Fender rolling curiosity
#4
Rennlist Member
There is a tool for this job..I have one..but the 'flat' curve of the opening makes it very very hard to use.
The stick isnt under much force..its not a big deal. Seen it done, never done it myself.
The stick isnt under much force..its not a big deal. Seen it done, never done it myself.
#5
Rennlist Member
That's AO and crew, perhaps he will chime in. My main concern would be possibly cracking the paint - particularly on cars without rolled fenders from the factory. Since his GT already has those, he's just further crimping them and flaring somewhat - not as big a deal.
Last edited by JWise; 10-26-2012 at 11:03 PM.
#6
Rennlist Member
Have done it with the both the bat and fender rolling tool. We experimented on a 79 that was totaled. Then we rolled the fenders on the 80 donor car (before paint) with the bat and it worked out great. Start with the small end of the bat and work your way up. Note that we did this before the 80 was sent in for paint. Might want to heat up the painted area a bit to prevent cracking, but it still might. T
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#8
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The goal isn't to "flare" the fenders, but to make room for wider tires. In some cases you only need a few millimeters, and a job well done won't look different from stock to anyone except a 928 expert.
#9
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OK the video named was referring to a flare, so I understand..still seemed a close tolerance due to wheel size and suspension compression.
#11
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With the rear travel about 2.5 inches up, rolled or not, hitting a bump will destroy the tires. So what is the advantage again??
#12
Team Owner
FWIW on a 928 rear wheel when the chassis is set at normal ride height, the top of the rear wheel will go up and inwards toward the inner fenderwell,
IOW the wheel doesnt go straight up when its compressed.
SO if you have about 5mm of clearance between the tire and the fender lip when the car is sitting you should not have any clearance issues,
unless the wheel package is too close to the inner fender,
then the tire can rub on the inside,
this can happen when one wheel might go over say the curb of a driveway.
The idea with moving the tire wheel assembly out is to fill the fenderwell and add some stability to the track as a wider track is more stable than a more narrow track..
The main reason the 928 rear wheels have the sucked in look of the factory wheel tire package is to permit the use of tire chains without damage to the fender.
We cure the sucked in look by adding wheel spacers in conjunction with lower offset wheels and or wider wheels and tires,
This since most of the owners wont ever be putting on tire chains.
IOW the wheel doesnt go straight up when its compressed.
SO if you have about 5mm of clearance between the tire and the fender lip when the car is sitting you should not have any clearance issues,
unless the wheel package is too close to the inner fender,
then the tire can rub on the inside,
this can happen when one wheel might go over say the curb of a driveway.
The idea with moving the tire wheel assembly out is to fill the fenderwell and add some stability to the track as a wider track is more stable than a more narrow track..
The main reason the 928 rear wheels have the sucked in look of the factory wheel tire package is to permit the use of tire chains without damage to the fender.
We cure the sucked in look by adding wheel spacers in conjunction with lower offset wheels and or wider wheels and tires,
This since most of the owners wont ever be putting on tire chains.
#13
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#14
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FWIW on a 928 rear wheel when the chassis is set at normal ride height, the top of the rear wheel will go up and inwards toward the inner fenderwell,
IOW the wheel doesnt go straight up when its compressed.
SO if you have about 5mm of clearance between the tire and the fender lip when the car is sitting you should not have any clearance issues,
unless the wheel package is too close to the inner fender,
then the tire can rub on the inside,
this can happen when one wheel might go over say the curb of a driveway.
The idea with moving the tire wheel assembly out is to fill the fenderwell and add some stability to the track as a wider track is more stable than a more narrow track..
The main reason the 928 rear wheels have the sucked in look of the factory wheel tire package is to permit the use of tire chains without damage to the fender.
We cure the sucked in look by adding wheel spacers in conjunction with lower offset wheels and or wider wheels and tires,
This since most of the owners wont ever be putting on tire chains.
IOW the wheel doesnt go straight up when its compressed.
SO if you have about 5mm of clearance between the tire and the fender lip when the car is sitting you should not have any clearance issues,
unless the wheel package is too close to the inner fender,
then the tire can rub on the inside,
this can happen when one wheel might go over say the curb of a driveway.
The idea with moving the tire wheel assembly out is to fill the fenderwell and add some stability to the track as a wider track is more stable than a more narrow track..
The main reason the 928 rear wheels have the sucked in look of the factory wheel tire package is to permit the use of tire chains without damage to the fender.
We cure the sucked in look by adding wheel spacers in conjunction with lower offset wheels and or wider wheels and tires,
This since most of the owners wont ever be putting on tire chains.
#15
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I put a set of 18" Cayman wheels with Michelin PS2 tyres on an '89S4.
The new tyres at the rear are nicely wider, but way taller than the various recommendations - about 7% greater diameter IIRC. Since this nicely corrects the 7% low reading from the speedometer, I was not unduly fussed.
I had minor rubbing on the LEFT REAR ONLY - and used the bat approach to fold the edge a little while I waited for the Eastwood tool to arrive. It worked fine, and that tyre hasn't rubbed since, even when climbing kerbs onto a verge to park.
The (wooden) bat didn't survive the experience unscathed, but the forces on my arms were not that high.
The new tyres at the rear are nicely wider, but way taller than the various recommendations - about 7% greater diameter IIRC. Since this nicely corrects the 7% low reading from the speedometer, I was not unduly fussed.
I had minor rubbing on the LEFT REAR ONLY - and used the bat approach to fold the edge a little while I waited for the Eastwood tool to arrive. It worked fine, and that tyre hasn't rubbed since, even when climbing kerbs onto a verge to park.
The (wooden) bat didn't survive the experience unscathed, but the forces on my arms were not that high.