Clutch Master or slave cyl.?
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Clutch Master or slave cyl.?
Been a while folks, How's everyone? I have been away for a while and so has my 928. so let skip to the point.
I quit driving it about a year ago because of this problem:
Its an 86.5 5spd. Always drove fine had a strong clutch. Started noticing bearing noises when in neutral at at drive or something. I could push clutch in and it would stop. I assumed throw out bearing.
A few months later one day the clutch pedal felt soft and spongy, but it really didn't stick all the way to the floor but you had to pull it back with your toe. It got me home but I had to pump it to get pressure to clutch.
It sat for a while and now it acts normal half the time. I don't have to pump it every time and the fluids are all full.
I'm wondering about a failing slave or master cylinder or maybe something else. I know that the longer I drive it and the more I use the clutch hydraulics it gets worse.
Sorry for the long, boring and rambling post....lol its late and im getting in the mood to fix the ole girl up again.
I quit driving it about a year ago because of this problem:
Its an 86.5 5spd. Always drove fine had a strong clutch. Started noticing bearing noises when in neutral at at drive or something. I could push clutch in and it would stop. I assumed throw out bearing.
A few months later one day the clutch pedal felt soft and spongy, but it really didn't stick all the way to the floor but you had to pull it back with your toe. It got me home but I had to pump it to get pressure to clutch.
It sat for a while and now it acts normal half the time. I don't have to pump it every time and the fluids are all full.
I'm wondering about a failing slave or master cylinder or maybe something else. I know that the longer I drive it and the more I use the clutch hydraulics it gets worse.
Sorry for the long, boring and rambling post....lol its late and im getting in the mood to fix the ole girl up again.
#2
I have the exact same problem. Dropped the car off earlier in the week to my mechanic. He found a leak in the hose behind the brake booster for the clucth master. Pain in the *** to get access to as you have to remove the booster to do it. Told it is about a 6hr job. Good luck
#3
Rennlist Member
Not long or boring. Sounds like a clutch job may be in your future. And in addition, if something is leaking, there should be evidence. Have you looked under the carpet at clutch pedal to see fluid? That would be from the master; or there is a hose to the hard line to the slave. That hose may not give a warning and if it is old, would be good to replace during the clutch R&R.
#4
^^ what he said. Look for fluids at the clutch master. I'd plan on doing the Master, slave and blue hose. A shop shouldn't charge more than 6 hours for the entire job and the cost of parts is not too bad. The bearing noise you are hearing is most likely the pilot bearing so unless you can deal with the noise until it's time to do a clutch job, just deal with it. If you can't, expect to spend a lot for a proper clutch replacement. That job also will run around 6 hours but the parts are the high part if done properly.
#5
Team Owner
more than likely its TT bearings going bad,
if you push in the clutch then noise stops,
Thus the pilot is turning but the TT bearings are not,
The TOB spins all the time and its noise if its making any will change a bit as a load is placed on the bearing.
As Sean said figure to replace the whole hydraulic system so you dont have to do it 3 times.
Make sure that the old piston and spring are used , from the old MC , also swap over the seals.
The new MC are not made to the same spec and thus the throw they have is reduced so you can then get a dragging clutch with the new parts
Parts you need
blue hose
new MC
new slave
new flex line
also it would be good to drop the clutch to inspect the TOB and the pilot bearing,
and you will prolly be dropping the TT for a rebuild
if you push in the clutch then noise stops,
Thus the pilot is turning but the TT bearings are not,
The TOB spins all the time and its noise if its making any will change a bit as a load is placed on the bearing.
As Sean said figure to replace the whole hydraulic system so you dont have to do it 3 times.
Make sure that the old piston and spring are used , from the old MC , also swap over the seals.
The new MC are not made to the same spec and thus the throw they have is reduced so you can then get a dragging clutch with the new parts
Parts you need
blue hose
new MC
new slave
new flex line
also it would be good to drop the clutch to inspect the TOB and the pilot bearing,
and you will prolly be dropping the TT for a rebuild
#7
Drifting
Thread Starter
OK, a little follow up. Ive been starting the ole bird up and keeping it lubed up for the last 18 months. I go out the last two times (every two weeks) and now the darn clutch feels as good as new again. Plenty of pressure going down and springs all the way up. Took it around the block and it hooks up fine, side stepped the clutch to find a weak spot and once it grabbed it peeled the tires. Weird. I guess there must be a hydraulic part on its way out that must have "resealed" itself temporarily or there was air in the system for no reason. Who knows.
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#8
Rennlist Member
I had the same thing happen on the brakes in my 81, they would be soft and have lots of peal travel
but then one day would have a nice firm pedal and more stopping power.
I guess the hydraulics on these cars can be a bit finicky.
but then one day would have a nice firm pedal and more stopping power.
I guess the hydraulics on these cars can be a bit finicky.