Want to be

I guess i need to first address the main problem before making a guess about the tensionor had failed. In regards to the notch on the back of the cam. I was able to locate it and found i am off about two teeth.

Currently, I am trying to get all of the belts off. I am having troubles with the alternator belt. I have loosen the tension bolt and the pivot. I can't get her to let go. I have lightly hit the unit with a rubber mallet and nothing.

PorKen

You also have to loosen the lower 17mm nut which holds the tension 'nut' and the 17mm bolt which attaches the tensioning bracket to the PS/alt housing before it will move.

Leon Speed

Right, on the backside of the tension bolt / thingy is a nut you need to loosen.

Imo000

Just cut the alternator belt and get a new one later.

G8RB8

Don't hit the alternator at all. Ironically they are sensitive to shock.

Want to be

today i was able to get off two belts. I wish i had more time to work on the car but i only have about 30 minutes to an hour per day.

anyways , thanks for the help.

ps does anyone know what this tool is from? i found it in the engine bay.

Landseer

End of a torque wrench.

Want to be

Hmmm. This might be my torque wrench part. Wow thank u

Want to be

Rotated to TDC, two full rotations and my car now seems to be on-time. Did the belt skip a few notches while rotating it around. I tried again and it seems the car is on time.

My mechanic friend told me this might be a good time to check compression.

Your thoughts? I might have a notch missing on the belt? Maybe the water pump took a dive?

update:

I just noticed on my very first picture i posted on the cam gear a possible deteriorated belt tooth, shows up on 10 and 11 o'clock position. Hmmmmm

Don't have anymore time to play today, time for my real job.

docmirror

Let's review. You thought you had a belt tension issue at first, and still don't know if that is the case. You need to investigate the tension problem first as you've now determined that your car is timed correctly. You will need a Porsche 9201 tool(expensive, hassle to use) or a Kempf(cheaper, easy to use) to figure out the correct tension.

Call Roger at 928sRUS and have him sell you a Kempf tool. Follow the instructions on that tool, and verify your belt tension. There are several threads here also supporting the use of the tool.

Once you have that done, we can investigate the compression further. You MUST resolve the potential problem of the belt tension first before going further. You can always move the engine around by the crank nut to inspect the belt fully. If it binds, stop and investigate. Do not turn the engine backwards more than one belt tooth or so. A high intensity light is very useful for inspecting the inside of the belt. The outside of the belt shows some modest wear from the pics, but that isn't indicative of a worn belt.

I'm also concerned about the tracking of the belt on the cam gears. This could indicate an issue with the tensioner system and could lead to catastrophic failure if there is a problem with the roller, or tensioner. It will also need to be inspected carefully before running the car again. Faults in the cam belt drive system are critical path issues, do not ignore them at the expense of a rebuilt engine or heads.

Bilal928S4

Docmirror,
You mean a kempf tool to measure belt tension?
I also see that the belt is not tracking properly.

docmirror

Yes - thank you, Kempf tool. Someone around Indy should have one. If not they aren't costly. I was thinking tensioner and wrote Porken, not Kempf.

Since the tracking is off on what appears to be the right side gear it could have some issues with the water pump pulley. The WP is in front of the left gear, and would not affect tracking over there I doubt.

<edited to correct errors.>

Want to be

The orginal owner had provided me a Kempf tool, and the black fly wheel stop plate. Question, what do you mean the tracking is off, right side? Do you mean the belt is off center? If and when i figure out the problem, if i replace the tensioner, does the Porken tensioner allow me to keep the belt sensor light?

I hate to jump the gun but just thnking ahead.

Mongo

I think if there are tracking issues and it's related to the WP pulley it is time to replace the water pump. Is there any way you can get the rest of those covers off so you can see if you can jiggle the water pump pulley? If there is play in it, the bearing is toast.

Imo000

Only the factory tensioner lets you keep the warning light. You need to do a leakdown test and not a compression test.

On my '83 I had the timing belt wondering on me. What happened was that a piece of the plastic timing belt cover wrapped itself around the crank gear. Every time the engine was rotated, the belt wouls slip a little. In a couple of rotation, it would be off a tooth. Had to take the lower belt cover off to see what exactly happened. You might have something like this going on too.