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Fender rolling curiosity

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Old 10-26-2012, 09:52 PM
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Kalspeed
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Default Fender rolling curiosity

Saw this video and was wondering if this is the normal procedure, seems a bit bizarre

Old 10-26-2012, 10:02 PM
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Speedtoys
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Thats one way...ive seen fab results that way.
Old 10-26-2012, 10:23 PM
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What are other options,,seems a bit risky to the baton holder there
Old 10-26-2012, 10:29 PM
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Speedtoys
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There is a tool for this job..I have one..but the 'flat' curve of the opening makes it very very hard to use.

The stick isnt under much force..its not a big deal. Seen it done, never done it myself.
Old 10-26-2012, 10:47 PM
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JWise
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That's AO and crew, perhaps he will chime in. My main concern would be possibly cracking the paint - particularly on cars without rolled fenders from the factory. Since his GT already has those, he's just further crimping them and flaring somewhat - not as big a deal.

Last edited by JWise; 10-26-2012 at 11:03 PM.
Old 10-26-2012, 10:56 PM
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77tony
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Have done it with the both the bat and fender rolling tool. We experimented on a 79 that was totaled. Then we rolled the fenders on the 80 donor car (before paint) with the bat and it worked out great. Start with the small end of the bat and work your way up. Note that we did this before the 80 was sent in for paint. Might want to heat up the painted area a bit to prevent cracking, but it still might. T
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Old 10-26-2012, 11:22 PM
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Kalspeed
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I didn't really notice a flare being created in that video. Were they only compressing the inner lip to accept thaose wheel/tires?
Old 10-26-2012, 11:40 PM
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hacker-pschorr
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Originally Posted by Kalspeed
I didn't really notice a flare being created in that video. Were they only compressing the inner lip to accept thaose wheel/tires?
The goal isn't to "flare" the fenders, but to make room for wider tires. In some cases you only need a few millimeters, and a job well done won't look different from stock to anyone except a 928 expert.
Old 10-26-2012, 11:57 PM
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OK the video named was referring to a flare, so I understand..still seemed a close tolerance due to wheel size and suspension compression.
Old 10-27-2012, 12:12 AM
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928porschemangreg
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With the rear travel about 2.5 inches up, rolled or not, hitting a bump will destroy the tires. So what is the advantage again??
Old 10-27-2012, 12:44 AM
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Jim M.
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With the rear travel about 2.5 inches up, rolled or not, hitting a bump will destroy the tires. So what is the advantage again??
When the rear compresses the top of the wheel goes in so it won't destroy the tire. Been done on many 928's with no tire damage.
Old 10-27-2012, 12:51 AM
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Mrmerlin
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FWIW on a 928 rear wheel when the chassis is set at normal ride height, the top of the rear wheel will go up and inwards toward the inner fenderwell,
IOW the wheel doesnt go straight up when its compressed.

SO if you have about 5mm of clearance between the tire and the fender lip when the car is sitting you should not have any clearance issues,
unless the wheel package is too close to the inner fender,
then the tire can rub on the inside,
this can happen when one wheel might go over say the curb of a driveway.

The idea with moving the tire wheel assembly out is to fill the fenderwell and add some stability to the track as a wider track is more stable than a more narrow track..

The main reason the 928 rear wheels have the sucked in look of the factory wheel tire package is to permit the use of tire chains without damage to the fender.

We cure the sucked in look by adding wheel spacers in conjunction with lower offset wheels and or wider wheels and tires,
This since most of the owners wont ever be putting on tire chains.
Old 10-27-2012, 12:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Jim M.
When the rear compresses the top of the wheel goes in so it won't destroy the tire. Been done on many 928's with no tire damage.
Based on the angle of the shock mounts? and rear geometry? What about small bumps on a road where many 928 owners drive around the block?
Old 10-27-2012, 01:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Mrmerlin
FWIW on a 928 rear wheel when the chassis is set at normal ride height, the top of the rear wheel will go up and inwards toward the inner fenderwell,
IOW the wheel doesnt go straight up when its compressed.

SO if you have about 5mm of clearance between the tire and the fender lip when the car is sitting you should not have any clearance issues,
unless the wheel package is too close to the inner fender,
then the tire can rub on the inside,
this can happen when one wheel might go over say the curb of a driveway.

The idea with moving the tire wheel assembly out is to fill the fenderwell and add some stability to the track as a wider track is more stable than a more narrow track..

The main reason the 928 rear wheels have the sucked in look of the factory wheel tire package is to permit the use of tire chains without damage to the fender.

We cure the sucked in look by adding wheel spacers in conjunction with lower offset wheels and or wider wheels and tires,
This since most of the owners wont ever be putting on tire chains.
Thanks Stan..well explained.....
Old 10-27-2012, 01:52 AM
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I put a set of 18" Cayman wheels with Michelin PS2 tyres on an '89S4.

The new tyres at the rear are nicely wider, but way taller than the various recommendations - about 7% greater diameter IIRC. Since this nicely corrects the 7% low reading from the speedometer, I was not unduly fussed.

I had minor rubbing on the LEFT REAR ONLY - and used the bat approach to fold the edge a little while I waited for the Eastwood tool to arrive. It worked fine, and that tyre hasn't rubbed since, even when climbing kerbs onto a verge to park.

The (wooden) bat didn't survive the experience unscathed, but the forces on my arms were not that high.


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