GregBBRD

The "slots" are relatively large....and there's another "slot" in the rear. Add up all of this "slot slop" up and there is quite a bit of potential difference where the shaft can end up.

jbrob007

Woooooo Hoooooooo!!!! Not that I want to JINX myself but I think were done! Once I got the central shaft bolted to the coupler I gave it a slight push towards the pressure plate and she slipped right into the pilot... Whew!!! Got everything buttoned up just before it started to POUR cats & dogs outside! So I just started her up... put into 1st & bumped her forward a few feet... then Reverse and bumped her back a few feet... tried each gear and it seems to be working. Clutch is very smooth & feather-lite! I'll take her out tomorrow if the rain lets up to see if it'll stay together at 80 mph... but it didnt disintergrate in the garage, no spare parts lying around, and it went into gear easily so I'll take that as a good sign!!!

Damn, I'm tired!!! Gotta give a special thanks to ALL you guys for your assistance!! Seriously, thank you very very much!!! Well, its Miller Time!!!

Ducman82

what? no pictures.....??> :-P

jbrob007

I would have taken pictures but my arms were shaking sooooo much I couldnt keep them in focus

Ducman82

i hear that....... my arms hurt thinking about it...

jbrob007

This dual disc clutch is the strangest thing I've ever had the "pleasure" of owning. The entire unit has been disassembled, worn parts replaced with new, greased all the correct parts with Molybenadenadumadumaden (whatever you call that special grease) and put back togther per the WSM. Everything is torqued down with no vibration at speed (up to 100 mph today). It engages & disengages well, the tranny shifts somewhat better (I think I have a syncronizer issue frankly) and the pedal is featherlite & smooth. Theres no slip between gears, grabs hard if you want to run it hard, etc... Really happy about that...

But ( seems like theres always a BUT ) it still has a slight shudder when letting the clutch out in 1st... when the plates are just making contact... pedal about half way out... Frustrating as hell... The only POSSIBLE reason could be the disc pads have worn unevenly while the throwout bearing & pilot bearing were acting up... the TO bearing wasnt BAD per se, but it wasnt GOOD either. The Pilot bearing was functioning but dry & needed to be changed. We measured the disc pads and did have some uneven wear but all within spec. Not sure if there is anything that can be done other than live with it until the discs need changing. When the discs finally wear out (could take me a while since I drive like a Grandma) the clutch may go the way of the DoDo Bird as I'll probably switch to a Spec Single Disc clutch and call it a day

On the bright side, at least NOW I'll know how to change it out!!

jbrob007

Excuse me.... I suppose I shouldnt say "the only POSSIBLE reason could be..." I'll let you guys be the judge of what could possibly be causing this issue.

Bilal928S4

Do a couple of clutch dumps and it will all even out. Or you will need new clutch plates.

jbrob007

Could "hot spots" cause this kind of symptom...? There were a few relatively minor looking hot spots in the intermediate plate & pressure plate.

mark kibort

Im still healing from my clutch job, on my back 4 weeks ago. i think i tore my bicepts tendon when the mess of clutch pack "STUFF" fell down when i thougth it was stuck in a position to start putting bolts in and pushing short shafts in. your arms are in a position where they are very outstretched, and your shoulder joints are vunrable. when something falls and you react to the falling 25lb mass, your body wont like it! UGGGGG! painful, and im in good weightlifting shape too!! anyway, the trick i found was a little dab of jbweld on the locating pins so that when you put the pressure plate, discs and intermediate plate, short shaft package, up in the bell housing, all you need to worry about is the damn thing lining up, not falling apart and then falling down! (or getting jammed up too) mark the flywheel starter teeth AND the pressure plate assembly (with a magic marker) then , when you push the package back up on installation, you know things are going to line up perfectly.

I did this job 4 times in 1 week, so i was in and out in 2hours the last time, 5-9 hours the first time with all the problems i was having keeping the package together as it went in the bell housing. i remember after hour 3 one time, i had finally found that eureka moment as the short shaft found the pilot bearing, ONLY to realize that the guide sleave was on the wrong side of the mount of the bell housing. UGGGG!
3-4 hours later i got it to go in................. but as my story went, all for not, as my throwout bearing and ring clip were very bad.

anyway, the problem with this job, as you soon forget all the little tricks you learn to get it in, by the next time you have to do one!

Glad you got it all together!

mk

BRB-83-911SC

Can you feel it or is more of a rattling noise as the disks take up? I ask, because mine rattle between full release and initial take-up, and am wondering if this is a normal characteristic of the DD clutches. I have a new release bearing, guide tube, fresh grease - it did this before R&R and after....

69gaugeman

A shudder is caused by the disks hooking up and letting go and hooking up and letting go in rapid succession. Usually this is caused by an uneven flywheel and yes hot spots can cause this issue. So can a glazed fiber disk. Did you de-glaze all the parts that rub together?

If the clutch was shuddering before and the flywheel or intermediate plate were not resurfaced and or the pressure plate was not replaced, then you may be looking at removing it to do so.

Try the clutch dump trick a few times as this may bed in the fiber on the disks. Don't actually just dump the clutch, but VERY aggressive hookup would be in order. Try that a few times first.

jbrob007

The WSM states the Intermediate Plate and the Pressure Plate can not be reconditioned... or words to that effect. I cleaned up both sides of the intermediate plate, pressure plate & flywheel with Emory Cloth & wiped clean prior to reassembly. And, like yours... mine did this before and after R&R... Damn I'll give the hard clutch drop a few tries just for the hellofit Hate to go through all that trouble just to have to do it again... A used intermediate plate, pressure plate and/or flywheel could very easily have the same issues as the current ones (they did not look bad at all with only a few relatrively minor hot spots). And NEW parts are pretty cost prohibitive

Landseer

If minor shudder, considering you deglazed metal by hand, old school, bedding-in should solve.

If not, could be something else. Did you happen to snap any pictures of install?.

BTW, it is much faster the second time, esp. when everything is still clean.

And, at least you didn't have to beat the corroded pins out with a sledgehammer like I did.
(I dress the pins with 400 paper in oil before reinstall, then wipe them, then tap in)

jbrob007

Nope... no pics but I followed the WSM for reinstall... Everything looks to be in order. The clutch works well as far as engaugement / disengaugement, but the shuddering DRIVES ME CRAZY... Must be the OCD in me... I guess I'll be doing this again eventually - I'm thinking it cant be good for the TO bearing, Pilot & torque tube bearings