.
James
01-30-2004, 05:27 PM
#6
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That was a great post James,
I think the point you made is often overlooked when advice is given to replace the aluminum joints. Especially since its being jacked up, you have to give it some miles to get it settled back to normal.
Cheers
I think the point you made is often overlooked when advice is given to replace the aluminum joints. Especially since its being jacked up, you have to give it some miles to get it settled back to normal.
Cheers
08-05-2011, 06:43 PM
#7
Burning Brakes
Thanks to James for your helpful suggestion posted in 04. Just found out about, and changed, my aluminum balljoints this summer. After reading on this forum I thought I had the last 928 with aluminum balljoint carriers until I saw one at a recent show and shine. So, figured I'd post some pics for any other newbies like me who haven't yet done the job.
I've never posted before so I'm not sure how to embed pics (looks like one somehow needs to put them on the web first??), so I'm including them as attachments (sorry about that). Attachments 4 (showing the laser level set-up) and 11 (showing how much the alignment was out after changing the carriers) are probably the only ones of interest, but thought I'd include the others for any newby mechanics like me who are thinking about doing the job themselves.
Figured I didn't need to do a description since an excellent description of the procedure can already be found on this forum (search "step by step lower balljoint replacement online?"). Additional info. is as follows:
1. I didn't use a second level because I set-up my C-clamp at rest against the tin plate behind the rotor. I.e., the rotor would not turn once the C-clamp made contact with tin plate, so I simply lined it up before and after the balljoint change with the C-clamp at rest against the plate. Thought this would be easier when doing the job alone. But, I would suggest using the second level in case the C-clamp somehow moves (I also put some tape on the rotor marking where the level goes in case the C-clamp came off for some reason).
2. My laser level makes a dot instead of a crosshair, but that worked just fine.
3. I changed the nuts that hold the ball joint on because one of them didn't come off very easily and was a bit damaged. I could only get an M12 x 1.25 for a VW, which changed the outer dimension of the nut from a 19mm to 18mm.
4. I also changed the upper A arm boots. In addition to the tricky clamps for the boot (though not as bad as I thought they'd be), after unseating the joint and removing the nut it feels as though there may not be enough room to get the joint out of the steering knuckle because the upper a arm hits the coil spring. The trick is to push the steering knuckle and balljoint as far as you can toward the engine compartment and there is just enough room to get the ball joint out.
I've never posted before so I'm not sure how to embed pics (looks like one somehow needs to put them on the web first??), so I'm including them as attachments (sorry about that). Attachments 4 (showing the laser level set-up) and 11 (showing how much the alignment was out after changing the carriers) are probably the only ones of interest, but thought I'd include the others for any newby mechanics like me who are thinking about doing the job themselves.
Figured I didn't need to do a description since an excellent description of the procedure can already be found on this forum (search "step by step lower balljoint replacement online?"). Additional info. is as follows:
1. I didn't use a second level because I set-up my C-clamp at rest against the tin plate behind the rotor. I.e., the rotor would not turn once the C-clamp made contact with tin plate, so I simply lined it up before and after the balljoint change with the C-clamp at rest against the plate. Thought this would be easier when doing the job alone. But, I would suggest using the second level in case the C-clamp somehow moves (I also put some tape on the rotor marking where the level goes in case the C-clamp came off for some reason).
2. My laser level makes a dot instead of a crosshair, but that worked just fine.
3. I changed the nuts that hold the ball joint on because one of them didn't come off very easily and was a bit damaged. I could only get an M12 x 1.25 for a VW, which changed the outer dimension of the nut from a 19mm to 18mm.
4. I also changed the upper A arm boots. In addition to the tricky clamps for the boot (though not as bad as I thought they'd be), after unseating the joint and removing the nut it feels as though there may not be enough room to get the joint out of the steering knuckle because the upper a arm hits the coil spring. The trick is to push the steering knuckle and balljoint as far as you can toward the engine compartment and there is just enough room to get the ball joint out.
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08-05-2011, 10:02 PM
#9
Rennlist Member
I might have tried replacing the "pincher" screw before I went for the pickle jar.
Here are some pix:
http://www.mytoolstore.com/toolaid/suspn02.html
http://www.amazon.com/Tie-Rod-Ball-J.../dp/B00447Z6DG
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...AT500_pg45.htm
And a review site:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/disconnect.html
Here are some pix:
http://www.mytoolstore.com/toolaid/suspn02.html
http://www.amazon.com/Tie-Rod-Ball-J.../dp/B00447Z6DG
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...AT500_pg45.htm
And a review site:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/disconnect.html
