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My 928 was vandalized in SoCal...need advice on auto body repair

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Old 03-08-2013, 11:29 AM
  #61  
Kiln_Red
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Good size hail jobs generally have only 100-120 total labor hours.
Old 03-08-2013, 05:30 PM
  #62  
billyxking
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Originally Posted by mickster
Billy-this is why I said meet them at your body shop, not at home. If they can get the parts that cheap-I'd like to know from where!
Appreciate the feedback, but without getting too personal...it was a logistical decision to have it appraised by ECC on my own time and then have geico look at that appraisal and give an estimate less than a mile from where I work.

But right now the car is at ECC and they're going to fight GEICO for me, and hopefully set them straight.
Old 03-08-2013, 05:48 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by danglerb
What parts does Geico see as $570 vs $1484? Are they talking about used or new parts?

Good choice, let the shop and Geico work it out if they can.

Shop labor seems like the weirdest thing about body shops, $40 to $48 is a crazy low amount for any mechanic, but it must be some industry thing where hourly rate is kept low, and offset by billed hours.
FROM THE GEICO ESTIMATE:
Replacement Left Window frame Lower : $168.91
Replacement Left Window Porsche Bronze: $339.63
Replacement Left Drip molding : $62.30

---

FROM ECC ESTIMATE:
Left Window frame Lower (928 537 313 04 70K): $168.91
Left Window Porsche Bronze (928 537 101 02): $598.98
Left door weatherstripping (928 537 345 05): $306.55
Left Drip molding (928 559 119 04 004): $62.30
Left Qtr Glass Moveable Sealing Frame w/ Strip (928 543 045 04): $191.29
Calking tint and other parts to properly complete project: $44

---

Basically the difference is that GEICO thinks ECC should just shut up and cover/paint everything. ECC thinks things should come apart.

For example: the rear quarter should come off and the window should be removed, but GEICO says it should just be covered and the removal of the quarter window is unnecessary because it'll destroy the $191 dollar Sealing frame.

---

I agree about the rates. I think it's probably because most of the standard auto body shops are getting funded mostly by insurance companies, they probably can't get away with as much as mechanics can.
Old 03-08-2013, 06:15 PM
  #64  
GregBBRD
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ECC is so trusted by some of the insurnace companies, that they do not even send over adjusters to look at the stuff, they just pay the bill. I know this happened with my customer than had his '89 GT redone, from hail damage, there.

Let them fight the insurance company. They know what to say and when they need to say it.

The whole thing is such a game. Insurance companies know that shops can't pay their workers and keep the doors open at $40 per hour....but they think they have so much "pull" that they can get away with it.

ECC is a factory approved facility.

It's not Juan's and Jose's bondo palace.

Big difference.
Old 03-08-2013, 06:33 PM
  #65  
polecat702
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Next time get an agreed value policy. I had one on my 87. When they found out I wanted it taken to Ron Ruf, they gave me the agreed price.

FWIW, This is the 2nd time my policy has renewed since the 87 was totaled. We up'd the value on all the cars and my bikes, only went up $211.43, not much considering, my 36 Knucklehead is valued at 200K.
Old 03-08-2013, 07:18 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by GregBBRD
ECC is so trusted by some of the insurnace companies, that they do not even send over adjusters to look at the stuff, they just pay the bill. I know this happened with my customer than had his '89 GT redone, from hail damage, there.

Let them fight the insurance company. They know what to say and when they need to say it.

The whole thing is such a game. Insurance companies know that shops can't pay their workers and keep the doors open at $40 per hour....but they think they have so much "pull" that they can get away with it.

ECC is a factory approved facility.

It's not Juan's and Jose's bondo palace.

Big difference.

Thanks for the vote of confidence, Greg. Good to know that you think I'm doing the right thing. Thanks to everyone else here for recommending them!

Originally Posted by polecat702
Next time get an agreed value policy. I had one on my 87. When they found out I wanted it taken to Ron Ruf, they gave me the agreed price.

FWIW, This is the 2nd time my policy has renewed since the 87 was totaled. We up'd the value on all the cars and my bikes, only went up $211.43, not much considering, my 36 Knucklehead is valued at 200K.
I understand the need for an agreed upon value policy in most classic or custom car cases. We'll see what happens when/if they start talking about totaling the vehicle.
Old 03-08-2013, 08:09 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by billyxking
Thanks for the vote of confidence, Greg. Good to know that you think I'm doing the right thing. Thanks to everyone else here for recommending them!



I understand the need for an agreed upon value policy in most classic or custom car cases. We'll see what happens when/if they start talking about totaling the vehicle.
Just tell the insurance company that if they can show you a picture, in the factory workshop manual, of anyone doing paint work with the window in, you'll be fine with that.

.....Or if the window wasn't removed and was just taped up, when the car was painted the last time, you'll also be fine with it.

You can't ask for them to do better work than what was on the car, but you also don't need to accept sub-standard work.

They knew they were insuring a Porsche, not a Caprice Classic, when they wrote the policy.
Old 03-08-2013, 08:24 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by GregBBRD
Just tell the insurance company that if they can show you a picture, in the factory workshop manual, of anyone doing paint work with the window in, you'll be fine with that.

.....Or if the window wasn't removed and was just taped up, when the car was painted the last time, you'll also be fine with it.

You can't ask for them to do better work than what was on the car, but you also don't need to accept sub-standard work.

They knew they were insuring a Porsche, not a Caprice Classic, when they wrote the policy.
The car's roof was painted before. Geico's adjuster mentioned that they simply "masked it".
Old 03-08-2013, 08:43 PM
  #69  
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The shops that still mask quarter glasses, belt moldings, etc. aren't up to 21st century standards. The quarter glass on a 928 HAS to be removed. Taping the sunroof on a 928 isn't an option for me, either.
Old 03-08-2013, 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Kiln_Red
The shops that still mask quarter glasses, belt moldings, etc. aren't up to 21st century standards. The quarter glass on a 928 HAS to be removed. Taping the sunroof on a 928 isn't an option for me, either.
Good to know, thank you. ECC said the sunroof had to be dismantled. Just curious...why MUST the quarter glass be removed. And why must the taping not be done? Bad lines?
Old 03-08-2013, 09:45 PM
  #71  
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The first and most obvious reason is because the masking job is never perfect. You can always clearly see a tape edge or evidence of taping somewhere. More importantly, auto paint relies on sanding or scuffing for adhesion. You can never properly scuff well enough around the glass to guarantee adhesion. Also, film build plays a factor. Even if it scuffed well enough, achieving the correct film build to guarantee the job is impossible because you're only allowing paint to blow in around the moldings. You can't get the right coverage with the glass in.
Old 03-08-2013, 11:06 PM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by Kiln_Red
The first and most obvious reason is because the masking job is never perfect. You can always clearly see a tape edge or evidence of taping somewhere. More importantly, auto paint relies on sanding or scuffing for adhesion. You can never properly scuff well enough around the glass to guarantee adhesion. Also, film build plays a factor. Even if it scuffed well enough, achieving the correct film build to guarantee the job is impossible because you're only allowing paint to blow in around the moldings. You can't get the right coverage with the glass in.
That's very detailed. Thanks for the explanation. You mean that basically you need to wrap the edge inside a molding so the paint doesn't peel and chip?
Old 03-08-2013, 11:26 PM
  #73  
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The glass and sunroof need to be removed to be scuffed and the edges coated evenly as the euro shop quoted. This is true for any car. Not just P cars. Yes, painting it with those parts installed creates a higher risk for peeling.
Old 03-09-2013, 04:40 AM
  #74  
danglerb
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Originally Posted by billyxking
FROM THE GEICO ESTIMATE:
Replacement Left Window frame Lower : $168.91
Replacement Left Window Porsche Bronze: $339.63
Replacement Left Drip molding : $62.30

---

FROM ECC ESTIMATE:
Left Window frame Lower (928 537 313 04 70K): $168.91
Left Window Porsche Bronze (928 537 101 02): $598.98
Left door weatherstripping (928 537 345 05): $306.55
Left Drip molding (928 559 119 04 004): $62.30
Left Qtr Glass Moveable Sealing Frame w/ Strip (928 543 045 04): $191.29
Calking tint and other parts to properly complete project: $44

---

Basically the difference is that GEICO thinks ECC should just shut up and cover/paint everything. ECC thinks things should come apart.

For example: the rear quarter should come off and the window should be removed, but GEICO says it should just be covered and the removal of the quarter window is unnecessary because it'll destroy the $191 dollar Sealing frame.

---

I agree about the rates. I think it's probably because most of the standard auto body shops are getting funded mostly by insurance companies, they probably can't get away with as much as mechanics can.
From 928Intl.com
928 537 015 02 Left Bronze Door Glass $374.00

U928 537 015 02 Used Left Door Glass Bronze $125.00

928 537 345 05 Left Door Seal 78-95 $175.00

If it ends up coming out of your pocket, some options to consider. Used side windows don't really wear like a front windshield.
Old 03-12-2013, 06:10 PM
  #75  
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Hey all. Just an update. Geico came up about 2k on their final estimate, and I'm at the crossroads of figuring out what I want to do with the car. I honestly don't want to dump that much money back into the car, it doesn't make sense for someone like me to do. Sadly I am going to have to part with this project and take my losses. After almost exactly a year of ownership, I've decided to sell the car. I can't have two cars right now and don't have time/money to sort out this repair.

PM me if you're interested in purchasing it for parts or for enjoyment. 112k miles, 1986 928S 5.0L 32V. I'm obviously set on selling the car as is. I'm in southern california, obviously, and would love to entertain anyone willing to come check it out! The car runs great, but obviously now has a big ugly dent. Please PM me for info


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