AirtekHVAC

Ok, guys, need some input here....#30 been sitting for 2 weeks. Got new wires, cap, and rotor from Brian (medipedicman-thanks bro!)

Put new plugs, new wires, new cap, new rotor...she started on the first crank, like she was not afraid....running pretty smooth, with a slight miss, not bad tho' ...I let her warm up about 5min, then tried to accelerate....she stumbles like she wants to shut off...if I slowly accelerate, she will get up to about 2000 rpm, and then want to choke out..., so, at idle, I adjusted the screw on the fuel distributor counter-clockwise, a little at a time, until she just died. I then adjusted clockwise, a little at a time, until she started back up, then kept going clockwise, ever so slightly, until I could rev her up, slow or fast, with no limit. Pushed her up to 3500rpm.

The problem: instantly, the odor came back...smells like she is burning mega rich, burns my eyes! Also, the idle is now much rougher, but runs silly smooth at higher RPM's...( she also backfires a little at lower RPM's when I ramp up, or quickly let off throttle) so, my thought is fuel distributor needs to be gone through????

INPUT PLEASE!!!!

Thanks!

AirtekHVAC

Ok, I played around some more today, started backing off in 1/8 increments, let it idle a little, then rev it to see the results. It labors or hesitates for a sec, then ramp up to speed. I get the occasional backfire through the air plate at the initial rev, not during acceleration or high idle of about 3500 rpm, really weird. I am about to admit defeat and pull the FD. I guess it was too much to hope that some minute adjustments would cure it. It has been sitting a very long time...,,

On a positive note, I put it in gear and reved her up and watched the speedometer work! Yay. Small victories.,,

Dean_Fuller

Ron...are you sure your timing is dead on?

AirtekHVAC

ya know, funny you say that....I was thinking that just a short while ago....even though there are no signs of any monkey business, who knows what was tweaked 20 years ago....i have not been able to get my tool chests yet, but I need to go get my timing light....might just need a little tweak on the distributor....

Mike LaBranche

Just remember you check timing at 3k rpm.

You're not really going to know where you're at with the tune until you've had it under load. Get it close and drive it with some berrymans for a few tanks, you know... the ol' italian tune-up.

Dean_Fuller

Can you verify the marks on the crank, cam gears are good? Might be off a tooth or 2.

AirtekHVAC

I'll check this out tomorrow!

Sent from my iPhone using Rennlist

The Fixer

you know... the ol' italian tune-up.

never heard of the ol' Italian tune up ??

The problem: instantly, the odor came back...smells like she is burning mega rich, burns my eyes! Also, the idle is now much rougher, but runs silly smooth at higher RPM's...( she also backfires a little at lower RPM's when I ramp up, or quickly let off throttle) so, my thought is fuel distributor needs to be gone through????

Ron, i don't have a CIS equipped car but based on what you are describing,

It sounds like it could be your cold start cycle does no want to end as it should as temps rise.

Again i have very limited CIS knowledge but does your early 28 have a cold start valve?


Good luck Ron

Best,
Matthew Mariani

Mike LaBranche

Ever see Ferris Bueller? The two parking garage guys take the Ferrari out for an 'italian tune-up'.

The Fixer

I remember everything but classic movie lines,
Thanks.

AirtekHVAC

Not much progress here yet....been trying to organize the shop and go through all the stuff I brought over from my (2) storage sheds at the old house....

But, did make a vid:


Methinks I need to bite the bullet and pull the FD...although she seems to run better the more I play with her....

tailpipe

Nope I would be looking more at the WUR I think the FD is fine. Its sounds like its running to lean and usually that is a restriction in the WUR your warm pressure is to high. I usually shoot for 45-50 psi at warm that should get you in the ballpark and on the road. Once you get some miles on it you can go back and up it again to lean it out and get some better mileage... just get it close for now until your ready to start driving. Don`t worry about getting it perfect till you start driving it. You have lots to do before you need to worry about this.

AirtekHVAC

Thanks. I have already checked the screen on the WUR, but I have not disassembled it. It runs extremely well if I richen the hell out of it, but it smells so strong, that it burns my eyes. When I lean it out, it runs as if it is missing.

Of course, the flanges where the cat meets the manifold are warped, and it is leaking badly there..that could be a contributing factor to the popping noises you hear in the video. It seems to run better the more I start and play with it..so, it might be "degumming" itself some....

Been working on spreading rock and gravel, and prepping and seeding my yard, so have not had much time with the car as of late...gonna work on some of the other stuff soon, so I can drive her to get the muffler welded on and a Y pipe in place of the cat....

Harvey928

Keep up the good work Ron. Are you thinking about going to the Charlotte gathering tomorrow at Salsarita's?

Harvey

tailpipe

Ron I have found that until you start driving that car the set up of the WUR ,idle speed and idle mixture screw is very hard to figure out. It is almost like it is always changing... The screw on the fuel dis is only for setting up the mixture at idle. I suspect that a lot of the changes have to do with air getting in the system from not having a lot of fuel in the tank. I have also ran into problems with leaving the pump hanging under the car and having the feed hose pinch itself off. I have also had problems with the feed tube itself coming apart inside and choking the fuel going to the pump. I usually always replace this hose...Then there was the time that I worked for 3 days trying to figure out what was wrong with one car and it ended up the car was out of gas.. you can't always trust the gas gage it may not be working right either.. It usually takes over 5 gallons to make the needle move....It will run ok don't get discouraged....