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I might just cry (belt tensioner warning)

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Old 11-11-2012, 10:25 AM
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Want to be
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Truthful I'm on a budget, so i really need to be careful on how much i spend. My wife wants the car gone now that it broke down. Thanks on regards to the future parts questions. I will have many!
Old 11-11-2012, 02:28 PM
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Default what is broken?

Does anybody know what is broken?
I am pointing with a laser pointer near the part that appears to have broken.
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Old 11-11-2012, 02:31 PM
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Isnt that where the oil dipstick goes, cannot see anything really broken on the picture.
Can you post a more clear pic?

Cheers
Old 11-11-2012, 02:33 PM
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If you mean the part above where you are pointing, thats the timing belt (de)tensioner. Upgrade to a porkensioner if that one is broken.
Old 11-11-2012, 02:33 PM
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Ok that makes since
Thanks
Old 11-11-2012, 02:34 PM
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In regards to the oil stick
Old 11-11-2012, 03:33 PM
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There may be nothing wrong except a loose belt.
Yes, some of them need do indeed need retensioning with stretch.

Better pictures required.

Economy job is possible but you've got to give more / better info.
Old 11-11-2012, 04:02 PM
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Near that part? Why not on the part??
Old 11-11-2012, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Want to be
Truthful I'm on a budget, so i really need to be careful on how much i spend.
....and there it is.
Old 11-11-2012, 07:09 PM
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Regards what? Belt being replaced? I would put myself in the category of procrastinate not a cheap.
Old 11-11-2012, 10:17 PM
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before you do more troubleshooting please spray down the area with some brake cleaner,
do you see a crack in some part where your shining the laser?
The orange O ring is a seal for the dipstick tube.
If the car bottomed out then its possible that AC mounting parts could be damaged / cracked the engine hitting things is due to two things,
worn motor mounts and a improper ride height setting, this bottoming out can also effect the alternator mount on the girdle of the block
Old 11-12-2012, 02:08 PM
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Great advice, i started cleaning up the surrounding areas to see if any surface cracks arise. Besides getting high in the garage afterwards, i did not see any cracks or problems as of yet. I'll keep my eyes open for now. Had the open the garage...cough .....!

In regards to the pulley which is engaged by the tensionor. The removal of this part calls for a 4mm bit or Allen wrench. I first noticed the bolt was already stripped. Dwayne instructions warned about how soft the allen head was...butter i would assume. I sprayed the back side with pb blaster and let it sit for awhile. I clean up the area and tried to remove it. It would not budge at all and of course the allen head is stripped. I tripped tapping in the allen head and going up a size. No dice.

How do i remove it now? I would assume i need to get a grinder and remove the bolt head?

The tensionor, if i decide to rebuild, how many miles are too many miles on the tensionor i have? It has atleast 240k or more on it.
Old 11-12-2012, 04:05 PM
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Do you have an 3/8 or 1/4 ratchet with a torx bit? Tap it in to remove the screw. If all fails simply drill the head off. Plug the dipstick hole in the pan first.

240k for a tensioner is not too much, age is. The boot should be soft and pliable, yours is probably hard as a rock and broken if it still is original.
Old 11-12-2012, 06:30 PM
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Grind the POS off and put a Pkensioner in there and be done with it :-)
Old 11-12-2012, 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by rexpontius
Grind the POS off and put a Pkensioner in there and be done with it :-)
Stop giving out the same $hitty advice over and over. The factory warning system saved his bacon. Why on Earth would delete it?


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