How to use the Other Gear Options for an Automatic.
#31
Although the "Mercedes" 4 speed is quite robust...like anything that is fun, there is a price to be paid for starting in 1st and then "rowing" through the gears.
Don't be surprsied when the "rebuilder" tells you the planetary has the pins pounded and a new/used planetary is required....
Gas, grass, or ***....no one rides for free.
Don't be surprsied when the "rebuilder" tells you the planetary has the pins pounded and a new/used planetary is required....
Gas, grass, or ***....no one rides for free.
#32
This is certainly an interesting conversation, maybe answers a few questions, maybe not. I've always wondered. Back when I autocrossed my 90 S4, years ago, always kept it in D2, the only way for the kickdown to go to first, in my car anyhow. That was good enough for autocross as speeds are probably 45-50 mph at best. So, if I take off at in D2, get near 6,000 rpm in D2 (shifted into 2nd gear), I can just push the "button", shift into D3, without ever taking my foot off the gas, and nothing will be damaged?
#33
Former Sponsor
This is certainly an interesting conversation, maybe answers a few questions, maybe not. I've always wondered. Back when I autocrossed my 90 S4, years ago, always kept it in D2, the only way for the kickdown to go to first, in my car anyhow. That was good enough for autocross as speeds are probably 45-50 mph at best. So, if I take off at in D2, get near 6,000 rpm in D2 (shifted into 2nd gear), I can just push the "button", shift into D3, without ever taking my foot off the gas, and nothing will be damaged?
Kind of depends on your transmission's condition.
A good transmission will do this, without issue.
Even if your transmisison has 150,000 miles on it....it probably will, since 3rd gear clutches are not the first thing to wear out.
#34
OK, have always been afraid to do that, figured I blow something up. She has only 62k miles so I think the tranny is good. Just "push the button" while floored and shift into D3? Won't she redline in that instant while you're pushing the button and shifting into D3?
#35
Rennlist Member
You shouldn't need to push the button at all... just move the shifter handle to 3.
This is similar to the 'SlapStik' shifter from Mopar muscle cars with automatics -you simply had to 'slap the stick' to up shift. Down shifts DO require pushing the button (and to go into R)... except from D to 3 -just pull back on the handle.
This is similar to the 'SlapStik' shifter from Mopar muscle cars with automatics -you simply had to 'slap the stick' to up shift. Down shifts DO require pushing the button (and to go into R)... except from D to 3 -just pull back on the handle.
#36
Rennlist Member
I also have the kickdown switch permanetly shorted so I get better response when driving in the automatic mode.
#37
Rennlist Member
It depends on how your Bowden cable is set. Mine is set loose, so there's a slight gap in the shift to allow you to do this. (Probably a lot harder on the tranny to have it set up like this) I've driven other A/T's on the track where the downshift was too fast to do this.
#38
Rennlist Member
I always thought it caused the transmission to stay in the lowest possible gear that engine RPM would allow. Meaning a permanent closure of the circuit would cause all shifts to be near red line.
That is how it works for me but then I only activate the switch with the accelerator pedal.
Was my thinking incorrect? Someone please explain, in detail, the operation of this “kick down” switch circuit. Thank you. DPM.
#39
Rennlist Member
I believe you like to run the auto like a "semi-manual" for more control using the stick hence backing off the kick down cable to let you select when you want to change.
With my set up I get the thing to change up generally by backing off a tad a high rpm's or hold it until it changes automatically. As the auto change goes at about 6200 rpm and the torque is dying on the S4 motor I prefer to induce the shift up just before the auto wants to [at about 6k rpm]. If I am in top and want to hit 3rd I prefer to use the lever and as I pull the level back I push the throttle a tad just as I would on a manual tranny- seems easy to coordinate.
The one thing I do not like and avoid it more or less altogether is dropping down to second using the stick. It just does not feel right to me. I have done it but do not like it. By and large I can induce the box to drop into second from 3rd as I want it.
In auto cross events I leave it in second unless and until I have enough scope to need third. The only I find is that the shift form 2nd to 1st is somewhat unpredicable no matter how you sert it up. Clearly we were never intended to do that!
Regards
Fred
#40
Rennlist Member
Ok, now I have to ask, what does the “kick down” switch do? I assume you are referring to the switch activated by full application of the accelerator pedal? Does closure of this circuit only cause momentary operation in the next lower gear or what exactly does it do?
I always thought it caused the transmission to stay in the lowest possible gear that engine RPM would allow. Meaning a permanent closure of the circuit would cause all shifts to be near red line.
That is how it works for me but then I only activate the switch with the accelerator pedal.
Was my thinking incorrect? Someone please explain, in detail, the operation of this “kick down” switch circuit. Thank you. DPM.
I always thought it caused the transmission to stay in the lowest possible gear that engine RPM would allow. Meaning a permanent closure of the circuit would cause all shifts to be near red line.
That is how it works for me but then I only activate the switch with the accelerator pedal.
Was my thinking incorrect? Someone please explain, in detail, the operation of this “kick down” switch circuit. Thank you. DPM.
Just try it, put a temporary jumper across the pins and drive it, try it. If you don't like the way it works, remove it and go back to stock.
#42
Rennlist Member
As Wally said - "When this switch is closed (on), the transmission will be more reluctant to upshift, and more eager to downshift. This gives the equivalent to the "sport mode" found on some of the newer sporty sedans."
Just try it, put a temporary jumper across the pins and drive it, try it. If you don't like the way it works, remove it and go back to stock.
Just try it, put a temporary jumper across the pins and drive it, try it. If you don't like the way it works, remove it and go back to stock.
It will be an illuminated momentary push button or rocker.
One push picks a relay which latches itself, illuminates “SPORT” indicator and activates kick down.
Another push drops relay and deactivates kick down.
When ignition switch is turned off relay drops so default is NORMAL when car is started.
#43
Rennlist Member
One thing about wiring in the switch (If you search PKS or parallel kickdown switch you should be able to find some detailed write ups), in my opinion, is it is really meant for getting sportier automatic shifting - leaving the car in "D". When I had the switch installed, engaged, and tried to manually shift, the tranny would get confused and exhibit some really zany behavior.
#44
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From what I understand, the 4 speed auto can handle 900HP of engine power without breaking. I'm sure towing or manual shifting is not a problem. I've had three 928 autos and I shifted them all the time. I would check the Flex Plate distance at the driveshaft coupler before doing any aggressive driving.
http://members.rennlist.com/v1uhoh/9...earticleTH.pdf
http://members.rennlist.com/v1uhoh/9...earticleTH.pdf
#45
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There's a lot of useful info in this thread, here's another question:
What is the max speed where you can get a 1st-gear kickdown?
What about 2nd gear kickdown?
Mine seems a bit conservative, I'm thinking it should go into 1st at times when it will not.
What is the max speed where you can get a 1st-gear kickdown?
What about 2nd gear kickdown?
Mine seems a bit conservative, I'm thinking it should go into 1st at times when it will not.